turbo for d17? please help
05-08-2015
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turbo for d17? please help
I have a 2004 civic lx automatic with a d17. I am having trouble finding a turbo that is compatible. Also can a 1.8l turbo from an Audi or vw fit? Overall I want performance, its naturally aspirated and I'm open to any ideas to make it quicker
05-08-2015
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Re: turbo for d17? please help
Also can a 1.8l turbo from an Audi or vw fit? Overall I want performance, its naturally aspirated and I'm open to any ideas to make it quicker
05-08-2015
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Thank you I appreciate the feedback. As far as piecing one together how should I go about that?
Last edited by GolNat; 05-08-2015 at 02:38 PM. Reason: Fixed quote
05-08-2015
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Re: turbo for d17? please help
The main components you will need:
Turbo
Manifold
Down pipe
Waste gate (unless turbo has an internal one)
Blow off valve
Intercooler with piping
Engine management
Misc oil lines and vacuum hoses.
Have you checked out the turbo info on 7thgen?
Turbo
Manifold
Down pipe
Waste gate (unless turbo has an internal one)
Blow off valve
Intercooler with piping
Engine management
Misc oil lines and vacuum hoses.
Have you checked out the turbo info on 7thgen?
05-08-2015
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Re: turbo for d17? please help
our auto trans is not much long lifed at stock power... consider getting a manual instead
for more turbo information, a few threads above your, you should see the stickies... there's a FAQ turbos right above that you should read before you start asking...
for more turbo information, a few threads above your, you should see the stickies... there's a FAQ turbos right above that you should read before you start asking...
05-08-2015
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Thank you I appreciate it and I read some of those forums but they weren't very helpful in my case I just needed to know exactly what parts I need separately to piece one together.
05-08-2015
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I actually had problems with mine and got it rebuilt
05-11-2015
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Rep Power: 485 Re: turbo for d17? please help
I'm gonna go ahead and step in here.
First off, do a metric crap ton of research. Back in... 2006 (I think), I thought I did enough research to successfully turbo my car. Boy, was I wrong. I bought a kit off of another member, included just about everything I needed for boost. I slapped it in, took it to a shop for tuning, and ended up taking it out a year and a half later.
After you've done your research and understand everything that goes into slapping a turbo on, take a step back and see if it's something you'd like to pursue. Lucky for you, I'm gonna go ahead and insert some of my knowledge here.
1) Tuning is everything. It'll make or break your build. Also, it's not enough to find someone that can tune your car. It's about finding someone that'll tune it properly. I did the former, and just found a shop that would tune my car. They did a crap job and I had to remove the turbo/tuning unit in order to have a car that ran properly.
2) More on tuning, piggyback units are what everyone gets, since they're more cost effective (think $500 for a piggyback unit vs. $1000+ for a standalone). However, with a piggyback, our ecu likes to fight back.
3) Like sdaidoji stated above, the AT doesn't play nice with increases in power. Manual tranny swap or don't do it at all.
4) GolNat has supplied you with a pretty good bare-bones parts list. Additional to that list, you're gonna need higher flow-rate fuel injectors (rsx-s injectors work for low boost).
You might want to look into a higher capacity fuel pump, as well. A popular choice is the Walbro 255lph pump. To take things a step further, you may want to look into a return-style fuel system conversion.
Also, if you end up with a water cooled turbo, you'll need cooling lines tapped off of your engine coolant system. A vacuum manifold is a good idea, as well.
You're gonna need a wideband A/F ratio gauge. They're quite pricey (AEM's runs about $350, if I remember correctly).
Furthermore, you're gonna want to find a way to help your engine cope with the extra heat produced. Higher capacity radiator is good to have. Also, your stock fan(s) probably won't fit with the snail hogging a lot of room. Slim fans and a way to mount them is also good to have. The through-radiator mount system with glorified zip ties works, but it's crap. I know from firsthand experience. I ended up fabbing up bracketry to hold my slim fans on.
The stock MAP sensor hates boost. However, with a standalone fuel management unit, you should be able to keep that check engine light from kicking your car into limp mode.
Beefing up your engine would probably be a good idea, too. At the very least, I'd look into plopping in some ARP head studs.
5) Lucky for you, you have a D17A1 under the hood. Why is that good? It has a lower compression ratio than my VTEC D17A2, which means you can safely run more boost with a stock engine. However, if you want more power, I'd look into swapping in a D17A2 head, since all cams out there are made for the -a2, and not the -a1.
I can't think of anything more to add. As this discussion continues, I can probably think of some, but I'm supposed to be studying viruses right now. lol. If you've looked over all this and decide it's something you'd be committed to, by all means, go for it. Definitely do your research and have a GOOD plan laid out before you think about buying anything.
