Originally Posted by iridehonda

Update: The problem is back. After working fine for a few days I just got home and my brakes were smoking and sure enough, it's locked up again. Any other ideas on what it could be?

Originally Posted by Colin42

Could also be proportioning valve. Stop reviving dead threads.

Originally Posted by sdaidoji

so you changed:

• pads
• rotors (not likely related)
• the pipes to the wheels?
• remove ABS fuse to deactivate it

Any specific wheel or all?
still not changed:

• master cylinder
• pedal assembly
• the remaining piping
• ABS unit itself
• rear drum cylinders

Originally Posted by ezone

Get it hot and dragging.
Immediately jack up the rear wheels and see if the passengers rear is also in a bind.

If drivers front and passengers rear are both dragging, it's likely a master cylinder issue.
Is the master cylinder reservoir cap rubber seal deformed? If it is, that's a clue someone may have got oil in it.


Otherwise, you need to figure out of the one brake is dragging because of a hydraulic system problem or if the caliper is bad mechanically.

Get it hot and dragging, then jack up the wheel and open the bleeder and see if it releases.
If it releases, it's a hydraulic problem and you have more checking that needs done.
If it does not release, then it's a caliper problem.


-----

If it's been severely overheated as you say, it's probably cooked its boot and seal and is shot.....so the caliper should be replaced.
But a replacement will also get ruined if there is an underlying hydraulic problem.

----


Pads that bind in the bracket.... I remove the bracket and take off the stainless clips and grind out the rust buildup, then coat the freshly exposed bare steel with Silicone grease.
Same for the slide pins.
I'm in the rust belt, I do this on almost every brake job I do.

Other people might just grind down an ear of the brake pad so it fits a little looser.

Pic of the rust buildup:




Cooked caliper, boot split open:

Originally Posted by Rrac72

Problem solved.
Ok. Hopefully this helps somebody here. I read all replies to this post and i appreciate those who responded. Your responses steered me in directions that enabled me to check and rule them out, eventually guiding me to a solution. So here goes....
The problem was caused indirectly by a brake switch. You know that switch under the dash that is activated by your brake pedal. Same one. It's a NC (normally close) switch that when deactivated by the pedal (i.e., the pedal is at rest) your brake light goes out. When you press the brake pedal, the switch is activated, thereby closing the circuit and your brake light comes on.
A few months ago, after a long day at work i found that my car would not start. The battery was dead. Apparently, there is a grommet attached to the pedal which directly pushes on this switch i mentioned earlier. It had disintegrated and so while my car was parked tall day, the switch was activated now that the grommet was not pushing up on it causing my brake light to be on, draining my battery.
Fast forward, when i got home, i found something to replace that grommet (not an original). The replacement was too thick (now i know) and what that did was prevent the brake from coming back completely in its resting position. What this translated to is that the brake fluid from the Master was not able to return completely because the spool inside did not clear the return ports hence with each press of the pedal the brake would eventually lock up. When checked, a 1/8th thicker grommet was all it took to create this problem. Had i driven the car afterwards then i might have spotted the significance of my actions...but i didn't. Anyway, now my car is driving like before......Great.
Hope this helps the next guy (or girl) .......Best of luck