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2004 Honda Civic
224000 miles
D17A2 (not original motor, assumed to have around 140K miles on it)
Hi Everyone,
Today I took off air cleaner box and air filter box and cleaned the throttle body and MAP. This was the first time I took these boxes off after I purchased this car. While putting the air cleaner box and air filter box back on, I found that this switch seen in the pictures below was left disconnected so I connected it and put the boxes back.
Now low oil light is on. I checked oil dipstick and it was at half so I added 1/4 quart and the low oil light is still on. While the motor is running the oil light is solid red.
I only disconnected the MAP wire connector, and two other wire connectors around that corner and never disconnected any other wire connectors. I was wondering if connecting the wire connector shown in the below pictures which I discovered disconnected have anything to do with this low oil light on. Thank you for your advises!
T
Further investigated the wire connector and this is what I saw. Seemed like one of the wire with yellow and red is from the oil pressure sensor but I don't see the ground wire for it. Left the connector unhooked and low oil light is gone. How can I fix this? Do I need a new oil pressure sensor?
Does anyone know what that cylindrical part with sky blue wire is?
that connector with sky blue wire is from the VTEC (solenoid valve). i am not sure if its oil pressure related but i know is linked to cylinder valves operation and works at a certain rpms.
if it was not original to the car, the A2 engine is VTEC-E for the EX model cars. If the car is not an EX, the ECU might not be a EX model ECU, so VTEC will be simply there, not doing anything, just dead weight there at the top of the engine (bad for center of gravity). VTEC is oil pressure activated in the mechanical side, BTW.
Whatever you connected there triggered the oil light.
oil pressure light is connected to the sensor under the intake manifold, between engine and firewall.
Car would be happier with an engine without the VTEC (A1 type), now the VTEC mechanical parts are just a dead weight high in the engine and probably making less power than a working VTEC engine (not your fault, it came with it)
VTEC-E engines just swap from 3 valves in lower RPM to 4 valves higher RPM
@betdriver01 @sdaidoji
Thank you very much for your advise! Turned out this motor was D17A, not A1 or A2. Read the serial numbering wrong due to stains.
I will leave the connector off as it was before. Will leave the VTEC as a dead weight for now but at some point soon I will connect that connector and drive around to see if VTEC actuator works or not.