First off, do a metric crap ton of research. Back in... 2006 (I think), I thought I did enough research to successfully turbo my car. Boy, was I wrong. I bought a kit off of another member, included just about everything I needed for boost. I slapped it in, took it to a shop for tuning, and ended up taking it out a year and a half later.
After you've done your research and understand everything that goes into slapping a turbo on, take a step back and see if it's something you'd like to pursue. Lucky for you, I'm gonna go ahead and insert some of my knowledge here.
1) Tuning is everything. It'll make or break your build. Also, it's not enough to find someone that can tune your car. It's about finding someone that'll tune it properly. I did the former, and just found a shop that would tune my car. They did a crap job and I had to remove the turbo/tuning unit in order to have a car that ran properly.
2) More on tuning, piggyback units are what everyone gets, since they're more cost effective (think $500 for a piggyback unit vs. $1000+ for a standalone). However, with a piggyback, our ecu likes to fight back.
3) Like sdaidoji stated above, the AT doesn't play nice with increases in power. Manual tranny swap or don't do it at all.
4) GolNat has supplied you with a pretty good bare-bones parts list. Additional to that list, you're gonna need higher flow-rate fuel injectors (rsx-s injectors work for low boost).
You might want to look into a higher capacity fuel pump, as well. A popular choice is the Walbro 255lph pump. To take things a step further, you may want to look into a return-style fuel system conversion.
Also, if you end up with a water cooled turbo, you'll need cooling lines tapped off of your engine coolant system. A vacuum manifold is a good idea, as well.
You're gonna need a wideband A/F ratio gauge. They're quite pricey (AEM's runs about $350, if I remember correctly).
Furthermore, you're gonna want to find a way to help your engine cope with the extra heat produced. Higher capacity radiator is good to have. Also, your stock fan(s) probably won't fit with the snail hogging a lot of room. Slim fans and a way to mount them is also good to have. The through-radiator mount system with glorified zip ties works, but it's crap. I know from firsthand experience. I ended up fabbing up bracketry to hold my slim fans on.
The stock MAP sensor hates boost. However, with a standalone fuel management unit, you should be able to keep that check engine light from kicking your car into limp mode.
Beefing up your engine would probably be a good idea, too. At the very least, I'd look into plopping in some ARP head studs.
5) Lucky for you, you have a D17A1 under the hood. Why is that good? It has a lower compression ratio than my VTEC D17A2, which means you can safely run more boost with a stock engine. However, if you want more power, I'd look into swapping in a D17A2 head, since all cams out there are made for the -a2, and not the -a1.
I can't think of anything more to add. As this discussion continues, I can probably think of some, but I'm supposed to be studying viruses right now. lol. If you've looked over all this and decide it's something you'd be committed to, by all means, go for it. Definitely do your research and have a GOOD plan laid out before you think about buying anything.
05-11-2015
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I'm gonna go ahead and step in here.
First off, do a metric crap ton of research. Back in... 2006 (I think), I thought I did enough research to successfully turbo my car. Boy, was I wrong. I bought a kit off of another member, included just about everything I needed for boost. I slapped it in, took it to a shop for tuning, and ended up taking it out a year and a half later.
After you've done your research and understand everything that goes into slapping a turbo on, take a step back and see if it's something you'd like to pursue. Lucky for you, I'm gonna go ahead and insert some of my knowledge here.
1) Tuning is everything. It'll make or break your build. Also, it's not enough to find someone that can tune your car. It's about finding someone that'll tune it properly. I did the former, and just found a shop that would tune my car. They did a crap job and I had to remove the turbo/tuning unit in order to have a car that ran properly.
2) More on tuning, piggyback units are what everyone gets, since they're more cost effective (think $500 for a piggyback unit vs. $1000+ for a standalone). However, with a piggyback, our ecu likes to fight back.
3) Like sdaidoji stated above, the AT doesn't play nice with increases in power. Manual tranny swap or don't do it at all.
4) GolNat has supplied you with a pretty good bare-bones parts list. Additional to that list, you're gonna need higher flow-rate fuel injectors (rsx-s injectors work for low boost).
You might want to look into a higher capacity fuel pump, as well. A popular choice is the Walbro 255lph pump. To take things a step further, you may want to look into a return-style fuel system conversion.
Also, if you end up with a water cooled turbo, you'll need cooling lines tapped off of your engine coolant system. A vacuum manifold is a good idea, as well.
You're gonna need a wideband A/F ratio gauge. They're quite pricey (AEM's runs about $350, if I remember correctly).
Furthermore, you're gonna want to find a way to help your engine cope with the extra heat produced. Higher capacity radiator is good to have. Also, your stock fan(s) probably won't fit with the snail hogging a lot of room. Slim fans and a way to mount them is also good to have. The through-radiator mount system with glorified zip ties works, but it's crap. I know from firsthand experience. I ended up fabbing up bracketry to hold my slim fans on.
