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Well, you through me off when you mentioned single mass..so i was trying to get your understanding about single mass but i guess you mean single stage..you good though.i got it.im going to change my rear main seal so im just going to change my clutch as well..
Last edited by Tracecross30; Sep 9, 2019 at 05:51 PM.
Reason: More information..
No, not single stage. Flywheels only come in single mass, dual mass. Clutches come in OEM, stage 1, stage 2, etc. There's no such thing as "stage 1 flywheels" or other stage with regards to flywheels
No, not single stage. Flywheels only come in single mass, dual mass. Clutches come in OEM, stage 1, stage 2, etc. There's no such thing as "stage 1 flywheels" or other stage with regards to flywheels
My bad.its the guy at the machine shop ask me about single or two stages so he could give me the price to resurfaced it so i just ask it like that lol. I dont know much about cars but im catching on .thanks for information.i know the clutch comes in different stages though.
Last edited by Tracecross30; Sep 9, 2019 at 11:26 PM.
Reason: More information
You're good, my dude. That's what we're here for. I honestly have no idea what the guy at the machine shop is talking about. Nevertheless, the flywheel you posted up in post 24 is an OEM flywheel. I vaguely remember the weight spec being 17lbs. Quick search told me closer to 20-24lbs.
I'll break it down for you.
Flywheel upgrade is really to combat parasitic at the transmission. Lighter flywheel = less rotating mass = less power loss at the tranny. It's a quite bit more in depth than that, but that's the gist of it. A lighter weight flywheel is a double edged sword, however. RPMs will move faster -- both in the up and down direction -- and you know that little catch "window" your clutch has? Yeah, that window gets smaller. Rather, since revs are raising and falling faster, there's less time for that little RPM band. You'd be more prone to stalling out until you get used to it.
Then there's the difference between single mass and dual mass flywheels (DMF). That may be what your machine shop dude was talking about. In a single mass flywheel, it's just that: one metallic disk that contacts the clutch. Now, DMFs are the ones that can't really be machined. There's basically 2 flywheels in the assembly, and a spring on the inside that acts as a damper. Result: smoother engagement, less NVH, allegedly. lol.
Like I said on another post, 99% sure all 7thgen flywheels are single mass. I've not seen a DMF for the 7thgen, so idk what to tell you there. I only started learning about DMF's when I got my 2018, but I haven't really looked into them (just reading threads and articles here and there) since my civic is rocking a CVT.
The clutch, like I mentioned in post 6, albeit in different terms, has the job of getting the transmission input shaft to match the rotational speed of the crankshaft. How does it do that? The friction surface of the clutch disk meets with the flywheel (attached to the crankshaft), and the pressure you feel in the clutch pedal is the resistance of the pressure plate (refer to the gif below)
Now, when you get into the realm of stage 1 clutches over OEM, the main difference is going to be the pressure plate. It'll have much more clamping force, and you can definitely feel it in the clutch pedal. Possibly more heat resistant material on the friction bearing faces, too. Now, when you get into things like stage 2 and 3 where you have "pucked" clutch disks, not only is the pressure plate gonna have more clamping force, but since there's less surface area for the pressure plate to act on, more pressure per puck will be exerted onto the flywheel from the clutch disk. The friction material is also going to be performance based -- probably some sort of metallic ceramic that has the capability of biting harder and play nice when they heat up. This is also a double edged sword, since the increase in clamping force makes clutch engagement much harsher, and less friendly with regards to daily driving, for some.
You're good, my dude. That's what we're here for. I honestly have no idea what the guy at the machine shop is talking about. Nevertheless, the flywheel you posted up in post 24 is an OEM flywheel. I vaguely remember the weight spec being 17lbs. Quick search told me closer to 20-24lbs.
I'll break it down for you.
Flywheel upgrade is really to combat parasitic at the transmission. Lighter flywheel = less rotating mass = less power loss at the tranny. It's a quite bit more in depth than that, but that's the gist of it. A lighter weight flywheel is a double edged sword, however. RPMs will move faster -- both in the up and down direction -- and you know that little catch "window" your clutch has? Yeah, that window gets smaller. Rather, since revs are raising and falling faster, there's less time for that little RPM band. You'd be more prone to stalling out until you get used to it.
Then there's the difference between single mass and dual mass flywheels (DMF). That may be what your machine shop dude was talking about. In a single mass flywheel, it's just that: one metallic disk that contacts the clutch. Now, DMFs are the ones that can't really be machined. There's basically 2 flywheels in the assembly, and a spring on the inside that acts as a damper. Result: smoother engagement, less NVH, allegedly. lol.
