Rep Power: 0

Well my car began to lightly surge Sunday, didnt drive much on Monday Tuesday still was surging slightly but would go away when gave the throttle, mostly seems to happen during acceleration but seems to be getting worst, by Wed on way into work car was surging then died on highway, I towed home and replaced ICM and still no spark, replaced coil and started, however still am having surging issues and afraid was not the coil but the cause of the coil failure rather. I have done my searching and have found these to be the most common issues, but have spark now but still seems to miss getting worst regardless of temperature, etc happening at different speeds now instead of just at range was before, but before I pour anymore money into the issue I was hoping to get a jumping off point to start and maybe see if anyone local in San Diego with 1.5 that I can try Dizzy from to see if is just my whole dizzy unit, or if something else and go from there...

Thanks for all the help!

 
Rep Power: 235

Most of the guys I have seen with this problem ended up replacing the distributor housing also. #4: http://www.hondapartscheap.com/south...t=0&quantity=0

 
Rep Power: 0

well unfortunately it wasnt the distributor, so back to square one, bleh! well anything else I might try would be helpful, tested compression no major variances, rechecked all sparkplug gaps, and temp sensor seems to be giving correct readings and rising as always had on dash, I dont know where else to look please help!

 
Rep Power: 0

Try your timing belt. Mine was doing something similar and when I finally got it checked out, my timing belt was off by 3 or 4 teeth. The tensioner was shot and the belt had slipped out of adjustment. See if that helps

 
Rep Power: 0

ok, so here is where I stand after weekend working with online tech, problem would seem to correct, then come back, read below

Status:Awaiting Expert ReplyCategory:HondaValue:$27
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Asked by you on Saturday, May 21, 2011 9:21 PM EST
0 Accepts / 1 Answered Question




I have a 1993 Honda Civic, it has been surging while driving, started out lightly at first but then as started getting worst my coil went out, replaced and got spark again but problem has been getting progressively worst now not just driving happens while idling too, have plenty of coolant and sensor seems to be rising on guage as normal to normal operating temperature. I tried a new distributor even and still have same issue, need help of where to look next, btw compression from 1-4 170, 160, 165, 165 any ideas? cant afford to keep throwing money at problem hopefully can return distributor
Country: United States
Make: Honda
Model: Civic
Year: 1993
Engine: 1.5l sohc 16 valve

Already Tried:
ICM, Coil, Distributor, battery, battery connections, resetting ecm

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Expert





You have received an Answer!

From master tech

Sunday, May 22, 2011 1:18 AM EST



master tech : Hello welcome to just answer I am master tech and will be able to assist you today.

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok

master tech : on this motor their is a fast idle valve if you remove the 2 screws and the gold color plate. you will see a plunger gently screw this back down until it stops then reinstall the cover and the 2 screws. then readjust the idle if needed.please CLICK HERE for fast idle valve location and info

master tech : CLICK HERE

master tech : Hello

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : I just received response opening window for location now

master tech : ok

master tech : this is very common

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : Im looking for picture of gold plate now not seeing where location would be

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : but do see where valve itself is so should be able to locate

master tech : this is under the throttle body

master tech : it's in a tight spot

master tech : most people just remove the throttle body and it makes this job much easier

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : I was just going to ask that

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : I will have to do this once daylight is out again

master tech : im one step ahead of you lol

master tech : sure thing.

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok, so if that does not work, would that mean would need to replace?

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : or?

master tech : yes but in my years these are able to be readjusted back to normal and all is good

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok, like said once have daylight will do and get back to you

master tech : ok sounds good.

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : Im keeping my fingers crossed is that simple

master tech : have a nice evening let me know tomorrow how this goes.

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : because I have been at a loss

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : thank you will do

master tech : yes I have seen that

master tech : good night

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok, well did what suggested, when first started car seemed worst than before then slowly seemed to get better as car warmed up, once car was warm I turned off, pulled ECU fuse and set ecu at idle with all accessories off for 20 minutes

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : I turned off vehicle and restarted the vehicle, and seemed fine still, took out for a drive to test if fixed issue, seemed better at first then slowly got worst and by time got off freeway again was surging in idle again where felt like was going to die then kick back up and on

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : Another note not sure if helps or not but seems to lack power and when get on the gas when is happening engine revs high without getting much response in speed then seems to kick so to speak

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : I am disappointed wasnt as easy as the adjustment, just my luck lol

master tech : Good morning

master tech : let do the test on the fast idle valve.

master tech : did you actually unbolt the fast idle valve from the throttle body ? the reason Im asking is their is a oring that will some times fall off.

