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It's been over a year since I posted anything here. I'm having issues with my maintenance light won't reset even after I fallowed the instructions from YouTube videos. I turn off the car and hold down the black **** on the right on the gauge cluster and it never go out like it supposed to even after a minute it still there..

I need some help here.

 
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search.
famous issue in these cars.
moved out of the DIY section, that section is for people teaching others how to solve a problem, not to ask for help

you always have mechanical issues questions, please admit you have issues and post on the mechanical issues section from the start. Tired of moving your posts from wrong sections posted. Really.

 
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I was looking for where to post my question. I didn't think it was a mechanical issue. I was more looking for some kinda electrical issues.

 
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The switch on the circuit board fails. I assume you're unable to get to your trip meters as well. You either have to open the cluster, de-solder the switch, and solder in a new one. Or, replace the cluster.

 
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Ok.. I don't know what that switch looks like and also I don't really have a soldering gun. It may cost more to pick up a used cluster from junkyard but I will get one. Thanks

 
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Odometer reading will no longer match the car unless you find someone to program. No idea who can do that, if anyone. Probably Honda.

 
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You are saying that if I change the switch in the Guage cluster the Odometer reading will no longer match the car unless i find someone to program?

 
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Correct. Mileage is stored in the cluster, not ECU. You would have to find someone to reprogram the mileage to match. Or at least some sort of official letter that you keep in the car saying the old odometer reading, when the cluster was replaced, what the new cluster started at, etc.

so, I've changed out the switch for an EM2 odometer reset/maintenance reset button before. It's just a regular *** little momentary switch. I couldn't tell you actual measurements, because I found a switch that worked that I harvested from taking apart an old TV (because it was broken and I wanted to break it down to see the insides. lol). It's honestly not that hard as long as you have basic soldering skills.

Hardest part is reinstalling all of the needles so they were "calibrated" correctly. You have to do it with the car on, so the rotor on which the needles rotate are pointing at some non-zero value.
Tach: Luckily for me, at the time I had a VAFC-II installed that doubled as a digital tach, and I installed the needle pointing to the RPM place where it matched.
Fuel: I just made note of where it was prior to pulling the cluster apart, and put it back in the same spot after turning the car on.
Engine coolant temp: I let the car run for a good 20-25 minutes the put the needle just below half.
Speedometer: This was the sketchiest one, but the only good way I found to do it. I took some residential back roads with low traffic and find the absolute slowest speed my cruise control would come on, then I installed the needle pointing at 25mph.. with the car rolling. Yeah, pretty sketchy, but the speedometer was pretty damn accurate.

Edit: I dug through my container of electrical components and found a switch that is identical to the one I swapped in. It's a 6mm x 6mm normally open tactile switch.

 
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bro, how sure you are it can be fixed that way?. because i did the tap button method and didnt work. i can open the cluster with no problem but i dont wanna mess with electronics or any tiny connection. oh, do i have to disconnect the battery?.

 
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I can tell you it can be fixed that way I physically did the fix when I had that car. Before I did the fix, I had to use tools to get enough pressure on the switch to reset even just my mileage, and even then, it was a "cross your fingers and pray to all the gods it works" sort of deal. After the fix, it was like it was from the factory: gentle push activated everything.

You don't technically need to disconnect the battery since you'll want to take the cluster out of the car entirely. It's going to be impossible to take the cluster apart and desolder the backside of the PCB with the cluster still installed.

If you have general electronics knowledge and soldering skills, it's very doable. You'll need a multimeter to test the switch so you orient it correctly. You'll need a decent soldering iron, but not one that will fry the board if you run it too hot, and you'll need to have that Bill O'Relly, "f-- it, we're doing it live" attitude when it comes down to taking the needles off and recalibrating everything.

 
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brooooooo, i fixed it today but guess what, i messed with the needles. because i was struggling taking the covers out, first fuel gauge came out then speed needle.. i put them back by sight but when i went for a test drive, speedometer read like 60 mp/h when i was really going 25/30 mp/h lol so i took front clear cover out and turned key to ON and was able to correct them approximately.by hand, now i am not sure about fuel gauge reading. i will fill gas all the way up and see if i can have a better reading.
P.D. you know where can i get the microswitch for the trip meter? because i soldered wires temporarily till i replace it for a new one.

 
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Can't make any guarantees, but this might work. If it doesn't, you're only out $6