2004 Civic DX issues
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2004 Civic DX issues Hey everybody,
I have a 2004 Civic and it had been overheating for a while (maybe a year and a couple of months). So one by one I began replacing components of the cooling system in hopes it would stop. Finally I hopped on the internet and after reading other people's symptoms I discovered it was the head gasket. So a friend and I begin to dismantle the thing, got new gaskets for the head and everything else. After getting the head from the machine shop, we start to reassemble it and run into two issues:
1. While trying to torque the bolts for the water pump onto the engine, the bottom right bolt broke off. We've tried everything to get it out but no luck. Any suggestions you can offer would be great.
2. While trying to replace the gaskets under the valve cover (the ones where the coils go), I found that they were hard as a rock. They must have been melted onto the cover because of the overheating. I pulled and scraped off as much as I could but there's no way I could get it all out. This makes it impossible to put the new gaskets on, since the old hard rubber is blocking it. Any suggestions on getting that out? Should I just go to a salvage yard and try to find another cover?
Also, this is the first major work I've taken on, and I'm not very mechanically inclined so I guess don't be super technical in your responses please. I appreciate the help.
I have a 2004 Civic and it had been overheating for a while (maybe a year and a couple of months). So one by one I began replacing components of the cooling system in hopes it would stop. Finally I hopped on the internet and after reading other people's symptoms I discovered it was the head gasket. So a friend and I begin to dismantle the thing, got new gaskets for the head and everything else. After getting the head from the machine shop, we start to reassemble it and run into two issues:
1. While trying to torque the bolts for the water pump onto the engine, the bottom right bolt broke off. We've tried everything to get it out but no luck. Any suggestions you can offer would be great.
2. While trying to replace the gaskets under the valve cover (the ones where the coils go), I found that they were hard as a rock. They must have been melted onto the cover because of the overheating. I pulled and scraped off as much as I could but there's no way I could get it all out. This makes it impossible to put the new gaskets on, since the old hard rubber is blocking it. Any suggestions on getting that out? Should I just go to a salvage yard and try to find another cover?
Also, this is the first major work I've taken on, and I'm not very mechanically inclined so I guess don't be super technical in your responses please. I appreciate the help.
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Re: 2004 Civic DX issues
2. While trying to replace the gaskets under the valve cover (the ones where the coils go), I found that they were hard as a rock. They must have been melted onto the cover because of the overheating. I pulled and scraped off as much as I could but there's no way I could get it all out. This makes it impossible to put the new gaskets on, since the old hard rubber is blocking it. Any suggestions on getting that out? Should I just go to a salvage yard and try to find another cover?
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Three of the waterpump bolts are longer than the fourth, possible you put a long bolt into the shorter hole and snapped it because it was not going all the way in?
What setting did you have your torque wrench set too?
I ask because while you might be able to get the bolt out with a ez out, your threads are definately damaged and unlikely to survive a second error if they even survived this one.
As too the tube seals, leaving the old valve cover gasket in, and or using thick pice of cardboard. Set the valve cover
flat side down, and using a long flat blade screwdriver and hammer punch out the seals.
You can get just enough purchase on the seal to hammer it out even if you have already ripped it up some.
What setting did you have your torque wrench set too?
I ask because while you might be able to get the bolt out with a ez out, your threads are definately damaged and unlikely to survive a second error if they even survived this one.
As too the tube seals, leaving the old valve cover gasket in, and or using thick pice of cardboard. Set the valve cover
flat side down, and using a long flat blade screwdriver and hammer punch out the seals.
You can get just enough purchase on the seal to hammer it out even if you have already ripped it up some.
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Bottom right bolt for water pump housing
Ok so here it is. First let me mention I've solved my valve cover issue, thankfully. Thanks for your input on that one.
