Drivability issues
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Drivability issues
I'm working on the 01 Civic for a friend, timing belt broke, I have it all back together with new valves, good comp, idle is ok but can't get passed 3K RPM, at idle or in gear driving, seems like it hits fuel cut or rev limiter. Or maybe its in limp mode? I'm not that knowledgeable on Honda specifics but I'm a retired mechanic relic from the carb days with updated schooling. There is a CEL but my scanner is loaned out, I'll have to go the parts store.
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Re: Drivability issues
Woot, we need to guess..
I guess you unplugged the cam sensor even though you shouldn’t and you didn’t blast the hell out of it and the pigtail with electrical contact cleaner before plugging it back in.
I guess you unplugged the cam sensor even though you shouldn’t and you didn’t blast the hell out of it and the pigtail with electrical contact cleaner before plugging it back in.
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Kinda of hard to replace the head without unplugging things...don't you think. No need to guess, I can do that with out help. Just thought there was a specific reason for the 3K limit.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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There's no way to avoid unplugging the cam sensor.
Just thought there was a specific reason for the 3K limit.
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I'm getting a crank sensor code and air intake sensor signal high code, I was running with the air cleaner off at first so that caused the AIT code I think. The wiring harness has to be moved out of the way, so those sensors needed to be disconnected, why is it such a big deal?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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I'm getting a crank sensor code .
This often happens after one just unplugs the wiring from the crank sensor: Disturb the contacts and it becomes a poor or intermittent connection problem.
The crank sensor connector seems to be susceptible to moisture entry and corrosion damage, and once moisture gets in there the terminals corrode.
Long ago I learned it's better to unbolt the crank sensor instead of unplugging it.
Okay......So is it fully connected now?
Look inside the harness end, are any of the terminals showing signs of corrosion? Turning green or blue?
If you get a new sensor, I hope you get a good one from a dealership.
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Your current situation is why it's such a big deal:
Do you really think that's a coincidence?
This often happens after one just unplugs the wiring from the crank sensor: Disturb the contacts and it becomes a poor or intermittent connection problem.
The crank sensor connector seems to be susceptible to moisture entry and corrosion damage, and once moisture gets in there the terminals corrode.
Long ago I learned it's better to unbolt the crank sensor instead of unplugging it.
Okay......So is it fully connected now?
Look inside the harness end, are any of the terminals showing signs of corrosion? Turning green or blue?
If you get a new sensor, I hope you get a good one from a dealership.
Do you really think that's a coincidence?
This often happens after one just unplugs the wiring from the crank sensor: Disturb the contacts and it becomes a poor or intermittent connection problem.
The crank sensor connector seems to be susceptible to moisture entry and corrosion damage, and once moisture gets in there the terminals corrode.
Long ago I learned it's better to unbolt the crank sensor instead of unplugging it.
Okay......So is it fully connected now?
Look inside the harness end, are any of the terminals showing signs of corrosion? Turning green or blue?
If you get a new sensor, I hope you get a good one from a dealership.
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You and I would so get along.
get a good can of electrical contact cleaner. Pull the connector off, squirt good 1/3 of the can on the sensor and pigtail ends. Wait 15 minutes for cleaner to evaporate. Reconnect being sure it clicks.
Don’t think you even need to reset the ECU, just take it for a drive and see if your getting full rpm. The light will stay on until ECU completes a drive cycle, but hopefully it will now be receiving crank signal so it will exit out of limp mode.
get a good can of electrical contact cleaner. Pull the connector off, squirt good 1/3 of the can on the sensor and pigtail ends. Wait 15 minutes for cleaner to evaporate. Reconnect being sure it clicks.
Don’t think you even need to reset the ECU, just take it for a drive and see if your getting full rpm. The light will stay on until ECU completes a drive cycle, but hopefully it will now be receiving crank signal so it will exit out of limp mode.
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