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : no I didnt remove from the Throttle body

master tech : ok then lets follow the test that I posted last night and see what the results are. was the plunger loose ?

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : Plunger did seem like needed a lot of adjustment down but did not remove throttle body to adjust since did last night

master tech : ok. lets do the test then

master tech : the fast idle valve might be bad

master tech : these do get carbon on the plunger and will sometimes keep the valve open

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : test is is the right side of what sent me last night right? feeling hole on inside of throttle body?

master tech : yes correct

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : will let you know results

master tech : sounds good

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok, so made sure again that round piece around plunger was in fact tightened down again in the day light, which it was, I checked over everything once again and started engine, I felt a suction from lower port as car engine warmed I continued to test and felt suction from lower port

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : I felt light suction from metal tube from valve cover to Air Intake duct, heavy suction from upper port that if covered would start to die, which seemed to check out normal, checked valve on upper radiator hose wasnt any air in the line, did notice maybe a small amount of coolant leakage from older hoses, etc but coolant levels were all normal, and no air in the line that I noticed

master tech : so after this warmed up you should not feel the suction. so sounds like a bad fast idle valve then if you did the test correctly

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : yea, made sure to follow correctly, tested at start up, allowed to warm until fan kicked on, then tested again, as test said to verify no air in coolant system

master tech : ok sounds like the issue is the fast idle valve.

master tech : I have seen people actually take these apart and clean them.

master tech : I seen this on you tube but have never actually done it.

master tech : we dont do this at the dealer once we confirm a failed part we recommend a new part.

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok, I am looking for part now, hopefully not too expensive LOL I would rather put new one on since this is not a part I am familiar with on vehicle

master tech : Ok these are around
master tech : 150 at the dealer
JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok, thats not horribly priced compared to what was expecting, my dizzy unit from Autozone cost more

JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok, so looking for part online, can not locate, is dealer typically only place to find New? also saw while searching instead of cleaning a lot of people who just replaced Plunger is there a place to obtain plunger without using one from a used one?

master tech : No their is not parts sold for these only the valve its self. The dealer is the only place that sells this to my knowledge
JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok, thats what it was looking like when looked online, should I discontinue driving my car while this is happening until can resolve issue? I do not want to do any damage that would cause more issues

master tech : No you can drive it nothing else will get damaged.
JACUSTOMER-gicf9kyb- : ok, thank you




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From master tech

Sunday, May 22, 2011 2:54 PM EST


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You have received an Answer!

From master tech

Sunday, May 22, 2011 4:55 PM EST


your very welcome.
please take a moment to leave me some feedback after you accept. I strive for all positive feedback and bonuses are always welcomed.
Master Tech .
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You replied


Sunday, May 22, 2011 5:36 PM EST


well I took off FITV in meantime while awaiting a dealership parts dept to be open, it was actually fairly clean, seemed like a bit of corroded coolant on it, cleaned up and tested with lighter, plunger went down, but know what felt when tested and that was air suction still, I checked the IAC valve as well and screen was pretty dirty, cleaned up and reattached, still was acting up slightly while warming up, once all the way up to temp, turned off car, unplugged ECU fuse for a little bit, not terribly long, and when reattached and turned on the car while warm was dipping almost dying on a 4th count almost, but know engine turns incredibly fast so not like a loss of spark was like deh-deh-deh-wom deh-deh-deh-wom etc. unplugged ECU fuse currently for longer to see if will help. I did notice around thermo that radiator hose was dripping a little bit but very little not a spray or anything like that, I do believe the thermostat to be removed as just bought recently but temp never seems to go as high as my fiancees integra so not sure if this would cause issue that if temp not raising high enough wouldnt enter computer into correct programming for air, etc












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From master tech

Sunday, May 22, 2011 5:51 PM EST


hmm im lost a little
so now this is cleaned up but the car still leaks at the bottom port and now it starts funny and is leaking coolant ?




