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I appreciate it! Can’t speak for sure on the stickiness or true feel yet since I haven’t gotten an alignment yet but I’ll update on that probably next week. When you say feels great around tight turns do you mean just the easiness of it? Or the true performance and feedback feel? Definitely feel a difference while parking, seems to really stiffen up when picking up speed though.

The other day when parking it didn’t seem to loosen up when parking though. Did an exit on the highway got off and parked right away and still stayed stiff.

@D17VTECPOWER Do you have a visual or source for how to do the LED blink code test? Just want to make sure everything’s good with the system before getting an alignment and cleaning everything up.

 
Rep Power: 117

It's quite possible my rack is just messed up since I haven't seen anyone else report that slightly sticky feeling and mine seems to have slight play in it even though I replaced the slider. Next time I find a Civic Hybrid in a junkyard I'll grab it's rack and try it. I also wonder if maybe the EP3 rack has a different/better feel since it has a different ratio for a more sporty car. I only went with the Hybrid rack because the odds of me finding an EP3 in a junkyard around here are exactly zero, I have only seen 2 of them on the street in the whole ~6 years I lived in the Memphis area.

As long as the steering feels good, there shouldn't be any codes. I believe any error codes will disable the system. Checking for error codes is really simple. Just find a small 12V LED, connect the positive side to any positive source, and connect the negative side to the wire coming from pin 6. As long as the light isn't on while the engine is running, there aren't any error codes.

About a year ago I recorded a video of checking and clearing the codes for a friend who was having problems. I'll see if I can find that video and post it here in case anyone needs it.

 
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You could also wire the communication lines to the ODB port and use a scanner if you really wanted.

 
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I’ve rarely seen them on the street here in NYC as well but I went to a junkyard in NJ and there were four fully built ones parked outside and they had a few in the junk yard as well. Apparently they’re not that rare to come across is what the guy was telling me, but again that junk yard is the main source even for the smaller ones in NY. They ship as well. Pulled mine from a 2002 ep3. The ep3 rack is definitely more sporty can’t compare to the hybrid but compared to my hydraulic it gets more stiff at speed.

I’m gonna try the LED just for assurance. I’ll record a video if it ends up working for me. How do you go about grounding pin 8 if need be?

Might wire it to the obd if it’s not too much of a pain, seems like it’ll be convenient down the line. Gonna check out how the wires run tomorrow.

 
Rep Power: 117

Glad to hear the EP3 rack worked well for you. Since the EPS module monitors speed, it's supposed to stiffen up the steering as speed increases. I can't tell if mine does or not, to me it just feels kind of sticky like there's a lot of friction in the rack. It's not hard to steer, it just feels like it doesn't center itself very well. For example, if I steer a bit to change lanes or avoid a pothole, if I take my hand off the wheel without centering it, the car keeps steering in the direction the wheel was last turned. It's not bad, but obviously not desirable. Does your rack feel that way? I have read about people taking the rack apart, cleaning out the old grease, and regressing it to solve the sticking problem, but I haven't tried it.

I didn't look at how the OBD wiring is run, but it would be nice to have the option to read and clear codes with the scanner. I don't have a scanner that would read EPS codes anyways, only the fancier scanners do that. You can use a jumper wire or anything else conductive to connect pin 8's wire to chassis ground if you need to read the blink codes.

 
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So i've tried wiring it both ways for RPM and NEP... This happens every time. Followed the Deemosi video exactly. Anyone got any idea what the **** is going on?

 
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Hey I'm new to this group and don't know if it's still active, but today I picked up all the parts need for this swap and I was wondering for the wiring do I just need to tap those three wires into ECU or do I need to use the other wires aswell that are on the ECU controller box. (Minus the power wires and the wires that connects to the EPS motor and rack and pinion)

 
Rep Power: 117

You only need the wires I listed in my original post- the wires from the module to the rack, constant power, switched power, ground, RPM signal, and speed signal. You don't need the rest of the wires from the EPS module, just make sure to secure them so they can't short against each other or anything else metal.

 
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Hey, I just connected everything together and the power steering doesn't work. What are possible problems? I followed the instructions exactly If I
​​​​​​ I am correct

 
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Do you need to use the ground strap that's on the steering rack from the donor car?
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Did you check at the EPS module to make sure you are getting your switched power, constant power, and ground? I'd also double check the wiring for the RPM signal because the EPS module won't turn on unless it sees that the engine is running.

And no, I don't believe a ground strap on the rack is necessary, the motor is grounded through the control box. I didn't use a ground strap on mine and it's been working flawlessly to this day. To be honest, I didn't even know that the EPS rack has a ground strap and I can't imagine what it would be for, but since you are having problems, that would be a very easy and quick thing to try.

 
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Ground strap is now on and through some tests I found I'm only getting 7 volts to the EPS motor and now I'm currently having trouble getting volts out of my rpm wire tap and will continue troubleshooting this weekend.

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Rep Power: 117

Where are you measuring 7 volts? At the motor on the rack? If so, it's entirely possible that's normal although I haven't tested it. The EPS module controls the voltage to the motor and only sends the required amount of power for the input it receives, so I wouldn't expect to see any voltage between its 2 wires if the steering isn't being turned.

Not getting an RPM signal will definitely cause the system to not work, it needs to see that the engine is running to activate. Oddly enough, once the engine is running, if you stall it, the EPS still remains active as long as the key isn't turned off.

I wouldn't suggest using wire taps, I have found that they are extremely unreliable and I fix problems caused by them all the time. You could cut the wire and use crimp connectors to splice it back together with the extra wire on one end, but since I don't like unnecessarily cutting wires, I prefer to strip back about 1/8-1/4 inch of insulation, wrap the wire to be added around the exposed copper, solder it together, and tape it very well. That way, you know for sure that you have a solid connection and you didn't compromise the wiring in any way.

 
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So now I'm getting all the proper signals in RPM, key on power,power to the box, and vehicle speed sensor. And now I'm measuring 6 to 7 volts from the two wires that go out of the computer box and connect to the EPS motor. Same place. I was getting readings from before and maybe I misread and I was also getting 7. Side note, thank you for your continued help!

 
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Update, it works!, I found out I had a bad signal connection on my RPM signal, thanks for all your help!

 
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Is there something stating how many blinks represent what code? Having the same issue.. installed wont work. Getting power to eps module and its grounded properly. Pin 10 lights up when probed with testlight. Will check tomorrow to see if any codes are stored and if so how many flashes. Tried swapping pin 19&7 with no difference hoping maybe somehow they were backwards. My 3 signal wires coming from ecu to eps module are crimped using new factory pin terminals so no unreliable clips or soldering all factory connections.
Rebuilt whole engine with some upgrades and did the eps swap while engine was out now she runs like a top but I have no power steering...

 
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Double checked my 3 signal wires their in correct places. Have 3 blink codes
1 long blink 6 short blinks
2 long blinks 3 short blinks
1 long blink 2 short blinks

 
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help

 
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Try clearing the EPS codes. If any problem is detected, the EPS module will shut down the system for safety. I can't remember the exact procedure, but if you can't find it, I'll see if I can find it when I get back home.

 
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I tried the reset but i might not have done it right, do you know if the car being a DX model with no actual rpm gauge matters?

 
Rep Power: 117

If you did the reset properly, the EPS light should blink twice as a confirmation. I'd suggest that you wire in an LED for troubleshooting.

The tach makes no difference to the operation of the EPS system.