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Good thread, very informative. My GF's son's car we just got has the dreaded oil pump leak as well, but we were going to do the timing belt anyway, so it just adds to the fun. Is there any reason why we DON'T want to replace every oil seal we can while we are in there? Cam, crank, etc. I certainly don't want to do this job again a year from now because we accidentally cut a corner.
Absolutely IMO. Renew/reseal everything you touch if at all possible.
"There's never enough time to do it right the first time, but there's always plenty of time to do it over."
Hey everyone. So I'm having having the same oil leak problem due to the oil pump o ring. I have replaced all the seals and under the timing cover and oil pan gasket so I know for a fact it's coming from that o ring. My question is how does the oil pump come out? I've removed the 5 bolts holding it in. So do I just need to pry it off the block or is there something else that I'm missing? Crank pulley and seal are already out and oil pan in dropped.
Hey everyone. So I'm having having the same oil leak problem due to the oil pump o ring. I have replaced all the seals and under the timing cover and oil pan gasket so I know for a fact it's coming from that o ring. My question is how does the oil pump come out? I've removed the 5 bolts holding it in. So do I just need to pry it off the block or is there something else that I'm missing? Crank pulley and seal are already out and oil pan in dropped.
Did you find the pics I posted from an oil pump reseal job?
just for kicks I tried AT-205 to see if it would have any effect on my oil pump O ring leak. Holy crap it worked (at least for now). If you have this leak give it a try.
As prone to clogged oil control rings as these engines are, I would highly suggest against any additives including high mileage oils...
I used to see the pump o ring issue progression timeline.... the rubber in the o ring slowly deteriorates over a period of time (miles) and the rate of oil leakage slooowly increases as it does
.from stain to wet area to occasional drip on the garage floor to maybe a slow drip while running
(wildass guess) as
stained to moist, low concern: 120k and above
wet to drip ..150-200k or more
The original owner could've already had to buy too many major repairs (sometimes in rapid succession) like
gauge cluster
transmission
timing belt service followed immediately by the mysterious 'not our fault' loose alternator bolt induced PCM failure
head gasket job plus radiator
the ol' ignition lock and key and omfg another pcm fiasco.
Figuring out why 15 seconds after startup and try to drive away it falls on its face
Brake lines in the rust belt
plus bags of money wasted on unnecessary 'repairs' based on guesswork and/or incorrect diagnosis
and 2-6 airbag recalls
Now it drinks oil and this cost how much ? oh haaiiiillll no.
installing the $3 o ring in the oil pump is not cheap or easy.
The only way i can make that job sound cheaper is when the engine is already hurt.... by adding it to a major like a head gasket job or a re-ring job. And those ain't cheap.
By the time it leaks so fast it can't be ignored, some of the cars are so rough it already has one tire in the junkyard
Some cars are not worth fixing correctly, Some owners won't. Or can't.
At this point a can of leak-b-gone (smoke-b-gone, knock-b-gone, etc) is probably better than nothing.
05-10-2017
