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I just got a 2001 civic ex 5 speed off someone on fb marketplace for $850. It's a real pile, I've got to say. I've got several issues and some of which I cannot figure out for sure the cause of.
First off, it won't stay in 5th at all. You put it in and it will pop
​​out the second you let off the clutch. It'll grind sometimes, or every time if you try to hold it in (I've done this like twice because I don't want to roast it more). It is also a real project to get into reverse. More so than your usual old honda. I've got to mess around with the shifter for a little while, putting it in different gears, rolling a little bit... Etc. After the right combination for it that time, the shifter will start going into reverse, but not all the way. I've got to let off the clutch while trying to shift it, and then it'll go in with resistance. If I press the clutch back in at the right time, it won't grind going into reverse. Reverse works fine once you're in gear, but it's usually a little resistant to coming out of reverse after. Could this be a bent shift fork? A bad synchro?
it has a very noticeable whine coming from the engine bay. It sounds like it's supercharged, constantly, gear, clutch position, throttle position all don't matter. It increases directly with rpm. I'd like to think it's my timing belt tensioner or water pump, as it's coming from that area and I've got replacements on the way.
The car will also sometimes refuse to accelerate, like at all. I believe it's when it's cold. It will sorta idle when doing this, but hitting the gas any amount will basically just bog the engine. Sometimes it just goes away after a minute. I've had it stall twice, I think because I held the throttle open for too long while it's doing this. After i fire it up again, it works fine.
Any input would be appreciated, thank you.

 
Rep Power: 222

Checked the trans fluid yet?
check engine light?
used trans is only $150-$200

 
Rep Power: 223

The shifter assembly inside the car can cause some shifting issues. If you pop off the center console and look down inside the shifter there's a plastic ball around the stick part that can split and cause binding. When it happened to me it didn't want to fully go in 5th and would pop out. Just spray some WD-40 or some type of lubricant down there. I lubed mine up almost 10 years ago now and haven't had issues since. You could also unhook the shift cables from the transmission and see if it will shift into all gears smooth that way, that would narrow it down to internal/external to the trans.

Also, head gasket failures are extremely common in these Civics. Top off the coolant in the radiator and get the reservoir to the correct level as well then monitor it closely. If the level in the reservoir keeps going up it's probably a bad head gasket.

 
Rep Power: 210

5th gear synchro may be worn out/stripped and won't let you shift into that gear. Drain tranny (always loosen fill bolt first to ensure it can be removed before removing drain bolt). Once the fluid is drained inspect it for metal shavings. Only use a compatible fluid such as Honda brand for replacement. Some fluids have additives that can prematurely deteriorate the metals the synchros are comprised of.

Always best to have a vehicle inspected by a mechanic prior to purchase regardless of it's price. Polishing a turd can get expensive. Hopefully, you didn't buy a turd.
Another thing I learned over the years is never test drive a car unless it's licensed and insured under the sellers name. Also always inspect the title and ask the owner to present his license to you to match up the name on the title. A lot of *******s scamming so caveat emptor (buyer beware).

 
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The first thing I tried to get it into reverse was greasing that shift ball. It is split. I also took the cables off and it still won't go into reverse or 5th as far as I could tell, but the car was off when I was trying that so it might've been an inaccurate test.
I believe the bogging issue is due to an exhaust leak at the manifold/pipe gasket, letting air into the exhaust right above the upstream o2 sensor. The code is for high voltage at that sensor. If I clear the code while cruising down the highway with cruise control on, it'll stay off for as long as I'm on the highway. The timing belt tensioner and water pump were shot for sure, but so are the bearings in the ac compressor so it still whines.
I checked the fluid the first night i had it, it was low. I changed it with some generic 80w 90 gear oil because it's all I could find, I hope it's not too bad for it. Where would I find a used trans that's not as ****ed as mine? I was thinking about just rebuilding it once I have another car on the road.
I also think it might have a small combustion chamber to coolant leak because it will **** coolant out of the overflow tank, but I am hoping it was the rad cap that I just replaced. I'll have to check the level a few times to know.
I also discovered that it burns oil yesterday after driving it 350 miles at about 60-65 (4 grand, more or less) It burned like a quart yesterday
Edit: trans fluid didn't look like there was much or any metal in it, but it was very gross.

 
Rep Power: 366

Common issue. There are testing methods in the first post.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...reference.html

Another common issue: most likely oil rings in the pistons collapsed

 
Rep Power: 366

• the transmission issues...

