MONTREAL area: General Discussion
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Strut bars are more for the rigidity of the chassis than for suspension tweaking (I admit that if the chassis is stiffer the suspension work better...).
If you want to improve the cornering capability you should look for new shock absorbers and sway bars...
I am not an expert on suspension component (look the Suspension FAQ), but look at this quote about shocks:
Shock absorbers
Strangely enough, absorb shocks. Actually they dampen the vertical motion induced by driving your car along a rough surface. If your car only had springs, it would boat and wallow along the road until you got physically sick and had to get out. Or at least until it fell apart.
Shock absorbers perform two functions. Firstly, they absorb any larger-than-average bumps in the road so that the shock isn't transmitted to the car chassis. Secondly, they keep the suspension at as full a travel as possible for the given road conditions. Shock absorbers keep your wheels planted on the road. Without them, your car would be a travelling deathtrap.
You want more technical terms? Technically they are called dampers. Even more technically, they are velocity-sensitive hydraulic damping devices - in other words, the faster they move, the more resistance there is to that movement. They work in conjunction with the springs. The spring allows movement of the wheel to allow the energy in the road shock to be transformed into kinetic energy of the unsprung mass, whereupon it is dissipated by the damper. The damper does this by forcing gas or oil through a constriction valve (a small hole). Adjustable shock absorbers allow you to change the size of this constriction, and thus control the rate of damping. The smaller the constriction, the stiffer the suspension.
Hope this help....
If you want to improve the cornering capability you should look for new shock absorbers and sway bars...
I am not an expert on suspension component (look the Suspension FAQ), but look at this quote about shocks:
Shock absorbers
Strangely enough, absorb shocks. Actually they dampen the vertical motion induced by driving your car along a rough surface. If your car only had springs, it would boat and wallow along the road until you got physically sick and had to get out. Or at least until it fell apart.
Shock absorbers perform two functions. Firstly, they absorb any larger-than-average bumps in the road so that the shock isn't transmitted to the car chassis. Secondly, they keep the suspension at as full a travel as possible for the given road conditions. Shock absorbers keep your wheels planted on the road. Without them, your car would be a travelling deathtrap.
You want more technical terms? Technically they are called dampers. Even more technically, they are velocity-sensitive hydraulic damping devices - in other words, the faster they move, the more resistance there is to that movement. They work in conjunction with the springs. The spring allows movement of the wheel to allow the energy in the road shock to be transformed into kinetic energy of the unsprung mass, whereupon it is dissipated by the damper. The damper does this by forcing gas or oil through a constriction valve (a small hole). Adjustable shock absorbers allow you to change the size of this constriction, and thus control the rate of damping. The smaller the constriction, the stiffer the suspension.
Hope this help....
Originally Posted by Redviking
Strut bars are more for the rigidity of the chassis than for suspension tweaking (I admit that if the chassis is stiffer the suspension work better...).
If you want to improve the cornering capability you should look for new shock absorbers and sway bars...
I am not an expert on suspension component (look the Suspension FAQ), but look at this quote about shocks:
Shock absorbers
Strangely enough, absorb shocks. Actually they dampen the vertical motion induced by driving your car along a rough surface. If your car only had springs, it would boat and wallow along the road until you got physically sick and had to get out. Or at least until it fell apart.
Shock absorbers perform two functions. Firstly, they absorb any larger-than-average bumps in the road so that the shock isn't transmitted to the car chassis. Secondly, they keep the suspension at as full a travel as possible for the given road conditions. Shock absorbers keep your wheels planted on the road. Without them, your car would be a travelling deathtrap.
You want more technical terms? Technically they are called dampers. Even more technically, they are velocity-sensitive hydraulic damping devices - in other words, the faster they move, the more resistance there is to that movement. They work in conjunction with the springs. The spring allows movement of the wheel to allow the energy in the road shock to be transformed into kinetic energy of the unsprung mass, whereupon it is dissipated by the damper. The damper does this by forcing gas or oil through a constriction valve (a small hole). Adjustable shock absorbers allow you to change the size of this constriction, and thus control the rate of damping. The smaller the constriction, the stiffer the suspension.
Hope this help....
If you want to improve the cornering capability you should look for new shock absorbers and sway bars...
I am not an expert on suspension component (look the Suspension FAQ), but look at this quote about shocks:
Shock absorbers
Strangely enough, absorb shocks. Actually they dampen the vertical motion induced by driving your car along a rough surface. If your car only had springs, it would boat and wallow along the road until you got physically sick and had to get out. Or at least until it fell apart.
Shock absorbers perform two functions. Firstly, they absorb any larger-than-average bumps in the road so that the shock isn't transmitted to the car chassis. Secondly, they keep the suspension at as full a travel as possible for the given road conditions. Shock absorbers keep your wheels planted on the road. Without them, your car would be a travelling deathtrap.
You want more technical terms? Technically they are called dampers. Even more technically, they are velocity-sensitive hydraulic damping devices - in other words, the faster they move, the more resistance there is to that movement. They work in conjunction with the springs. The spring allows movement of the wheel to allow the energy in the road shock to be transformed into kinetic energy of the unsprung mass, whereupon it is dissipated by the damper. The damper does this by forcing gas or oil through a constriction valve (a small hole). Adjustable shock absorbers allow you to change the size of this constriction, and thus control the rate of damping. The smaller the constriction, the stiffer the suspension.
Hope this help....
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Originally Posted by karizzle
thanks, that did help a lot actually. but just one more thing. for the upper strut bars, what does a ridgid chasis translate to? less body lean?
: When you corner, the whole car's chassis is twisting slightly. In the front (and perhaps at the back, but not so often) the suspension pillars will be moving relative to each other because there's no direct physical link between them. They are connected via the car body, which can flex depending on its stiffness. A strut brace bolts across the top of the engine to the tops of the two suspension posts and makes that direct physical contact. The result is that the whole front suspension setup becomes a lot more rigid and there will be virtually no movement relative to each side. In effect, you're adding the fourth side to the open box created by the subframe and the two suspension pillars.
To reduce body roll, you need sway bar. And before you ask... here is another quote
They're also known as sway-bars or anti-sway-bars. Almost all cars have them fitted as standard, and if you're a boy-racer, all have scope for improvement. From the factory they are biased towards ride comfort. Stiffer aftermarket items will increase the road-holding but you'll get reduced comfort because of it. It's a catch-22 situation. Fiddling with your roll stiffness distribution can make a car uncomfortable to ride in and extremely hard to handle if you get it wrong. The anti-roll bar is usually connected to the front, lower edge of the bottom suspension joint. It passes through two pivot points under the chassis, usually on the subframe and is attached to the same point on the opposite suspension setup. Effectively, it joins the bottom of the suspension parts together. When you head into a corner, the car begins to roll out of the corner. For example, if you're cornering to the left, the car body rolls to the right. In doing this, it's compressing the suspension on the right hand side. With a good anti-roll bar, as the lower part of the suspension moves upward relative to the car chassis, it transfers some of that movement to the same component on the other side. In effect, it tries to lift the left suspension component by the same amount. Because this isn't physically possible, the left suspension effectively becomes a fixed point and the anti-roll bar twists along its length because the other end is effectively anchored in place. It's this twisting that provides the resistance to the suspension movement.
Go check this site: http://www.carbibles.com/ as is title say it's a car bible! All the quotes were from there. Happy reading!
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Still alive... with a car that look even more stock since i jacked the tail. Thanks to karin and his tein keys!
I love my modified car
Anybody wan't to help me since i got 2 left hand full of thumbs....
got a set of headlight to cook....
Last edited by Simpaty; Jun 30, 2006 at 03:02 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Originally Posted by Simpaty
Still alive... with a car that look even more stock since i jacked the tail. Thanks to karin and his tein keys!
I love my modified car
Anybody wan't to help me since i got 2 left hand full of thumbs....
got a set of headlight to cook....

