Rep Power: 201

I have reset my light a couple times and the code 1-1 comes back. It is an open in the drivers airbag module. I know how to get it off and ohm it, just wondered if anyone else had the same trouble? I just got the airbag recall last summer after I rebuilt the trans and could drive it to st louis. Any correlations from you all with srs probs after the recall? (The airbag inflator one of course)

 
Rep Power: 201

And I have the low output meter and such to work on it, but it still scares the crap out of me to work on airbags.
I used to work and a Chevy dealer and we had a body shop. When a car came in with an undeployed airbag we had to rid the explosiveness to trash them. It was shop entertainment with 20 feet of wire and a 9 volt battery... Needless to say they are violent. Just an airbag sitting in the lot by itself and set off went 10 to 20 feet in the air. Would rather not have that in my face unless it is to stop me from dying in a wreck or something.

 
Rep Power: 367

i would seriously consider taking it back to the dealer and have them deal with it, espacially if they just serviced it... yours might not have the shrapnel anymore, but it would be hard if it deploys...

 
Rep Power: 201

They are 70 miles away and it has been well over a year since the update. I have done my own wrenching on everything for the last 15 years. I am pretty sure I have saved myself atleast $5-10k in repairs over that time. Not to mention the several vehicles I have fixed and resold for prophit that is +$ The code is for the driver's bag, but didn't know if the bag itself or the clockspring was more likely. I haven't had time to check it out. The intermittency (word?) of the light tells me it probably is the clockspring.... Not to change the subject, but where you from in TN? My step-brother and his family just moved to VA for a job for him, had to drive through a big part of it....

 
Rep Power: 367

ah, i am in nashville
g'luck on the diagnosing

 
Rep Power: 201

Back at this thing, still broke too, so not into throwing parts at it. After resetting the light so many times I lost count wondering if anyone knows any more ideas. Took the module off and ohmed it. The stage 1 and 2 sides both ohm around 2.5 ohms, which as my manual shows should be ok. Trying to trace down wires to diagnose further. The airbag goes to the srs module via the clock spring. As intermittent as the light is, there is a high likely hood that it is the culprit. How do I test from say the drivers side airbag connector to the connecter towards the floor and under the kick panel, then from it to the module? I know how to run an ohm meter, just looking for a wiring diagram w/ connector pinouts mainly.

 
Rep Power: 201

Also it should be noted I have a diagram from some civic manual I got off some link here a couple years ago, but it shows only a one stage airbag, ie only 2 wires, mine has 4

 
Rep Power: 186

This is the only diagram I have. Probably the same since you said you have four wires. This is for a 4 door.

 
Rep Power: 186

BTW, it sounds like if you think the airbag is ok, then it's either wiring or the SRS unit itself.

 
Rep Power: 201

Ya it is, thanks though. I ran out of time of course, got disgusted with my idiotic pace of life and reset it and put it back together. I took the airbag and the column shrouds off and was able to test the clock spring. I honestly think that is where the problem is, but want to be sure before I buy any parts. Had the console out so I could get to the srs unit and wires and couldn't find the right wires to back probe for a ohms test. The clock spring has less than 1 ohm of resistance in all 4 wires, but two of them have twice what the others do. Just not completely confident in my ohmmeter leads to be that accurate....

 
Rep Power: 518

This is absolutely critical for this sort of work where a single ohm can mean the difference between good and fail.

Last check in the trouble tree, C&P:
Check resistance between the No. 7 and No. 16 terminals and between the No. 6 and No. 15 terminals of SRS unit connector A (18P). There should be 2.0-3.0 ohms.


Is the code random or consistent?



Miracle: Stabilant 22/22A. Apply liberally to every terminal in every last connection in the circuit.

And yank the airbag and see if one of the two squib connectors could be the culprit. (IF they will unplug, I THINK they will but not positive.) Apply the stabilant there too.

Simulator tool uses 2 ohm resistor. Basically you insert this in place of each connection, work your way from airbag to control unit. See when the problem goes away.

I can count on one hand all the Honda clocksprings (cable reels) I remember replacing here in the last 9 years.

But I have the memory of a goldfish.

 
Rep Power: 186

Consistent

 
Rep Power: 201

LOL consistent over time yes, but random on a daily basis. IE I reset it last night then commuted an hour this morning to follow an icu nurse and back home tonight. The light is still not on. That is how it is though. It may come on tomorrow or it may not come one for a week, that is what led me to think clockspring, every time you turn the wheel the contacts relocate themselves.

 
Rep Power: 518

So you have something in the circuit that is intermittently losing contact. Should be one of the connections causing it.

The guts of the clockspring are just one long continuous strip of milti-circuit ribbon type cable. Seriously doubt you are gonna find a problem inside it.

I'd get the Stabilant and apply it to every SRS connection in the steering column and wheel (bag).
JMO, YMMV

 
Rep Power: 201

Thanks ezone, I thought they were contacts on a circular pad, good to know. In reference the connectors on the back of the bag I don't think come out. Or I'm not ballsy enough to force them out anyway. Gonna go after it with some di-electric tomorrow.

 
Rep Power: 518

Dude, it is NOT Dielectric. That won't solve your problem.

http://stabilant.com/sizes01h.htm



I got mine from a local NAPA. I know you can get it through several parts stores, but you may have to TELL them. Many have no idea this stuff exists.

Check websites.


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FWIW, Benz was the only company I know of that used sliding contacts (like slip ring contacts for a horn) on their driver airbags, mid-late 80s. Very problematic.

 
Rep Power: 518

What is Stabilant 22?

Stabilant 22 is an initially non-conductive amorphous-semiconductive block polymer that when used in thin films within contacts acts under the effect of the electrical field and switches to a conductive state. The electric field gradient at which this occurs is established is during its manufacture so that the material will remain non-conductiveThus, when applied to electromechanical contacts, Stabilant 22 provides the connection reliability of a soldered joint without bonding the contacting surfaces together!






Are the Stabilants reliable?

Stabilant 22, Stabilant 22A, and Stabilant 22E are used in electronics where equipment failure can cost lives; equipment such as biomedical electronics in hospitals, as well as aircraft navigation and instrument landing systems.




Is Stabilant just another contact cleaner?

http://www.stabilant.com/techt02h.htm

 
Rep Power: 201

I would be included in those guys. I haven't ever heard of it either.

As for the construction of them was just guessing honestly, never had one apart....

 
Rep Power: 201

Doubt you really care anymore, but repped ya ezone. Since the last reset it hasn't been on and it has been like 600 miles and a week or two. The only thing I did different this time is took the column shrouds and center console out and unhooked and reconnected a couple connectors during trying to diagnose it. Good chance you hit it right on with "connectors will be the prob."

 
Rep Power: 367

connectors... good to know you apparently got it going now

 
Rep Power: 518

Thanx, yo.

Sounds like ONE of those was the culprit. If you had rechecked the SRS light and/or code after each connector was disconnected and reconnected, you would have found exactly which one it was...

The "wipe" or "scrape" action of each terminal movement temporarily digs through the microcorrosion and your problem goes away......for a little while. It will most likely happen again in the near future.
It only takes a single ohm of extra resistance to set an SRS code. The microcorrosion adds that resistance.

Stabilant is a miracle, situations like this is where I use it the most.

I have seen the same problems and used the Stabilant in far more than just Hondas. GM, Mopar, Ford, etc....Hyundai actually recommends it, I'm surprised Honda hasn't figured it out yet.


HTH