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So in the process of removing my rear main seal I accidentally slightly mod the inside of the where the seal seal sits and when installing the new seal with a dead blow hammer it is now crooked with part of it further in and the rest of it flush how bad is this? I'll try and get a photo but it will be hard to show

 
Rep Power: 367

keep pushing and adjusting depth to an even level

you are simply finding out why people pay to other people to do the job.

 
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The side that's further in

The side that's basically flush

 
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Yep I can definitely see why. I'm not regretting doing it per say but this is really difficult lol

 
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So Ive got it close to even by gently hitting the side that's flush further in with the deadblow and a 1/4 extension, so as long as it's even it's okay despite being fairly far in?

 
Rep Power: 367

reinstall flywheel, clutch, trans, drive for a while and if you don't loose trans fluid, should be ok.
If you loose fluid, then no.

unless yer a professional that do many of them a week, hard to tell what is ok or not, non?
that is the life of a DIY'selfer

you won't know until you need to redo the job...

 
Rep Power: 367

i did on an old beetle, a golf like car, one of my miatas (which there is a nice tool that fits in there and have the right depth and will work all the time) and never did have to redo, so don't know what would work or not on the civic, never did the job

 
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Hahaha well there you go. And I could not for the life of me get the torque wrench at 80ftlbs to not phsycially move the engine, so I used my impact in auto mode which on my wheel lugs does about 78-80ftlbs, is that a big no no or should I be alright doing it like that?
Edit: I also put blue thread locker on all of them if that helps

 
Rep Power: 224

You're supposed to hold the flywheel in place while torqueing the bolts. For me, that usually involves jamming a flathead somewhere to keep it from rotating.

 
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Do this

 
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Yep I did do that but I couldn't get enough force behind the torque wrench to get a click set to 80ftlbs which I thought was strange as it's a pretty long 1/2 drive wrench and I was putting as much force as I could into it so I used the impact and continued as I knew I'd have to wait a few hours for someone to get home and help me put the transmission back in so I could wait for a response from this forum, but even when trying to put in the little 10mm pressure plate bolts at 35ftlbs It took so much force go get the torque wrench to click that I thought I'd done something wrong, so I loosened them and re tightened them and tried to torque them again only to have one of the bolts go from righty tighty to righty loosey, so I'm guessing something was up with the torque wrench or maybe I wasn't holding it right? Now I have to source some new pressure plate bolts and while I'm at it might as well get some new flywheel bolts because who knows how tight they actually were and also figure out what on earth was going on with the torque wrench as I tried it straight after at 35ftlbs on my lug nuts and it was very easy. This is getting more and more fun as I go along
Edit: the pressure plate and clutch were aligned as the clutch alignment tool (that I'd been waiting for 5 weeks to arrive!!) Was freely moving in and out after the pressure plate bolts were already tight

 
Rep Power: 222

Something is wrong with the torque wrench, or maybe you were on a weird angle. Make sure you didn't strip out the hole on the flywheel for that pressure plate bolt

 
Rep Power: 224

Flywheel bolt torque spec is 87 ft/lbs, 19 ft/lbs for the pressure plate. Don't know where you got 35 ft/lbs.

Trying to hold the flywheel in place with a screwdriver while also using a torque wrench at 87 ft/lbs is very difficult, but it is doable.