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Is your email a comcast acct?

 
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i just realized it was at 10am. lol.

 
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Although I didn't have much luck getting my KPro running, it was a good little tech meet today. Thanks to those who helped me troubleshoot and break me in to the thrills and frustrations for which I call KPro. I have some work ahead of me now to determine what exactly is keeping the KPro ECU from datalogging and staying online when the car starts. This problem appears to be deeper than KPro, because now that I think about it, I could use scan tools with the ignition in the on position, but when the car was running during emissions testing, the data connection was non-existent. SOOOOO, when the car is started something is cutting off the data connection....any ideas, let me know!!!! Now I am off sot search the k20a.org and clubrsx.com forums to see if anyone else has had this problem. Thanks for another educating tech meet guys, and hopefully they next one will be a bit warmer.

 
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i keep missing all these meets!

 
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Just so you guys know I got the car to run fine, I took off the mani and used o rings to fill the spots so I didn't have as many leaks but I still had the problem of it wanting to stall below 4000 rpm took a crazy gues switched the map sensor plug for the TPS plug car started up and ran fine.

But I think my head gasket leaks cause I have been pushing a small amount of antifreeze into the overflow, it's taken a while but I filled the tank so I have been having some over heating issues the past couple of day's. pop the hood with my dad cause he drove it and smelled like antifreeze to look for a leak and the timing belt is slipping of the cam I think the tensioner seized I caught it before it slipped so we put it in neutral and pushed it in the garage I'll try to fix it tomorrow after work. My car hates me LoL

 
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wait, youre saying the whole mess was due to MAP and TPS plug being switched?? ANyways, sorry to hear your car troubles multiplying....

 
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Oh that's annyoing. I was watching your map and it seemed to be reading fine, WTF! Lol, well at least you figured it out. i actually wondered about that. Damn, talk about issues, hell yeah, glad you caught that **** before some valves bent.

 
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YEP!

I picked up a new tensioner last night I'll stick it on this afternoon with that new belt "I've already bent enough valves this year I don't need any more lol"

 
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I may have some resolution with my ECM/OBD2 connection issues. I did some more research on Hondata's forum regarding my symptoms, and the first important thing they said to check is to make sure that you are running "resistor" spark plugs because "non-resistor" plugs cause major electromagnetic interference with you cars electronics (misfiring, stalling, etc.) and can cause KPro to be erratic and shut off while datalogging and when starting the car. So, I go check my plugs, sure enough the guy before me had put NGK VPower Non-Resistor (heat rating=8) plugs in the K. VERYYYYYYYY BIG NO NO with the K-series engines to do this, and the KPro does not like it (it can actually severly damage it with 220V pulses going to the ECM). So, I have ordered the stock plugs (which are Iridium NGKs anyways). I don't know why he put those plugs in it (especially because you don't need higher than an 8 plug unless u are F/I generally), but I'm hoping that changing them out will solve my problem. Here's hoping!!!!! Take note and if any of you are having issues, look into whether or not the D17 needs resistor type plugs as well. I may need to mosey back on out to see you guys again in MD to play with Hondata if I can get it up and running correctly.

 
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the D17 use resistor type spark plugs as well. that probably has caused some of the problems but I have a feeling that is not all of your problems cause I would not think that, that would cause you to not be able to read the OBDII diagnostics port during emissions. But it could be just that simple. you never know

 
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Well, here is the kicker.....when the car is not running, I can read my ECM through the OBD2 port with a handheld scanner, but as soon as I take it to the emissions shop, and they start the car and try to connect their system to it, it won't connect. Then after seeing the same thing happen with KPro, where as soon as the car starts, it disconnects, it leads me to this conclusion. There is something that is causing the ECM to not send data when the car is running. I have tried 3 ECMs, and have troubleshooted all of the OBD2 port wiring. Im thinking that it may be something like interference from the plugs, a grounding issue, or a voltage drop when the car is running. But Hondata says to trash the non-resistor plugs immediately, because it has been proven to cause serious interference issues with staying ONLINE on KPro.

 
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damn, i didnt even know they still made non-resistor plugs?? news to me.

 
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They sure do....the ones that are in my motor are NGK V Power 8 R5671A-8. And, Im assuming they were replaced to increase the heat rating, but to me it wasn't necessary and instead just hurt the engine by causing unecessary electromagnetic interference with the car's electronics. Still waiting on my new NGK plugs from ClubRSX...should be here tomorrow.

 
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You can get them from any parts store within a day. There's no real use in using iridium plugs....

 
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I believe the stock RSX plugs were Iridium plugs, so I just ordered stock plugs, which should be totally adequate for my application. Iridium shouldn't hurt though, correct??

 
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There is nothing wrong with iridiums. They are just way overpriced and unnecessary.

 
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OK, good ****. I just wanted to go back to stock with them, since they didn't need to be messed with in the first place. Should be here tomorrow.

