Rep Power: 235

I bought the innovative mounts. There's 3 of them. I thought it was the left/drivers side mount, front mount, and rear mount. This is what I have:

http://www.innovativemounts.com/Phot...ductCode=10550

Bought it from Corsport who sent it through Innovative. Now, either I'm an idiot, or someone advertised wrong, or someone packaged wrong, or innovative actually hasn't sold this to a 7th gen owner who's tried installing it.

Of the three in the picture... one is obviously the left mount. The other two... no clue. The haynes manual says we have 5 mounts. I've identified 4. None the less, it makes sense that they would send the common mounts for the civic, front/left/rear. Now the other two in that picture. The right one is the same width as the front mount, slips into the position fine, but the spacing, size and everything about the bolt holes is wrong. The bolt holes only fit the top right thinner longer mount bolt, the two short fat ones on the left and bottom don't even go through the holes. Plus.. there's just no holes underneath the damn bolt holes. And this isn't a case of jiggling the engine back and forth to get it lined up. They're just.. totally off. And I mean it makes sense, if you guys look at our front and rear mount here:

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...or-mounts.html
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ount-ouch.html (last post MT mount pics)

none of the mounts they sent me look like our front or rear mount. The middle mount is way too fat to be the front one, as it wouldn't even fit into the bushing .. holder bracket thing on the subframe. So what's going on here?? They didn't accidentally send the wrong parts.. its the same ones in the picture, and the box is marked as civic 01-05 not SI. They're advertised as replacement mount kits, not a swap kit or for re-positioning the motor. So...? I have a MT, and looked on hondaautomotive parts and it's not like they sent me the AT ones either because it doesn't look like those either. I was hoping this would be a quick job.. they came out really easy (surprisingly) and now that it's time to put them back in.. this. The innovative mounts didn't come with any hardware, bolts, nuts, etc. I'll call them monday, but I was hoping someone on here has experience with the innovative mounts.

 
Rep Power: 285

I looked at those before ordering the esmm inserts. I know andyman considered running them, but since they weren't available in billet I think he passed, to this day I've never actually seen or heard of a person who is using them. The front mount is also not supposed to be included in the package and that's a part of why they haven't been popular..

 
Rep Power: 235

Yeah I bet they'll both be closed now since it's Sunday. I considered buying new OEM mounts and the ES inserts, but this wasn't much more money and the build quality on these is exceptional, plus the lifetime warranty. It just sucks that they don't fit..

I imagine very few 7th gen owners buy these, because of the price and the fact that only a handful of us put down enough power to warrant these (me not being one of them). But I mean, I find it baffling because not ONE person bought these from Innovative or a third party retailer and called them after attempting installation to tell them two of their three 250 dollar mounts are wrong or for another year/make of civic? I find it hard to believe but can't come up with any other explanations!

Looks like I'll have to get a new OEM mount and just put some ES inserts in. I know people fab their own poly mounts but I'm not willing to put that much time into this. I need my freakin car running.

Thanks for the help though, good to know it's not just me losing my mind. I'll hit up corsport n innovative n who knows! Maybe I'm wrong and some hardware was forgotten or the wrong mounts packaged. We'll see...

EDIT: I just saw you wrote that the front mount isn't supposed to be included? Got a source for that? Not that I don't believe you, it would just be nice to have that confirmed. I considered the possibility that they just don't include the front mount.. but wth, why not that's the weakest and most easily trashed mount on even the most stocky of stock civics (like my own). I wish I had known that from BEFORE hand if that is the case.. It was nice getting the 2 extra mounts but what I really needed was the front one!

 
Rep Power: 812

lol yeah those arent even for our car. and the only one that really needs attention is the front mount. its usually the first and only one to break. and the ES inserts will fix that nicely.

 
Rep Power: 313

Hmm, did you by mistake order k20 swap mounts for the EM2?

 
Rep Power: 812

looks like the right part number, says 01-05 civic non si. just not the right sizes.

http://www.innovativemounts.com/Prod...ductCode=10550

 
Rep Power: 235

Well just an update, those were the right parts. They just don't include the front mount. It's the front/drivers/passenger. So over the weekend I changed the left and right mounts. The right/passenger side is probably a 6 out of 10 for difficulty. Mostly access problems. Had to remove the batt/air intake tube and part of the air box. Silicone Grease helped line up all the mounts immensely!! The picture's... the larger mount is the passengers side, and the smaller is the rear mounts. While I was at it and had the airbox off I put in the shifter cable bushings I had bought some time ago. Easy job! I also had a pair of the black ES motor mount inserts I had bought a long time ago before I discovered the Innovative mounts. But my oem front mount was broken so I picked up a replacement at Autozone and put the inserts in and installed it. Took the whole long weekend, about 3-4 hours of real work a day to do these. The right one is definitely a pain. The back one, I see as being equally difficult, not more. That mount has to be accessed from below unless you're willing to remove the entire airbox, TB and possibly IM, not sure. I'll attempt it, but needed the car for work this week so it's going to get combined into the timing belt/valve check job that's due next month. It's definitely easier to mount the center bolts and then mount the mounts to the body, for anyone who hasn't done this mod yet.

