2008 Civic LX Won't Start
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2008 Civic LX Won't Start Hello, everyone.
I am new to the forums. I've had this problem a couple of times before. Both times it happened when my girlfriend was using the car to listen to music or charge our phones when camping. This time I'm told the brights were left on for 3 hours, and it won't start. Each time it was resolved by getting a boost, but this time it won't be an option until the AM and I may have to actually pay for a boost.
I'm hoping not to get taken advantage of by a mechanic or the dealership so it'd be great if anyone could shed light on what the specific problem might be or the best way to handle it.
The lights in the dash and the headlamps/brights work just fine, but the car won't start. I'm sure another boost would do the trick, but is this indicative of some greater problem with the car?
I bought it used in 2013 and otherwise, it's been rock solid!
Thanks in advance.
I am new to the forums. I've had this problem a couple of times before. Both times it happened when my girlfriend was using the car to listen to music or charge our phones when camping. This time I'm told the brights were left on for 3 hours, and it won't start. Each time it was resolved by getting a boost, but this time it won't be an option until the AM and I may have to actually pay for a boost.
I'm hoping not to get taken advantage of by a mechanic or the dealership so it'd be great if anyone could shed light on what the specific problem might be or the best way to handle it.
The lights in the dash and the headlamps/brights work just fine, but the car won't start. I'm sure another boost would do the trick, but is this indicative of some greater problem with the car?
I bought it used in 2013 and otherwise, it's been rock solid!
Thanks in advance.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: 2008 Civic LX Won't Start
The lights in the dash and the headlamps/brights work just fine, but the car won't start.
Auto trans: Put the shifter in neutral and try cranking it?
Manual trans: Pull the floormats out from under the clutch pedal and crank it?
Cable connections on the positive battery post clean and tight?
Starter not engaging.....may need a starter?
Twist the key 200 times, maybe it's got one last start left in it....
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35+ Years Driving Japanese Autos
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The batteries are pretty light duty, & key at II draws a good chunk. Charge will drop quicker then you think.
If you deep cycle it a couple times it could kill it.
If you deep cycle it a couple times it could kill it.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Is it just a single click?
Thats what my 2006 sounded like when the starter went bad...
Lights and all were good, but turn the key and it was a click with nothing happening on the engine.
Supposedly you can sometimes get one last start out of it by giving the starter a wack with something hard. I tried, but it didn't work for me...worth a shot though, I had to spend $80 for towing.
Thats what my 2006 sounded like when the starter went bad...
Lights and all were good, but turn the key and it was a click with nothing happening on the engine.
Supposedly you can sometimes get one last start out of it by giving the starter a wack with something hard. I tried, but it didn't work for me...worth a shot though, I had to spend $80 for towing.
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Learned that first hand...
Was planning on trying to replace it myself when it went.
As soon as I found the thing I realized it was not the job for me lol.
(I was able to hit it by crawling underneath and using the bar for the jack)
Didn't end up doing anything though :/
Was planning on trying to replace it myself when it went.
As soon as I found the thing I realized it was not the job for me lol.
(I was able to hit it by crawling underneath and using the bar for the jack)
Didn't end up doing anything though :/
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Go to a shop and get the battery and alternator tested.
or if you have a multimeter test them your self.
the batter should read 11.5-12.5V while shut off, if the alternator is working this will crank up about 2 volts when running in idle. If you start the vehicle and your battery voltage drops, your alternator is most likely toast.
if your battery has a low voltage reading while the ignition is off, it may be your battery or it may be that the charge is so low that it is also showing lower voltage.
Either way if you start it and the battery drops in voltage the alternator is probably your best bet.
or if you have a multimeter test them your self.
the batter should read 11.5-12.5V while shut off, if the alternator is working this will crank up about 2 volts when running in idle. If you start the vehicle and your battery voltage drops, your alternator is most likely toast.
if your battery has a low voltage reading while the ignition is off, it may be your battery or it may be that the charge is so low that it is also showing lower voltage.
Either way if you start it and the battery drops in voltage the alternator is probably your best bet.
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