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Hi guys,

I have researched on here about cleaning the EGR ports, valves and passages about my P401 and P301 codes. I am wondering how do I relieve any pressure before I start this process? I don't have any maintenance manual to follow about relieving any pressure. I want to do this correctly as possible. I have been reading ScottD's How to clean EGR port as well as posts made by fsckewe, ezone and gearbox. I just need a few more steps.

Question 1: What are possible seals to replace if I am going in this far in cleaning the EGR ports, valves and passages?

Question 2: Should I check and clean the Throttle Body, IAC, Fuel Injector and PVC valve? Been looking at gearbox's post about maintenance.

Question 3: When cleaning the EGR passages and ports, can that plate be taken out or do I have to clean whiles its attached to the engine?

Thank in advance for any advise.
jsh

 
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Hey,

Sorry nobody has answered you yet. I haven't been on in a couple of months. This was a while ago I did this, but let me take a stab.

First off, I never had P0401. Not sure if trouble shooting is different for that code. Let me go grab my shop manual....OK so 401 is Insufficient flow. Manual says to clean the EGR valve with carb cleaner. Have you cleaned the **** out the EGR valve? Take it off, spray the **** out of it with carb cleaner. Clean it and the passage ways you can access from the mounting port.

Do this first. Taking off the injector plate and cleaning those passageways is a pain in the ***. Try cleaning the EGR first. replace and see what happens.

If you are brave and a glutton for pain, do the injector base plate removal....

Hope you didn't read my whole epic thread. It got derailed a couple of times. I'd suggest starting here:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4581739

1) You'll need an intake/injector base manifold gasket
Look here: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NIFOLD+%281%29

Manual says to replace injector o-rings. I did not. I just kept them lubed while out of the base plate. I *think* you can actually leave them in the injector base, but I took the fuel rail off. YMMV.

Umm, I think I replaced TB gasket. And the 4 gaskets for the intake tubes. Think that is about it.

2) You won't be cleaning fuel injectors, but the others are usually good preventative maintenance the more millage you get. I'd probably follow the advice in gearbox's thread.

3) You don't *have* to clean it while it's attached to the engine. I would I could have. If cleaning the valve itself does not fix the problem you might be looking at removing the base plate and cleaning passage ways. I would do this as a last resort. Ezone helped me thoroughly trouble shoot the problem. You should too.

Good luck and I'll be watching this thread.

 
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This is the first time I have seen this particular post. This won't solve the problem. 99.9% of the clog problems occur in the distribution plate passages, not the EGR valve. LOL....He may as well read the whole thing! I take it apart leaving it in as big chunks as possible. At work, we don't keep any of the gaskets on hand because there isn't sufficient demand for them. If someone wanted them, they would need to be ordered. So in order to give same-day service, I do all this work and reuse all the gaskets, and I have no problems.

 
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Thanks guys. I did read the majority of the epic post that you two went thorough. I haven't started anything yet and just wanted more feed back before starting.
I'll keep you two posted. From reading the posts, it seems to be an all day job (being cautious).

 
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I know darn well that working in the driveway can be quite time consuming, but I figured I'd tell you that in the shop environment, the manifold R&R is only valued at about an hour and a half for labor. Add a little time for the actual cleaning of the plate and that makes it about 2 hours for the actual mechanical part of the repair, from start to finish. Of course there was a checkout fee on top of that.....

 
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Do anyone of you know the torque specification for the bolts and screws?
I cleaned my EGR valve and that did not help with the code. I will have to do the passage ways on the intake manifold.

 
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12mm wrench size, 16 ft/lb
10mm wrench size (bottom brackets), 8.7 ft/lb (104.4 in/lb)

 
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Speaking of EGR removal (for cleaning), what tools did you use to get the front bolt off? The lip at the top always prevented my socket+extension from getting a grip on it!

 
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Bummer dude.

It certainly took me more than two hours because I didnt know what the **** I was doing. It's not rocket science, but it can be a bit cumbersome.

Take your time. Hopefully if you have another ride you can work on it over a day or two. If not, I'd plan at least a half day.

 
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https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4581965

 
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My fav, works amazingly well for this (DIAL UP WARNING: FREEKIN' HUGE PICS AHEAD)

 
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fskewe, I remember trying a swivel before to no avail. Now that my stock air box is off, maybe the extra room will bring me success next time.

ezone, what in the name in all that is holy is THAT?! Looks effective though!

 
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VERY effective for this task.

It was originally a special tool for removing one base nut from the carburetor on an old 1st gen RX-7 (12A engine).

You can build stuff like this..... extra tools (sometimes cheapos), a torch, welder, and spare steel comes in darn handy.
You wouldn't believe the selection of strangely bent wrenches I used to have just for removing exhaust manifolds from Turbo 944s.

 
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Wow, that's pretty handy to have! Unfortunately my housing situation doesn't allow me any access to any torches or welders, and my metal working skills are questionable at best. I'll definitely look into making something like that if I ever get ahold of a place with a garage!

 
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Yeah, it's a tight fit. I think slim sockets work best as well. I don't think those are torqued on very tight. I remember the first time I took it off I did not have the socket on exactly square and I had no issues rounding the nuts. As always, take your time and be careful.

 
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How much of this thread applies to my '92 Civic VX, which has ECU Code 12 "EGR lift valve"?

Brian

 
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That has nothing to do with what is discussed in this thread.

 
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Without knowing or researching anything more about the EGR issue you have, I'd guess the valve did not open when the computer expected it to open. Mixed up and detached vacuum lines could be a likely cause, but certainly not the only possible cause.


Wow, the forum is working again. Thanks mods.

 
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Fair enough, ezone, I started a new thread in 1st - 5th Generation. Feel free to freely dispense wisdom over there!

Brian

 
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Update: I ended up trying again today and holy crap, that sunbich is on there TIGHT! It looks like I rounded the nut a bit :-( I tried using a rubber band in my socket for more grip but my screwdriver ended up having to mount a rescue mission for it. I guess I'm gonna have to look into one of those Turbo Sockets to remove it... then I'll upgrade to a tougher pair of nuts :-P

 
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('92 VX):

I just stopped by my new Honda tech's shop, only chatted so far. He said (as I recall) if the car was idling and I removed the vacuum line from the EGR, and applied vacuum from another source to the EGR, the engine should die, else the EGR is defective/clogged, or the EGR ports in the IM are clogged.

Did I get that right, or did I invert the logic?

Brian

 
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He's right.
The EGR system is a passage between the exhaust and intake. That means when the EGR valve is opened (you connecting a manifold vacuum line to it-- or a hand pump-- should make it open all the way), exhaust is free to flow into the intake manifold through the passages.....it will stall the engine, or at least make it run really crappy.
If it doesn't stall or it only runs a little bit bad, then either the valve didn't open or the passages are clogged.

 
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Thanks!

Can you think of a good vacuum line to "steal" for this test, that won't have an adverse effect to disconnect at idle?

Brian

 
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Probably from the fuel pressure regulator, that's easy.