Your new exhaust is already loose?
For the help, I should be free next friday during the day... if you can!
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Hey Simpaty could you check at what price you can get Honda rear Brake Shoe Kit - Part Number should be 43053-S5D-A00 (according to this site)?
I think I need new one in the rear... I have to check them first, but I want to have an idea of the price...
I will upgrade for aftermarket upfront, but for the rear I'll stay OEM!
Thanks man!
I think I need new one in the rear... I have to check them first, but I want to have an idea of the price...
I will upgrade for aftermarket upfront, but for the rear I'll stay OEM!
Thanks man!
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Originally Posted by Redviking
Hey Simpaty could you check at what price you can get Honda rear Brake Shoe Kit - Part Number should be 43053-S5D-A00
(according to this site)?
I think I need new one in the rear... I have to check them first, but I want to have an idea of the price...
I will upgrade for aftermarket upfront, but for the rear I'll stay OEM!
Thanks man!
(according to this site)?
I think I need new one in the rear... I have to check them first, but I want to have an idea of the price...
I will upgrade for aftermarket upfront, but for the rear I'll stay OEM!
Thanks man!
What is it exactly? The pad in the drums?
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Originally Posted by Simpaty
The kit does not exist in Canada.... So 4 x $13 = $52
What is it exactly? The pad in the drums?
What is it exactly? The pad in the drums?
I will need to order also the other parts then... But, I am sure the guy over the counter will know what is required!
well it's done!
I gave the money to Faze... he will pick-up Xenin's D-spec this week-end for me! 

BTW, Faze has a really nice car!
Perfect drop! Nice exhaust! just a few paint problem
... Last edited by Redviking; Jul 5, 2006 at 07:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Originally Posted by Redviking
well it's done!
I gave the money to Faze... he will pick-up Xenin's D-spec this week-end for me! 

BTW, Faze has a really nice car!
Perfect drop! Nice exhaust! just a few paint problem
...You'll enjoy the D-Specs for sure! Monday we'll meet.
Thanks for the comments on the ride (NEW SPANKING B92P PAINTJOB will make the car look AWESOME =)
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Guess not Steve. Oh well, better luck next time. Though in my eyes, for the winner of the match it was if you want to party, Italy - otherwise go for the quiet French to win 
I so have to stop working so much.. no time to relax/enjoy the nice days. Oh well, c'est la vie.

