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I'm about the change the cam belt and water pump in my civic ep2 (European) with 89k miles on the clock (d16v1 engine). But I have a few questions:

- Why do I need to set piston 1 to TDC? If I'm really careful and do not move anything when replacing the belt it should be exactly the same right?

- Instead of the TDC method, I've seen people put their own mark on the belt and the cam and crank shaft sprockets then transferring the belt marks to the new belt and aligning the new belt to the marks.

- Im my Haynes manual it says remove the starter and stick a screwdriver in one of the holes to jam the flywheel. Does this method work?

Thanks, any other tips and warnings would be appreciated.

 
Rep Power: 518

- Why do I need to set piston 1 to TDC? If I'm really careful and do not move anything when replacing the belt it should be exactly the same right?


Do you have some huge problem with following simple instructions?

What if the belt is "out of time" already? You are going to reinstall a brand new belt the same wrong way the old one was.

How would any smart person know if it was out of time?


- Instead of the TDC method, I've seen people put their own mark on the belt and the cam and crank shaft sprockets then transferring the belt marks to the new belt and aligning the new belt to the marks.


There are timing marks already scribed on the gears from the factory. They will line up with other points or marks on the block, oil pump, or head when the crank is at #1TDC.

If you don't have the crank and cam at TDC when you pull the belt off, valve spring pressure can cause the cam to turn to a new position, and you really don't need this to happen.
These engines bend valves when the cam/crank are out of time too far.


- Im my Haynes manual it says remove the starter and stick a screwdriver in one of the holes to jam the flywheel. Does this method work?

Aaaaaand what part is this related to?What step is this on? What part is being disassembled when the "book" says to do this?


Thanks, any other tips and warnings would be appreciated.

 
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I've never turned the crank manually before so it all seems a bit scary.

The book says put a screwdriver into one of the holes so it locks the flywheel against the screw driver and flywheel teeth, so the crankshaft doesn't move. Easy alternative to a flywheel lock.

Is it safe to freely rotate the crankshaft while the belt is still on? Does it have to be in a specific direction?

 
Rep Power: 367

read the stickies and DIY threads on the site.
not gonna say everything again, it's in there for who searches.

 
Rep Power: 518

Why does your book say to do this?
I can only think of one reason (maybe two), and I want to know what your book says.

 
Rep Power: 253

So the crankshaft dont spin when your removing the bolt is my guess.

They actually make a tool for this, look into it. Probably a better way and safter way.
If you have a good impact and a good compressor, maybe a oxy/set torch thats your best bet.

"Is it safe to freely rotate the crankshaft while the belt is still on? Does it have to be in a specific direction?"

How else do you expect to get the piston at TDC and all the marks to line up before you remove the belt?