Non v-tech to v-tech ?????
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Non v-tech to v-tech ?????
Alright well blew my motor up like when i say blown up i do it the right way it aint done till it wont start back up or things are fling out of it. Anyways theres a 2" hole in the side of the block right behind the a/c compressor braket so blocks no good.
The question is can i take a non-v-tech bloch and remove the head and put my v-tech head on the top an still have v-tech or is it one of the i need to run an oil line. The difference is 400$ and im sure i can buy some very nice looking oil line with 400$ to spare. So if theres some one who can point me in the right area give me pictures anything at the moment i need my 40mpg back. Haha.
This is the hole and snapped rod haha
The question is can i take a non-v-tech bloch and remove the head and put my v-tech head on the top an still have v-tech or is it one of the i need to run an oil line. The difference is 400$ and im sure i can buy some very nice looking oil line with 400$ to spare. So if theres some one who can point me in the right area give me pictures anything at the moment i need my 40mpg back. Haha.
This is the hole and snapped rod haha
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: Non v-tech to v-tech ?????
You didn't post what year your car is.
Looked at 01 and 05 regular 4 door Civics in the (USA) parts catalog. All versions (DX/LX/EX) use the same block part number in each of those 2 years checked.
So I'd say you should be ok.
Look the cars/engines up yourself to be sure:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
http://estore.honda.com/
HTH
Looked at 01 and 05 regular 4 door Civics in the (USA) parts catalog. All versions (DX/LX/EX) use the same block part number in each of those 2 years checked.
So I'd say you should be ok.
Look the cars/engines up yourself to be sure:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
http://estore.honda.com/
HTH
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Sorry man the car is an 02 honda civic ex the motor is a D17A1 thats all i know haha. Never really did anything with a honda to be honest i do V-8s fords chevys stuff like that nothing foriegn so this is kinda new to me haha.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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You probably need to thoroughly clean out the head.
Check this:
Check this:
See, when a lower end bearing lets go, it normally sends bearing material and crank material all throughout the entire lubrication system. That means metal will end up in the cam journals and the VTEC system (when equipped) and the rockertrain-rocker arms, shafts.... EVERYWHERE.
The metal debris can hide in the damndest of places.
If it isn't ALL cleaned out thoroughly, then it can be just a matter of time until it trashes something.
3M Scotchbrite Roloc gasket grinder discs can really trash a set of bearings in a hurry too. Those are a strict no-no when doing internal engine work.
The metal debris can hide in the damndest of places.
If it isn't ALL cleaned out thoroughly, then it can be just a matter of time until it trashes something.
3M Scotchbrite Roloc gasket grinder discs can really trash a set of bearings in a hurry too. Those are a strict no-no when doing internal engine work.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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The short blocks are ALL the same in the parts catalog. Zero difference.
And there is no "H" in VTEC.
And there is no "H" in VTEC.
Last edited by ezone; Oct 6, 2012 at 03:24 PM. Reason: in the parts catalog
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If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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