I so have to stop working so much.. no time to relax/enjoy the nice days. Oh well, c'est la vie.
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Originally Posted by Karumba
...enjoy the nice days...
we only had a few so far... but this week-end was
Did you paint your caliper yet?

Seriously, I am still wainting of pix of your car with the shaved truck and some CF!!!
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It was a nice weekend in the least Hans.
And no, too lazy/time crunched to care about painting my calipers yet. So many other things to do that I haven't done - which depresses me and makes me do less and less.
Though supposedly your shocks are helping someone's springs settle. Perhaps you should get them and install them
And no, too lazy/time crunched to care about painting my calipers yet. So many other things to do that I haven't done - which depresses me and makes me do less and less.
Though supposedly your shocks are helping someone's springs settle. Perhaps you should get them and install them
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Originally Posted by Karumba
Though supposedly your shocks are helping someone's springs settle. Perhaps you should get them and install them 

Yeah I know...I'll pick them tomorrow! I am quite busy all days presently.
Then I'll need to find a place (and time) to install them...

BTW, I hit a flying bird on the highway this afternoon. When I arrived at home I realized that the bird was still in my front grill! Dead, half of his body stock between the grill and the bumper, with his guts all around... it was pretty disgusting! There was flys all over my hood... that forced me to clean the car. Hopefully I don't seem to have damage, or it's very small. That also explain why people were starring at me on some intersections!!!
Last edited by Redviking; Jul 13, 2006 at 08:55 PM.
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Anyone interested in Russell SS brake line for their civic? it give a firmer pedal feel.
I am looking to change my OEM... I found a deal at 150$ (tx included) for the4 SS line and 4 speed bleeders! Better price if we are more then one buyer...
On Ebay it's 99.99$US + shipping, without the speed bleeders! so it's a good price...
Let me know!
I am looking to change my OEM... I found a deal at 150$ (tx included) for the4 SS line and 4 speed bleeders! Better price if we are more then one buyer...
On Ebay it's 99.99$US + shipping, without the speed bleeders! so it's a good price...
Let me know!
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No thanks Hans.
Just to let you guys know, i' still alive. I'm now at Virginia Beach, taking life a day at the time with NO stress except choosing what to do of my days!
See you guys!
Just to let you guys know, i' still alive. I'm now at Virginia Beach, taking life a day at the time with NO stress except choosing what to do of my days!
See you guys!
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Originally Posted by Simpaty
No thanks Hans.
Just to let you guys know, i' still alive. I'm now at Virginia Beach, taking life a day at the time with NO stress except choosing what to do of my days!
See you guys!
Just to let you guys know, i' still alive. I'm now at Virginia Beach, taking life a day at the time with NO stress except choosing what to do of my days!
See you guys!

Enjoy your stay buddy! I am working all summer long...
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SS brake lines??
Nah, rather get the things fixed before I add in any more issues. Thanks for looking out for us again Hans
Happy birthday Shane (karizzle) (if you read this thread still)
Pat, thats why some of us don't take a vacation 
Good luck on the sale/trade Will - I'd assume someone who be on the look-out somewhere or other (if not here, then in TO).
Gassing up this morning Steve? Though if you care, every time I see you/your car - reinterates to me just how late I am running. Thankfully during these construction holidays traffic is light on the highways and I can make up time
Happy birthday Shane (karizzle) (if you read this thread still)
Pat, thats why some of us don't take a vacation 
Good luck on the sale/trade Will - I'd assume someone who be on the look-out somewhere or other (if not here, then in TO).
Gassing up this morning Steve? Though if you care, every time I see you/your car - reinterates to me just how late I am running. Thankfully during these construction holidays traffic is light on the highways and I can make up time
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I'm thinking about coming to Montreal for a long weekend. Where should I stay, do, go? I'm looking to just kinda relax and hang out. I want to stay some place where I won't have to rent a car to go anywhere and places are within walking distance or short rides away.
Anybody have any advice for me?
Anybody have any advice for me?
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Originally Posted by SimplySLB
I'm thinking about coming to Montreal for a long weekend. Where should I stay, do, go? I'm looking to just kinda relax and hang out. I want to stay some place where I won't have to rent a car to go anywhere and places are within walking distance or short rides away.
Anybody have any advice for me?
Anybody have any advice for me?
Pick any Hotel near St-Catherine/St-Denis or St-Catherine/Crescent or St-Catherine/St-Laurent and you should be happy!Have a good week-end!!!
Hey guys! I just got myself front and rear Reverb lips!
But, they are silver and a bit scratched (nothing bad), so I'll need to sand and paint them before... It will kick *** when I'll put them on! It was really nice on _Viper_ sedan if you have seen it. I'll just need side skirt to complete it... some from an 04 acura EL should be nice.
I'll post pics of the lips tonight...
Here's some pics of them:



Final goal (well... in parts!):

Now... I have to decide wether or not I paint them myself (you know how I am cheap!!!
).And if I fit or not the rear lip... it's not bolt-on on the sedan. So I may sell it if it's too complicated... Last edited by Redviking; Aug 3, 2006 at 03:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost



Mon Quebec!