New to the site and need some serious help on my 2001 door locks.
For every sprinkle I find, I shall kill you.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 0
From: York, Pennsylvania
Rep Power: 282 










More than likely you will have to take out the entire assembly as shown in StreetGlowers DIY to start the attemp at replacing them. I could be 100% wrong about this, but it's better to go planning on taking it out rather than getting there and being screwed. So printint it out might be a plus. Good luck, let us know how it goes. I'm hoping you figure this out so i can fix mine too! +1 For giving it shot!
I just got home and they were on the step but the right one had busted tabs
Hopefully I can send it back to Majestic Monday since I tried calling and they were closed. Anyone want to see what JUST the actuator looks like? I can get pics.
In looking at it I see what looks like two connection ports for the wires, what appears to be two tabs for possibly connecting to the lock assembly and the drive mechanism. This thing is pretty darn simple! Just a powered gear assembly with a plastic drive coupling on it. Oh.... maybe one screw goes into it too. I will go back now and look at the DIY and see if it makes sense. If it does then I will try to label the actuator the way I think it will go. I will tackle the one good actuator side (Left) tomorrow.
Hopefully I can send it back to Majestic Monday since I tried calling and they were closed. Anyone want to see what JUST the actuator looks like? I can get pics.In looking at it I see what looks like two connection ports for the wires, what appears to be two tabs for possibly connecting to the lock assembly and the drive mechanism. This thing is pretty darn simple! Just a powered gear assembly with a plastic drive coupling on it. Oh.... maybe one screw goes into it too. I will go back now and look at the DIY and see if it makes sense. If it does then I will try to label the actuator the way I think it will go. I will tackle the one good actuator side (Left) tomorrow.
Being an Equipment Technician I guess I am up for the challenge
Let's start with the end connections pictured. Looks to be simply one two pin and one three pin connectors plug onto these. More than likely the three pin is power and the two pin is control.
Let's start with the end connections pictured. Looks to be simply one two pin and one three pin connectors plug onto these. More than likely the three pin is power and the two pin is control.
Last edited by Intercooler; Mar 24, 2006 at 05:27 PM.
Here is the rear or back face of the actuator. On it is one raised circular locating dowel that the metal plate in the picture goes over. It is smooth on the edges so it appears to me just using a small flathead screwdriver to raise the metal a little will release it. It also has a another very small locating dowel that more than likely aligns or holds the actuator to the door rather than the lock mechanism.
Last edited by Intercooler; Mar 24, 2006 at 09:07 PM.
Here is the front face. This will snap down into the lock assembly with the two black snap-lock tabs and the two locating dowels. Make sure the door lock actuator (White semi-rectangle piece) is positioned correctly.
One down
and one to go when I get a replacement for the one busted in shipment
Upon applying power I now have a driver's door lock that works
I pretty much got everything right except these couple of details I didn't have yesterday without being in there:
- In that last picture the cable going to the door lock in the door panel is out. You have to remove it from the lock mechanism on the metal bracket before you can remove the actuator.
- One screw through the metal plate going into the actuator.
- In the center of the metal plate is a like four sided snap-style retainer that you have to use needle nose pliers on to get the metal plate off.
Other than that I got it right and it was cake.
How come Honda used a stinking piece of plastic on the door lock in the door panel? Mine was broke. We glued it back together but my audio shop guy said he thought the replacements were metal.
and one to go when I get a replacement for the one busted in shipment
Upon applying power I now have a driver's door lock that works
I pretty much got everything right except these couple of details I didn't have yesterday without being in there:- In that last picture the cable going to the door lock in the door panel is out. You have to remove it from the lock mechanism on the metal bracket before you can remove the actuator.
- One screw through the metal plate going into the actuator.
- In the center of the metal plate is a like four sided snap-style retainer that you have to use needle nose pliers on to get the metal plate off.
Other than that I got it right and it was cake.
How come Honda used a stinking piece of plastic on the door lock in the door panel? Mine was broke. We glued it back together but my audio shop guy said he thought the replacements were metal.
For every sprinkle I find, I shall kill you.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 0
From: York, Pennsylvania
Rep Power: 282 










Good job! Now I have to do this. You just saved me alot of money. 2000 points to you. Another 2000 can be yours if you make a new thread with the whole DIY so I can sticky.
Got my right side replacement today. Hope to have it in tomorrow and hopefully.... will have both doors working again 
Done! Fully functional locks for less than $50.00.

Done! Fully functional locks for less than $50.00.
Last edited by Intercooler; Apr 1, 2006 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
man, my passenger door just crapped out on me too. i noticed that the lock tries to lock/unlock when i use my alarm to arm/disarm it. it wiggles and then it just does nothing, so i'm hoping it is just an actuator problem. well, i'll look into this and hopefully the DIY helps.
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