On to the broken bolt... so my friend, who is more mechanically inclined than I, thought he could try to drill out the bolt. We ran into the same issue as a guy in another thread with this problem, because it's so hard to access and get a straight shot at it. Now I'm convinced this thing is screwed to hell... i don't even know what to make of this pic. One idea i had is to screw the other bolts in and use some kinda sealer (Hondabond? Can someone explain that to me?) to hold it in place. Then start going to church and get real good with Jesus, then I'll ask him to make sure the water pump never fails. Or just tell the person i sell it to that the mechanic i went to did that
Now, before you go ripping on me about the damage, remember that I'm not a mechanic, and my friend that drilled the hole knows more about this stuff than i do, so i was trusting him. Again your help is appreciated guys Last edited by bigghass24; Nov 25, 2018 at 05:31 PM.
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This does not read like a happy ending.
I think one of the holes on the right can be drilled out all the way through the backside and you could use a nut on it
The other three holes would need a repair kit made for aluminum block, as you noted a hole saw though the inner fender or remove the engine to install.
Pretty certain no amount of sealant is going to hold for long,
I think one of the holes on the right can be drilled out all the way through the backside and you could use a nut on it
The other three holes would need a repair kit made for aluminum block, as you noted a hole saw though the inner fender or remove the engine to install.
Pretty certain no amount of sealant is going to hold for long,
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This does not read like a happy ending.
I think one of the holes on the right can be drilled out all the way through the backside and you could use a nut on it
The other three holes would need a repair kit made for aluminum block, as you noted a hole saw though the inner fender or remove the engine to install.
Pretty certain no amount of sealant is going to hold for long,
I think one of the holes on the right can be drilled out all the way through the backside and you could use a nut on it
The other three holes would need a repair kit made for aluminum block, as you noted a hole saw though the inner fender or remove the engine to install.
Pretty certain no amount of sealant is going to hold for long,
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A reverse drill bit attached to an angle drill or flex extension like the one in the attached link may work:
https://m.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Right-...
https://m.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Right-...
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Well while that looks horrific, might be still salvageable with some skill.
Do you have access to a dremel with a thin cutting disc and a steady hand.
I would put a ever so small slice up/down on the bolt and then see if I could turn it with a flathead screwdriver.
I would not worry about going into the block above the broken bolt a little, you already took care of the metal below the bolt so much it’s like a guide path for the blade.
Remember the blade with cut through aluminum like butter, but spark and stall on the actual bolt so go slow and keep it sparky..
Do you have access to a dremel with a thin cutting disc and a steady hand.
I would put a ever so small slice up/down on the bolt and then see if I could turn it with a flathead screwdriver.
I would not worry about going into the block above the broken bolt a little, you already took care of the metal below the bolt so much it’s like a guide path for the blade.
Remember the blade with cut through aluminum like butter, but spark and stall on the actual bolt so go slow and keep it sparky..
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Update: we fixed the issue. Got our hands on a right angle drill and got that sucker out. Then used something to re thread the hole, stuck a screw in there and held it down with two nuts. I'm keeping the faith that it'll be enough. Thanks for all your help everyone!
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Update again... unfortunately our method didn't work. As soon as I put the wheel back on and dropped it off the jacks, I heard leaking and immediately saw coolant coming out of the area. We tried using another bolt with sealant too, but I think the area is too damaged to hold a bolt. Any suggestions? Should I just sell it for parts? Get a new engine? Or how much do you think it would cost to get it fixed? As always I appreciate the help.
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Drill the hole deeper, tap it, then use a longer bolt? I'm not sure if you'd be drilling into a coolant/oil passage though.
Or drill it out bigger and use a larger diameter bolt?
Or drill it out bigger and use a larger diameter bolt?
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In your photo of the broken bolt, the surface prep was lacking.
The pump only needs just a minimal amount of torque to hold , but it pretty much need 100% clean surface to seal.
Based on all the scratches I see, might also be good idea to put a skim coat of sealant on the block, let it dry, then install the pump with a new “oring”.
The pump only needs just a minimal amount of torque to hold , but it pretty much need 100% clean surface to seal.
Based on all the scratches I see, might also be good idea to put a skim coat of sealant on the block, let it dry, then install the pump with a new “oring”.
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