Like I said on another post, 99% sure all 7thgen flywheels are single mass. I've not seen a DMF for the 7thgen, so idk what to tell you there. I only started learning about DMF's when I got my 2018, but I haven't really looked into them (just reading threads and articles here and there) since my civic is rocking a CVT.
The clutch, like I mentioned in post 6, albeit in different terms, has the job of getting the transmission input shaft to match the rotational speed of the crankshaft. How does it do that? The friction surface of the clutch disk meets with the flywheel (attached to the crankshaft), and the pressure you feel in the clutch pedal is the resistance of the pressure plate (refer to the gif below)
Now, when you get into the realm of stage 1 clutches over OEM, the main difference is going to be the pressure plate. It'll have much more clamping force, and you can definitely feel it in the clutch pedal. Possibly more heat resistant material on the friction bearing faces, too. Now, when you get into things like stage 2 and 3 where you have "pucked" clutch disks, not only is the pressure plate gonna have more clamping force, but since there's less surface area for the pressure plate to act on, more pressure per puck will be exerted onto the flywheel from the clutch disk. The friction material is also going to be performance based -- probably some sort of metallic ceramic that has the capability of biting harder and play nice when they heat up. This is also a double edged sword, since the increase in clamping force makes clutch engagement much harsher, and less friendly with regards to daily driving, for some.
Ok well explained. I'm going to do my rear main seal so Will just do mine as well.
You're good, my dude. That's what we're here for. I honestly have no idea what the guy at the machine shop is talking about. Nevertheless, the flywheel you posted up in post 24 is an OEM flywheel. I vaguely remember the weight spec being 17lbs. Quick search told me closer to 20-24lbs.
I'll break it down for you.
Flywheel upgrade is really to combat parasitic at the transmission. Lighter flywheel = less rotating mass = less power loss at the tranny. It's a quite bit more in depth than that, but that's the gist of it. A lighter weight flywheel is a double edged sword, however. RPMs will move faster -- both in the up and down direction -- and you know that little catch "window" your clutch has? Yeah, that window gets smaller. Rather, since revs are raising and falling faster, there's less time for that little RPM band. You'd be more prone to stalling out until you get used to it.
Then there's the difference between single mass and dual mass flywheels (DMF). That may be what your machine shop dude was talking about. In a single mass flywheel, it's just that: one metallic disk that contacts the clutch. Now, DMFs are the ones that can't really be machined. There's basically 2 flywheels in the assembly, and a spring on the inside that acts as a damper. Result: smoother engagement, less NVH, allegedly. lol.
Like I said on another post, 99% sure all 7thgen flywheels are single mass. I've not seen a DMF for the 7thgen, so idk what to tell you there. I only started learning about DMF's when I got my 2018, but I haven't really looked into them (just reading threads and articles here and there) since my civic is rocking a CVT.
The clutch, like I mentioned in post 6, albeit in different terms, has the job of getting the transmission input shaft to match the rotational speed of the crankshaft. How does it do that? The friction surface of the clutch disk meets with the flywheel (attached to the crankshaft), and the pressure you feel in the clutch pedal is the resistance of the pressure plate (refer to the gif below)
Now, when you get into the realm of stage 1 clutches over OEM, the main difference is going to be the pressure plate. It'll have much more clamping force, and you can definitely feel it in the clutch pedal. Possibly more heat resistant material on the friction bearing faces, too. Now, when you get into things like stage 2 and 3 where you have "pucked" clutch disks, not only is the pressure plate gonna have more clamping force, but since there's less surface area for the pressure plate to act on, more pressure per puck will be exerted onto the flywheel from the clutch disk. The friction material is also going to be performance based -- probably some sort of metallic ceramic that has the capability of biting harder and play nice when they heat up. This is also a double edged sword, since the increase in clamping force makes clutch engagement much harsher, and less friendly with regards to daily driving, for some.
Hey man.you know what size piston is in the block on the 02 civic ex? I'm trying to get a piston ring compressor but I'm not sure what size. The compress tool that I'm going to buy is tye one that cant adjust.. The size might be in tbe repair manual but i dont have thr time to search for it.
Last edited by Tracecross30; Sep 11, 2019 at 03:33 PM.
Reason: More information
Yeah, ACT clutches spendy. I got my stage 1 clutch and streetlite flywheel used as a package way back in the day on these forums. Was like $300 for everything
Hey man i have a question..i was working on my 02 civic transmission and the 2 main washer fell off when i was lifting it out of the housing , i know one of the washers ate flat and one has a different shape , i made skatch on paper for demonstration purpose so you can tell me the correct way to put it on the shaft.
it doesn't shape exactly like original washer but just shspe like this. (A) shows it with the belly turn downwards with the other flat washer on top and (B) shows it with belly turn upwards with the flat washer on top as well..please tell me which way it should turn.