 
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So, here it is....I replaced the non-resistor spark plugs and now I stay connected for datalogs and am street tuning my A/F and knock to a tolerable level so that I can drive it gently ont he street until I get a dyno tune done at a later date. Can those well-versed in KPro take a look at my recent datalog and tell me what you think?? I know my A/F is off on the High Speed Fuel Map, but let me know what you think. One question is this.....As you can see on my High Speed Fuel Map (F6), for example Column 9 at 5000 rpm, it shows -5. Do I highlight Columns 8, 9, and 10, then Ctrl+J, and adjust by the median percent for all three columns, or just for column 9 since it was the only one that shows a needed adjustment?? I have been changing all 3 columns together even if they show no +/- change necessary. Also, if two columns side-by-side show +2 and -2, do you highlight all of the cells and make them 0 (with the Ctrl+J function) or leave them alone?? Any tips on my current datalog would be appreciated, I think I have tuend out my knocks, I had as many as 19 mostly in the 5500 to 5750 rpm at cam angle of 40 degrees. Thanks for the input guys!!

 
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Your Air to fuel ratios look fine to me there is one spot at idle that it started to lean out a bit but not by too much not enough to hurt anything as for knock I don't really see any. the Knock sensor on the honda engines is super sensitive if you didn't have a front bumper on your car and your engine hit a fly going down the road it probably register a knock. the last guys I dynoed with would not use the honda knock sensor they said it was worthless and they just checked plugs cause it was more accurate.

 
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Yes, but on two datalogs on two different datalog runs, I had 19 and then 9 knocks both from 5500 to 5750. And, as I tuned them out a bit, they went away. But, I understand it is really sensitive and anything small could produce knock. I was looking at the big picture over several runs to see where I was getting knock. With the A/F, could you answer my question about tuning when only one column out of 8-10 needs to be changed. Do you still highlight and change all of them together? And if there are two side by side that are +1/-1 do you just leve them alone?

 
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you usually only change all the columns or section of the columns when you are just trying to fix that whole general specific area wich is what I tend to do on the idle because you sometimes don't really know what part of the map the ecu is reading off of. When I get close enough i drop down to one or two specific cells and just change those and try to fine tune those and if there is a +1/-1 I usually don't bother with that and just leave it alone.
I hope this answers your question I think I undertstood it lol

 
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OK, I'm getting a hestitation/stuttering like it wants to stall when I am at partial throttle from around 2,000 rpm to 3,000 rpm. It feels like a jerking action and when I give it more gas it goes away. Any clue how to tune this out?? Thanks.

 
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Any help guys?? Driving me nuts...

 
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Are you running closed loop with a wideband? If you are, you shouldn't need to change anything at all.

 
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Andy, explain further. I am running the stock RSX-S wideband, and have been adjusting my A/F to get it to 13.2. How do I choose when to run closed or open loop, and when do I run each? Is this automatically done? Thanks, and forgive any ignorance, as I am a student in the world of KPro right now!!

 
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Why 13.2? You don't need to tune or tweak anything. All you need to do is re-upload the cai map and turn on obdII and turn on closed loop and you're done. You don't have to worry about anything else.

 
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I was reading some forums in the ECU tuning section of clubrsx's forums. And there were a couple of credible posters that explained that the CAI calibration doesnt always run right on every engine, especially if other modifications have been made. So it said to datalog it under the CAI calibration, and then examine the datalog using View>Fuel Adjustment, and by looking at the Low Speed and High Speed fuel tables. Then go and check the graphs of the knock count and rpm, to determine if it is knocking, as some of the CAI calinrations have done on the k-series. Mine had 19 knocks in the 5k rpm range for one 30 second datalog, so I asjusted the ignition 2 degrees at a time in that range and my knocks lowered to 9, then I asjusted it 2 more degrees and it has dropped to like 2 or 3 which is acceptable considering the knock sensor picks up a couple knocks at VTEC and misc other noise sometimes. Here are the links I followed:

A/F tuning: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=274704

Knock tuning: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=233079

Im still learning but a lot of the guys over there seem to feel that this is the way to go with the K, so thats what I followed until I can get it to a professional tuner for a dyno tune.

BTW, I also went and FINALLY got my emissions passed. It was the non-resistor spark plugs that were keeping the ECM from communicating. $35 dollars later and it communicates with my laptop through KPro and with the emissions desktop computer testing software. So, take note!!!!

 
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I don't get it, if you know what needs to be done and you're not following anyone's advice here, why are you asking us for more suggestions, why don't you get all of your information there....?

 
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Just trying to learn more man, I don't complete understand the ins and out of KPro yet, as it seems like there is always more to be learned about it. I just wanted advice from those here who are more exerienced with it them I am. Wasn't trying to shoot down anyones advice, just balancing one from the other and trying to make sure I don't make a costly mistake. Sorry if I came at you the wrong way Andy, not my intention man. Do you think I shouldnt follow those posts? Or do you think its a reasonable approach? Not trying to argue with you, as you obviously know more than, just wanting to pick your brain and discuss it a little bit. I do appreciate the advice!!

 
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I'm not worried about it, man. But Paul and I have given you the same exact advice and explained things in person and in this thread, which you haven't taken. So do whatever you want to do.