Honda uses light oil, not heavy oil gear on the transmission.
Potentially PO did put transmission oil.
Drain and put engine oil in there and see how it works.

• Heavy oil in engine

you have an EX, so potentially it still have the VTEC engine - high viscosity oil will potentially cause issues with VTEC (oil pressure activated)

 
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It's got the stock d17a2 as far as I can tell. I have 5w30 in the engine because walmart doesn't sell lower viscosity conventional oil.
I might be wrong, but isn't hondas fluid like a 70w80 or something along those lines? I know I've read some thread where that was the consensus.

 
Rep Power: 210

This may help: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...r-wont-go.html
Ezone and Slumpert are experienced Honda dealer mechanics.

On 6th gen (your's is 7th gen as you know) Civics the service manual states 30w oil can be used for manual transmission fluid. You may want to consider using (non-detergent if possible) 30w oil temporarily as an inexpensive way to test and clean out the transmission. Walmart sells 5 gallon jugs for under $20. If it helps then drain it and refill with Honda Genuine MTF.

Loosing a quart of oil in 350 miles is very bad sign. It may have oil leaks that are burning off on the exhaust or engine before they got the ground. The cam plug and valve cover are typical sources of oil leaks. Other leak spots are rear main seal, crank seal, Vtec solenoid seals, oil pan gasket and spark plugs tube seals. Clean engine thoroughly and inspect engine from top to bottom. Place a large piece of cardboard under the engine bay and run from cold start to operating temp (15 minutes at op-temp). Allow engine to cool and check cardboard.

You sound like you have experience with cars so I apologize if I my replies are basic info that you may already know.

If it,s burning oil have someone follow your car while driving and accelerate periodically at different cruising speeds. They should look for blue/black or white-ish smoke from tailpipe. Internal oil burning suspect oil rings, valve stem seals, loosened internal tolerances such as crank bearings.

If you suspect emissions in coolant a block tester should prove that along with loss of coolant in radiator combined with coolant gain in reservoir. The rad cap you purchased is a good place to start.

 
Rep Power: 366

i simply use engine oil

 
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i like to think I know some about cars, but I'm definitely no expert so sometimes the basic information has a nice nugget of useful information in it.
I believe it may have a vtec solenoid leak as the engine is pretty greasy around there. I tried to take the solenoid off, but it had a rounded bolt so I just left it alone for now. It smells like it's burning the oil, and I haven't noticed any oil on the ground after moving my car in the morning. I'll check it more thoroughly with cardboard once I have time to. What exactly are the spark plug tube seals? (All my other cars have had normal coils) I'm assuming it's the seal in the valve cover that seals to the spark plug tube coming up from the head? One of the coils is missing the seal at the bottom where it connects to the spark plug, is that what you're referring to? That tube had a lot of oil in it when I took out the spark plug for changing the timing belt.
​​​I will change the oil out once I have time as well. I've got a mazda in my garage right now that I'm pulling the engine on to replace the rear main seal and clutch, so I can get to work tearing down the civic.

 
Rep Power: 210

I feel the same way about the basics as it can be easy to overlook them sometimes. As you stated there can be a new piece of basic info that is applicable.

Your answer on spark plugs tube seals is correct and when those seals fail the spark plug tubes collect oil as you mentioned. If I were in your situation I would replace the valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, cam plug seal, as those are very common leak areas and inexpensive. While the valve cover is off it would be a good time to do a valves clearance check/adjustment if you haven't already. You may want to remove, inspect and clean the PCV valve while the valve cover is off. It has a small metal gasket so be mindful of that when removing it. PVC clogging can be a source of oil burning and bogging but it's probably not the issue. Doesn't hurt to inspect and clean it though.

Vtec has two seals. One between solenoid and spool valve, and one between solenoid and cylinder head. Best to replace both with Honda Genuine (oem) only. On D16 (6th gen) engines I had two use Hondabond sealant on new Vtec gaskets to prevent leaking. Most likely the Vtec solenoid mating surface was slightly warped. The D17 engine Vtec solenoids are larger and beefier than Day's so just the new gasket by itself should work.

 
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It has popped out of 3rd a coupe times if I let off the gas kind of hard as of recently. Isb?

 
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So you need to change the shifter because the ball is split, if it keeps popping out of gear after that you need to replace the trans

 
Rep Power: 366

first change the oil.
Go from there
no point in wondering until you do that