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You replied


Sunday, May 22, 2011 6:10 PM EST


well its not leaking major coolant, just noticed little bit when took apart, just reset ECU again and warmed up perfect with no issues, but while warm felt bottom port and could still feel suction (hot as hell too lol) but no dips in idle etc so now turned off and letting car cool back off to see if problem reoccurs while cooled down or...












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From master tech

Sunday, May 22, 2011 6:17 PM EST


so if you block the port with your finger you can control the idle?


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You replied


Sunday, May 22, 2011 6:19 PM EST


no, doesnt change anything, what I was saying was that even though can still feel suction Idle feels fine now, but letting car cool down to see if reproduces itself














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From master tech

Sunday, May 22, 2011 6:21 PM EST


h mm odd.
did you readjust the idle ?



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You replied


Sunday, May 22, 2011 6:23 PM EST


no I did not change idle at all, seems to be idling at same speed as normal, I do not have an internal rpm range as no tach with Automatic,
















You replied


Sunday, May 22, 2011 7:47 PM EST


so after I had "reset ecu" at least I think ran at idle perfect for awhile, then let car cool off for over an hour went inside, came back and turned on car still was idling fine, went out for a drive, felt fine at first like when first made adjustment on backside of FITV then progressively got worst again, a new symptom though, again when I got to autoparts store to return dizzy (where I took test drive) when put in park seemed like Idle was searching again also did in neutral however when in drive was different type sputter I dont know if did not reset ECU properly because problem seems to correct itself and feel fine while driving then slowly return to previous condition although does feel better than did. Still presents itself the worst when under load trying to go uphill, as throttle changes, but at idle seems to steady self, please help know on right track since everytime mess with throttle body stuff begins to feel better then return to previous state












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You have received an Answer!

From master tech

Sunday, May 22, 2011 9:06 PM EST


well heres the deal after you reset the ecu you have to do a idle relearn.
so lets start at step 1
reset ECU
#2 perform idle relearn and adjust idle to specs and retest with OUT resetting the ECU
CLICK HERE for idle adjustments

Idle Learn Procedure: When
and How to Do It

• Reset, replace, unplug, or reprogram the ECM/

• Disconnect or replace the battery
• Do engine work that requires R&R of the

• Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit,

• Let the engine reach its normal operating

• Let the engine idle for at least 5 minutes with

• If the cooling fans cycle on while doing an

time.



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You replied


Sunday, May 22, 2011 9:50 PM EST


ok, so that is essentially what I had done, was warming up fine, did have a little bit of stumble like before but not really that bad, then when car reached normal operating temp started doing that idle bump like was dying when was in park/neutral and CEL light came on when would turn on A/C the problem would stop, however even if driving with A/C on decided to see if this would help issue since seemed to stop erratic idle in park/neutral and it did not still felt like was a lack of power like was starved for air/fuel/spark something... how do I test CEL code to see what is showing, I have had no CELs until today when took IAC off TB and cleaned screen, is this a result of needing a ECU reset or are both things FITV and IAC bad, etc please help as I would like to resolve asap and I know you are tired of hearing from me lol












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From master tech

Sunday, May 22, 2011 11:35 PM EST


wow you got a few issues going on here.
this might need a hands on tech to proceed further.



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You replied


Monday, May 23, 2011 12:10 AM EST


well came on all of a sudden, and progressively got worst, will seem to be better then as start to drive gets off again, so wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere that would cause these issues, if have to will take in for a diagnosis and go from there, just hate to pay someone to do the work part when I can do myself, but at this point the diagnosis part is where I am stuck, I'm hoping not both the FITV and the IAC are bad

 
Rep Power: 195

I went through this almost exact same problem (without the heavy surging you started with) I replaced the FITV and that fixed the surge when cold but still had the surge when warm. Cleaned the IACV and it got worse. Replaced that and the surging issues went away.
Sill have a starting issue but the car runs perfect once it starts.

 
Rep Power: 0

timing belt fine, just checked no missing teeth no cracks, no looseness, same issues still

 
Rep Power: 235

http://check-engine-light-codes.blog...retrieval.html

 
Rep Power: 0

code went away before could test it, so not sure what code was showing, ordered my FITV to see if helps on low end, and then go from there, I am going to flush my radiator too, to just make sure again that there is no air in the system. Once go to auto store and pick up some more TB cleaner will spray around intake to check for vacuum leaks

 
Rep Power: 0

Well, when you figure it out, be sure to post back here and let us know, and for future reference of anyone with a similar problem