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First post here, tried looking before hand through other threads and could not find my specific issue. I have an 02 civic lx coupe with 179k on everything except the motor which has 154k that I had put in, and I'm having a few electrical issues such as, battery light staying on (car running and unplugged connector it stays on)(newer battery, alternator, and ELD) , dome light doesn't work at all (map lights still work), both door locks aren't working (used to work and gradually stopped), cruise control doesn't work (even the light for it won't turn on), wipers work but very stutter, and only when I turn the headlights on for the first time you hear and see the cluster flicker once or twice really fast. At one point I had installed a voltage gauge (connected straight to battery) and found that until the car is at full temp it will charge at 14.4v, once operating temp is reached it drops down to 12.6-12.8v and will hang around there until I reach about 3300ish RPM, and switches to 14.3v right away and will stay there as long as I am decelerating. Once on throttle it will drop down to 12.6-12.8v again unless decelerating or above 3300rpms. If I have the AC on (which works) it will hang around 13.8v for most of the time if not all the time. I've since removed the voltage gauge but symptoms are still the same because I can see the cluster lights dim and brighten as I drive the car. I'm starting to think it could be the multiplex unit but I don't have all of the symptoms I've read others have and I'm tired of running in circles. (tomorrow I'm going to try and test the cluster to see if the battery light blinks with the other cluster lights, and try to test wiring from alternator connector to PCM) Any help is welcome and TIA!!

 
Rep Power: 367

go to a junkyard and get OEM alternator/ couple of ELD and try them.
hondas no like aftermarket electronics

 
Rep Power: 222

Door locks is either the actuator or the wires

 
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Alright, so if the aftermarket isn’t good would it be fine to get an OEM one rebuilt? Just in case I come across bad OEM ones.

 
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I know I changed the passenger side with a wrecking yard one a couple years ago and it still had the same symptoms of barely working. I don’t know if it’s cause the of the voltage issues or if it’s cause all of the weird interior electrical issue(any input on that stuff?) But at one point they did just stop. I’ll still double check the wiring! Any tips are welcome and TIA!

 
Rep Power: 222

I've had good luck with junkyard ones not needing rebuilds

 
Rep Power: 367

common issue wire damaged at door hinges - all the open/close, so expected.

 
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I apologize about the door locks not working, I just realized I never checked if the driver door lock worked because I’d always check with the driver door open. Driver door lock works!! Not passenger, will be checking that soon!