The stock MAP sensor hates boost. However, with a standalone fuel management unit, you should be able to keep that check engine light from kicking your car into limp mode.
Beefing up your engine would probably be a good idea, too. At the very least, I'd look into plopping in some ARP head studs.
5) Lucky for you, you have a D17A1 under the hood. Why is that good? It has a lower compression ratio than my VTEC D17A2, which means you can safely run more boost with a stock engine. However, if you want more power, I'd look into swapping in a D17A2 head, since all cams out there are made for the -a2, and not the -a1.
I can't think of anything more to add. As this discussion continues, I can probably think of some, but I'm supposed to be studying viruses right now. lol. If you've looked over all this and decide it's something you'd be committed to, by all means, go for it. Definitely do your research and have a GOOD plan laid out before you think about buying anything.
First off, do a metric crap ton of research. Back in... 2006 (I think), I thought I did enough research to successfully turbo my car. Boy, was I wrong. I bought a kit off of another member, included just about everything I needed for boost. I slapped it in, took it to a shop for tuning, and ended up taking it out a year and a half later.
After you've done your research and understand everything that goes into slapping a turbo on, take a step back and see if it's something you'd like to pursue. Lucky for you, I'm gonna go ahead and insert some of my knowledge here.
1) Tuning is everything. It'll make or break your build. Also, it's not enough to find someone that can tune your car. It's about finding someone that'll tune it properly. I did the former, and just found a shop that would tune my car. They did a crap job and I had to remove the turbo/tuning unit in order to have a car that ran properly.
2) More on tuning, piggyback units are what everyone gets, since they're more cost effective (think $500 for a piggyback unit vs. $1000+ for a standalone). However, with a piggyback, our ecu likes to fight back.
3) Like sdaidoji stated above, the AT doesn't play nice with increases in power. Manual tranny swap or don't do it at all.
4) GolNat has supplied you with a pretty good bare-bones parts list. Additional to that list, you're gonna need higher flow-rate fuel injectors (rsx-s injectors work for low boost).
You might want to look into a higher capacity fuel pump, as well. A popular choice is the Walbro 255lph pump. To take things a step further, you may want to look into a return-style fuel system conversion.
Also, if you end up with a water cooled turbo, you'll need cooling lines tapped off of your engine coolant system. A vacuum manifold is a good idea, as well.
You're gonna need a wideband A/F ratio gauge. They're quite pricey (AEM's runs about $350, if I remember correctly).
Furthermore, you're gonna want to find a way to help your engine cope with the extra heat produced. Higher capacity radiator is good to have. Also, your stock fan(s) probably won't fit with the snail hogging a lot of room. Slim fans and a way to mount them is also good to have. The through-radiator mount system with glorified zip ties works, but it's crap. I know from firsthand experience. I ended up fabbing up bracketry to hold my slim fans on.
The stock MAP sensor hates boost. However, with a standalone fuel management unit, you should be able to keep that check engine light from kicking your car into limp mode.
Beefing up your engine would probably be a good idea, too. At the very least, I'd look into plopping in some ARP head studs.
5) Lucky for you, you have a D17A1 under the hood. Why is that good? It has a lower compression ratio than my VTEC D17A2, which means you can safely run more boost with a stock engine. However, if you want more power, I'd look into swapping in a D17A2 head, since all cams out there are made for the -a2, and not the -a1.
I can't think of anything more to add. As this discussion continues, I can probably think of some, but I'm supposed to be studying viruses right now. lol. If you've looked over all this and decide it's something you'd be committed to, by all means, go for it. Definitely do your research and have a GOOD plan laid out before you think about buying anything.
05-11-2015
#13
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Re: turbo for d17? please help
Have you considered a k swap?
06-25-2015
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I'm sort of in the same boat. I have a super low mileage 04 ex that I have at my disposal. I don't drive this car and want experience with forced induction so since this is what I have to work with, I too am doing research.
My question is simple. I buy all this stuff and install it. Now what? I can piece together a turbo easily and install all the necessary parts but when it comes to changing computers and tuning i'm loooosssssttttttttttttt
My question is simple. I buy all this stuff and install it. Now what? I can piece together a turbo easily and install all the necessary parts but when it comes to changing computers and tuning i'm loooosssssttttttttttttt
06-25-2015
#15
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Re: turbo for d17? please help
Computer is done with Hondata and they have software you use. The ECU is OEM so it's pnp. Rywire I believe makes a harness conversion kit that makes it pnp.
Tuning is done by a shop using Hondata.
Tuning is done by a shop using Hondata.
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