filcard

Problem: I have a VERY stuck spark plug in my 93 Honda Civic EX 1.6. It is so stuck that I broke 3 sockets (the steel of the socket literally sheared or split) trying to get it out. Finally, the spark plug itself sheared below the hex. The ceramic came out very cleanly all the way to the tip, so only threads and the electrode remain.

I've scoured the web for every solution under the sun regarding a stuck spark plug. Obviously most people will say "pull the engine head". I understand the reasoning for that answer, but I'm looking at every option BESIDES that for now. Reasons being I don't have the proper equipment or workspace for that laborious job, and I don't have the cash to spend $1000 or $2000 that a shop would likely charge for the labor.

I've tried soaking in PB blaster, liquid wrench, etc - for multiple days. No effect.

I've tried various extractor sets with a good breaker bar, and this only wedges the threads against the engine head threads and grinds pieces off of the threads... no matter how steadily I apply pressure or pound the extractor in with a hammer first, etc. No avail whatsoever.

I have read accounts of people suggesting applying heat - like with a propane torch. Every person who suggests this has done it with success, giving an account. Problem is, this is literally impossible. I don't know how they could have done it. When you put the torch down the tube, the flame is extinguished in the blink of an eye about 1/2 inch down (much less the 7 inches or so length of the tube to the base where the stuck threads are). I assume this is because all the oxygen in the tube is burnt instantly, and the flame has nothing to burn. I tried 2 different torches, including a very slender pencil torch. Same result.

So I started looking into removing the tube itself to get access to the base. Looking at it, it seems the tube is part of the engine block itself. No visible way to remove. I read a couple people saying "just pull it out". Others say it cannot be done. Others say it will require a machine shop to do it.

http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-re...g-tube-338078/

Then I finally found this video of a guy who has a very viable method he employed on a Dodge Neon - almost exact same configuration of tubes in appearance. He put a deep socket inside the tube to keep it from getting warped/smashed, and then wiggled it back and forth with vice grip pliers. Then he applied locktite to the tube and carefully pounded it back in with a wood block buffer.

This seems all very simple and logical. Anyone know if it is possible with a 93 Honda Civic in similar fashion? I'd like to get at the threads more directly. I'm particularly interested in heat-pbblaster-heat-pbblaster combo because everyone says it works like a charm if repeated enough. Expands and breaks the corrosion or seal enough to back it out with an extractor.

I'm also willing to bore it out if that doesn't work and use a Helicoil, etc. But I'd prefer to get it out clean and tap it clean and anti-seize it for a new plug. I'm also very aware of the filings and shavings in engine problem. I plan to very thoroughly probe with flexible magnet before trying to start it up and blah blah blah.

tildeath

Take the head off. Its your cheapest option. its not hard. I had a head reworked and re sealed and machined for 165 bucks. Ive used helicoils on heads and it can lead to mega failure. There fore many cause you to replace the whole head. machine shop can have it out in a jiffy. Best choice. Good luck.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i would honestly take it in to a machine shop (ask first if they would be able to get it out before towing there). since it looks like you are stuck after trying all you can.

filcard

That's good advice... to at least call a machine shop to see if they are pretty confident on their ability to remove said spark plug (no matter the stuckness). If they give an affordable quote and can actually deliver, I'd definitely go for it. I have other problems I want to figure out and learn from. This one is simply keeping me from repairing the real issues with the car, which honestly will be rather fun for me.

I'm not so sure about your assessment of "not too hard" concerning taking off the head though, tildeath. That's the signal to me that you might be speaking from the perspective of experience I don't have. Plus, I don't have a garage. I can only tackle simple, non-invasive repairs in my current apartment's parking lot .

If you meant taking off the valve cover, you're right, that's ridiculously easy. But taking out the whole cylinder head looks like quite a job to me. It seems like something not to be taken lightly because it involves displacing the timing belt assembly and at least a half dozen other key engine components... and then getting them back together correctly with proper pressure, seals, and timing. Not that it doesn't sound like a fun project to tackle... but I simply don't have the necessary workplace and tools, especially now that the weather is turning for the season. And since it's a pretty involved job, I've read people saying it can be expensive to pay a mechanic to do it because of the hours of labor. Heck, it's pretty stinking expensive to have a timing belt replaced, and that's about 1/5th of the work involved in pulling an engine head!

