Rep Power: 0

A 05 Honda Civic LX Model. It began stalling recently, so bad it's not driveable. The green key symbol is not going out, when the ignition is turned to on position. I have two keys, One for the ignition, and one for the door. When I bought the car in 23, the ignition key didnt work the doorlocks, I purchased two doorlocks with 2 keys. So car will now start with the ignition key, or the doorlock key, even thought the green key symbol is flashing. It starts on extended cranking, not normal for it at all. Once running the green key symbol continues to flash! It's not misfiring, but it shuts off immediatley when letting off of the gas pedal. What the heck is going on? I have no idea how to diagnose this? What do I need to tell if the immobillzer has gone bad, or the chip key? The ignition has always been really weird, as in anykey that will fit into it, will turn it. I turned by accident with the door key many times, and it would crank but not start as expected. The key has always been able to be removed with the engine running, which of course is not normal. Before this happened the ignition key worked normally. The key symbol would light up in the ignition on position momentarily, and then go out. The car would start up very fast, and run just fine. I was thinking about buying this scan tool! Would this help me figure out what is wrong? " Foxwell NT510 Elite for Honda Bidirectional All System OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner "

 
Rep Power: 368

immobilizer is not connected to OBD. Call a locksmith

 
Rep Power: 0

That's what I will do. I kind of thought I'd have to. I was hoping not! Thank you!

 
Rep Power: 0

The automotive locksmith couldn't program my keys to the ecm. You guys are too quick to say call a locksmith! The locksmith couldn't figure it out. I figured it was a bad ecm when it couldn't be programmed. If you guys have a car that starts with any key, even a doorlock key with no transponder in it, don't call a locksmith until you have a new used good ecm. Then call your person to program it. That's running in limp mode, with green key symbol flashing, and shes not running right at all! no one figured it out for me! I'm the Lone Ranger! And yes if your alternator top bolt backs out, and the alternator loses it's ground to the block? Whoop there goes your ECM! The funny thing is she ran good for a few days after fixing the bolt issue! She went into limp mode while driving just fine, until ecm died! Remember Flocker always figures it out the hard way! $$$$$ to the locksmith for nothing! Ha ha! She's a bad girl Civic from Texas! She's tempermental, but no rust!

 
Rep Power: 127

Would've helped had you mentioned your alternator issue in the first post. That's a very well known issue with these cars. Your symptom sounds a bit unique for a bad ECM but it makes sense after having all the information.

For what it's worth, I would've suggested a locksmith too.

 
Rep Power: 0

The honest truth is, I knew nothing about the alternator bolt coming loose, could loose it's ground, and short out the ecm. It came loose 3 times, before it ruined the ecm. i should have fixed it right the first time. The threads inside the bracket are stripped. I didn't feel like buying a used bracket, and going through the work of removing it. I thought I could lock tite it in place, and the bottom bolt would hold it good enough. It always managed to work itself out. If there was a way to remove the bolt, I could have fixed it without replacing , or repairing the bracket threads. There is a bolt, that will tighten into any stripped threads, just being sure of the correct length. Any of the 14 mm ones, I'm saying. Is there anyway to remove the alternator bolt? I'm going to drill a hole to try to replace it? I already have the replacement bolt, to try to see if it will tighten up good. P.S! I meant to say, that after it wouldn't program, I found out about the alternator bolt issue! When I learned of it, DOH!!!

 
Rep Power: 0

I received my new used ECM today. I have it plugged in, and I imagine ready to try to program. It is not mounted in it's final position! Is it ok to attempt to program the ECM, without it being bolted in? I just want to make sure it's working, before mounting it correctly. Is it ok to test it this way first? I will need to unplug the connectors after the programming, to mount it properly. Will it maintain it's memory, when the connectors are removed, and reinstalled? I hope so.

 
Rep Power: 368

yes, it will

 
Rep Power: 0

It's finally all done, and running well again! I replaced the bad alternator bracket, with a nice used one. Thank you for all your help!