IT VIBRATES!!! Not as horribly as everyone said though. The worst is idle. After 1200 or 1500 rpm it smooths out and just sounds like a tightly mounted motor.. has a little rumble to it - I like it. As for feel, combined with the shifter cable bushings - great! Definitely got rid of transmission/engine bind when shifting into 3rd. I can downshift and wait longer between upshifts without the engine lurching on clutch engagement when I shift lazy , just shifts like butter. I have a feeling this is going to take a toll on my clutch because you can ride it so much more accurately now - but I prob shouldn't. Anyways, awesome mod, I suggest everyone do at least the front motor mount insert and use silicone grease - you don't have to dremel or trim the inserts or anything.

One question though - are there torque specs for these bolts? I couldn't find them in my hanes or honda service manual, so I did it as tight as I could with a 24" breaker bar but I didn't push it because the LAST thing I want is to shear a bolt off in the block. That would really screw my week.

How hard is it to pull your front LCAs? I have ES bushings for those and I know the right side needs a new one. Also, I've read through the valve check and timing belt DIY. Is it doable by a ..do-it-yourselfer? I'm not sure if it's above my level or not. The motor mounts and rotors/pads/lines/calipers/wheel cylinders jobs are the biggest things I have done on this car, or most involved I should say. I really want a tighter feel. I got my revo SS sitting here, I was gonna put it in with the shifter cable bushings, but I'm waiting on my shift boot from redline. After that I would like to tackle the LCA's and Timing belt/valve check job.

 
Rep Power: 285

The rear mount is definitely a pita to install, I have my front esmm inserts installed and the rears tool box. To install it you need to go underneath and remove the midpipe from your exhaust to access the mount, I'm almost considering going to a shop that rents lifts just to make it less difficult.

I went by feel on the torque as specs as well since I was unable to find them anywhere online, that's a risk though because you can physically crack the block if you go to tight not just break a bolt. If someone could post the torque specs for motor mounts that would be awesome!

Pulling the LCAs is simple, there's two bolts (22mm iirc) that attach them to the subframe and one (17mm iirc) nut that needs to be removed to separate the ball joint. The only major stumbling point I can think you might run into is if the bolts are seized to the metal collar inside the bushings, if that happens you'll need to cut the bolts to remove them. Otherwise, the only part that's a pain is having the bushings pressed in.

 
Rep Power: 235

Cool, I think I'll do the LCA's first then the valve check and timing belt. I dislike combining a lot of jobs in to one because re-assembly can become a pain.

The timing belt DIY here

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...-belt-diy.html

says 40 ft lbs of torque for the drivers side mount. Couldn't find any other specs anywhere else!

I didn't know that I could crack the block by overtightening as well. I got lucky actually because the first time I was using a jack to try and line up the new front mount I had bought and the thing just cracked. Thankfully they gave me a new one for free since it had a warranty. But after that I took it slow and doused it in silicone grease (cleaning up afterwards).

The bolt could be sealed to the metal collar inside the bushings, but the bushing itself, collar and all is free floating in it's circular housing, at least for the right side. When ever that wheel takes a bump or a hard turn I get loud metal on metal clunking - not good! Looking at the DIY, I was more worried about the castle nut and getting it off the ball joint. I imagine I'll need a puller?

Looks like that's next on the list. Thanks for the help everyone. Honestly this went a lot smoother than I expected it to do. Pleasantly surprised.

 
Rep Power: 285

You likely won't need a puller, if you read BlueEm2's ball joint DIY he did a great job outlining a trick for separating ball joints.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...necessary.html

The problem with the bolt seizing to the collar is that the it will just spin in the threads and not back out, it's a fairly common problem on older civics and on the lower bolt of our rear shocks.

 
Rep Power: 812

no way 40 ft lbs lol, it would vibrate loose in no time. i had to use a huge breaker bar (2 ft at least) to remove the bolts, so i tightened it using the breaker bar. very tight, i would say coming off it was prolly around 150 ft/lbs.

 
Rep Power: 285

I torqued mine to 40ft/lbs and they haven't vibrated loose..

 
Rep Power: 0

1st off im new on here, and mann!! lots of helpfull topics/threads on here!
Well i ordered the Innovative Mounts 60a Reds for my 2004 Civic VP Sedan,
Automatic lol! And yes KIT includes REAR, DRIVER SIDE, AND PASSENGER SIDE WICH IS THE TRANSMISSION MOUNT, i went OEM with the front one, but u can actually order the front 1 from Innovative Mount if u give them a call, its just a few dollers more than OEM, reason why i didnt buy it was because i had already purchased the OEM front motor mount. The only mount that gave me a hard time to pull out was the rear, other than that rest was a piece of cake. BTW, i recomend buying from innovative mounts because if u drive automatic u will need to special order 4rm them so they can build u a auto tranny motor mount, manual wont fit on a auto chassis. Car does vibrate alot while idle, red light, or stop sign, but soon as u start driveing it minimizes, u can definitly feel n hear engine torque at high RPMs due to the stiffness of the engine, feels like a raceing car, yet im still on a 4 cylinder gas saver vp. So if u dont mind a lil vibration, u wanna save some money, because buying all OEM motor mounts can be pricey, over $500 i think, when u can just get these 60a for $270, + $96 front OEM mount, go 4 it! u wont regret it. u can feel the diffrence right away, soon *** you turn ur ignition on.

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm actually replacing my front left motor mount, just picked up DEA motor mount because everyone swears anchor blows, anyone know the torque lbs recommended for it? I tried searching the damn manual and no luck!

 
Rep Power: 253

Good en tight, once it bottoms out go 1/8-1/4 turn more..

It doenst get crazy tight.