Here's where I found the steps involved and am basing my concerns on - granted, it states 1995 to 2000, but I imagine there are many parallels for my 93:

http://www.ehow.com/how_8053020_remo...d-16-vtec.html

Plus, the following link, a key syllabus I found on the subject gave me a momentary nightmare of the possibilities of taking a car into a shop to get a spark plug removed (not really all that different than my own past unfortunate dealings with numerous mechanics - except that I'm too meek to try to go after them).

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...e-removal.html

Honestly, I've had bad experiences with mechanics. No offense to anyone on here, but I have never gone to a shop that did what they said they would do and honored their quote. They charged more, and then the problems returned quickly. That's pretty much the whole reason I started becoming a DIYer. I got sick of throwing money at people who pretend to know it all, only to find much the opposite. And that's after investing a lot of time online looking for a local shop with unbiased, consistently good reviews from multiple web sites. Oh well. Maybe I just have bad luck

I will definitely call around a bit, but I'm growing weary of shops who promise but don't deliver or run their original quote through a exponentially increasing equation before giving me the final bill.

I still would like to hear from someone who knows if the spark plug tube can safely be jiggled out with the method of stuffing it with a solid socket of equal diameter and going back and forth with vice grip pliers, like the guy in my first post did with a Dodge. If that's possible, I can get a torch in to heat and expand the threads, and I've read numerous DIYers who have had success with the heat & penetrating oil combo. If the tubes are welded to the block, I wouldn't dare try to jiggle them out. But the video makes it look like an easy job.

Thanks for your replies. It's amazing how a simple job can become a nightmare so quickly. I don't give up easily though. I still have a few ideas to try before I throw in the towel.

I like a comment that I read somewhere... even the most experienced mechanic is DIYer... they've just been doing it longer. When I learn this junk through experience, tough work and trials, I become closer to expert over a certain area (like spark plug removal... I'll be a master when I'm done with this ).

Sorry, I'm famous for writing a lot.

lazlong

Not here in Texas. If the final bill is more than 15% of the quote the shop has to eat the extra cost.

BobDobolina

Take tildeath and gearbox's advice. Remove the head and have the shop remove the damned thing. I agree with you on how shops rip you off (thats why I DIY too , but your job is pretty strait forward: heres the head, remove the plug.

And while your there, replace everything you remove if you can afford it. timing belt, tensioner, water pump, oil seals...and then POST PICS!!

Oh an I would NOT stuff something else into anything, thinking it will do what you said...LOL do NOT do that!

And the torch...you dont need to get the flame RIGHT on the part...just near it, it'll heat up pretty quick...

Hope that helps, and be sure to follow up with wtf happened!

tdbaker156

heres kinda a dumb question, is the spark plug cross threaded? if so you are looking at taking the head off anyways to have the threads fixed. head removal is very easy. especially on a honda. label your plugs and hoses then unplug everything. take the valve cover off and depending on the motor you will probably have to remove the camshaft too. put all of your bolts in separate baggies and label them. then take your head bolts out and remove the head. make sure you replace the head bolts with new ones, and if you dont get a head gasket with permaseal make sure you coppercoat it. it can be done within a day or two depending how machanically inclined you are. ive removed cleaned and replaced it in a matter of about 6-7 hrs. but its alot easier with help and you can cut that time down.

m25m24

If you haven't figured a cheap way to remove the stuck plug please drop some brake-fluid, don't use oil. I had one of my plugs stuck so bad, I tried everything but failed. I even tried to take it to Honda and they wanted to charge me $149 (daylight robbery) just to change the plugs (I didn't tell them one of them was stuck). I dropped some brake-fluid overnight, started the car in the morning and drove about 5 miles, came back and unscrewed easily. Hope this works for you too.

BobDobolina

Thread from the dead! LOL

But brake fluid, huh?

Very intriguing...