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Trying to diagnose a no start issue and Im fairly certain its a fuel delivery issue. I do not have access to a pressure gauge, but when I remove the line just before the rail, the flow seems weak. Fuel flows, but not with much power behind it. Should it be shooting out with force or just flowing?
On to my actual question. I know my fuel pump is good and i just replace the top half of the assembly (which contains filter). When i take a voltometer to the electrical connector (unplugged) I get 0v at OFF and 11.6v ON (from pump connectors) The level gauge side however, reads 11.6 whether the key is on or not. It never reads 0. Is this normal?

 
Rep Power: 518

when I remove the line just before the rail, the flow seems weak. Fuel flows, but not with much power behind it. Should it be shooting out with force or just flowing?

Well, it has to have the pump powered up in order for there to be any flow at all.
A pressure gauge is just about the only reliable way to check pressure.

Wait up... Check the video here, it's Bubbas Teknikal Tips. This covers your question and many more. http://www.lindertech.com/bubbasgarage.htm


I know my fuel pump is good and i just replace the top half of the assembly (which contains filter).

Has the car run SINCE you did this work?
Last time you posted about this, a month ago....still sounds like you haven't got it to run.

If it hasn't been able to run only since you did this work, then I have to assume that is where your problem is. Did you leave out some O ring seal?

What happened to the fuel pressure gauge you said you had back then?
What happened with the F.P. relay?


The level gauge side however, reads 11.6 whether the key is on or not. It never reads 0. Is this normal?

It'll read 0 when the battery dies.

Ok, what do you have your voltmeter connected to?

 
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I had an extended business trip the last 4 weeks, so i actually am just getting back to it. The pressure gauge was borrowed from a friends cousin. Trying to get it from him again, but havent been able to talk to him yet. pump relay is working correctly now. and when i said the fuel flows out, I forgot to mention i had someone cycling between on and off to turn on pump for the 3 seconds.
The connector for the fuel pump has 4 wires- 2 for pump and 2 for level gauge. Connected voltometer to pwr and grd for the gauge. Always energized. If i connect to pwr and grd for pump, its reads 0, then 11.6 for 3 seconds after key is turned to ON, then 0, and then back to 11.6 again when cranking.

 
Rep Power: 518

If the gauge wasn't a problem before, don't worry about it yet.


On the pump:
You ever stick your thumb over the end of a garden hose so it will spray real far?
Think about why I would ask that, in relation to your statement:
You can have volume without significant pressure, you can have pressure without significant volume. You really should have it all hooked up and have a gauge on it to test.
Asking how far it should squirt is irrelevant, and sounds dirty.

LOL

 
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Hah yea I'll probably end up just going and buying a gauge tomorrow. But put everything back together and it fired right up. Revved it to 3k and held it just like idle learn says, let off, it held It's idle. Bout 5 mins later stumbled and cut out. So I'm gonna look for vacuum leaks. Might end up not needing the gauge after all.

 
Rep Power: 518

Um, you have to let it idle for 5 minutes (with no electrical loads) to learn. It can't learn how to idle while it is running at 3000RPM.


Maybe it is just the way you typed it.

 
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Actually even my manual is telling me hold at 3k till car hits normal operating temp, then let off and let it do idle learn. I double checked to make sure cause I was doing it the opposite way and it would cut out everytime.

 
Rep Power: 518

Actually even my manual is telling me hold at 3k till car hits normal operating temp,

Right,



then let off and let it do idle learn.

Ok, just checking-- since the other post sounded like you skipped this step.