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Hi Everyone,

Here's the problem:

Fuse 22 blows when the ignition is on, even when the window buttons are not pressed. Takes about 30 seconds after turning the ignition on to blow. So the front passenger window does not work.

Here's what I have done so far:

1. Removed the door panels on both front doors. Looked for obvious signs of a short in the wiring but found none.

2. I removed the passenger switch and verified that it was clean and didnt smell burned. I also replaced it with the rear door switch, replaced the fuse, then the fuse burned out again before I could even try to press the button. However, I put the front switch on the rear door and it worked the window with no problems so it isnt a bad switch on the passenger door.

3. I removed the Master switch on the drivers door, put a new fuse in and it did not blow. However, I tried pushing the passenger side switch and the window wouldn't go down. I looked on the forum and someone said that the master switch has to be connected to close the circuit for any of the windows to work. As soon as I reconnected the master switch, the fuse blew.

What should I do next to find the problem? I am going outside now to look inside the plastic wiring harness and look for possible wire short. Does anyone know what I should do?


Thanks in advance!

 
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Logic dictates BAD MASTER SWITCH, or wiring leading to it.

 
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Not necessarily the switch (it might be though), since the master switch must be connected to close the circuit to the passenger door switch, it can be ANYWHERE from the passenger door to the driver door.

 
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I added the schematic to this thread https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...-problems.html

It may help you out.

To keep from going through fuses you can wire a bulb in place of the fuse...when the short is present the bulb will be at full brightness, locate the short and the bulb will go out.

 
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How did you wire the bulb to the small fuse area?

 
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Granted it would not be a simple task with new smaller fuses.

You might take one of your blown fuses and try to further expose the two top test points and try to tack 1 wire to each test point with a soldering iron, then wire those leads to a bulb.

You could check the auto parts store for a fuse tap that will work on these size fuses and put in a blown fuse and use 2 fuse taps.

 
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I don't know if the following comment may help but...

Back when I owned a '97 Prelude, the fuses for my instrumental (gauge) lights were constantly blowing out. I must have replaced them dozen of times. I took it to the dealership and they couldn't figure as to why this was happening. I then asked my friend to take a look at it and he discovered soda gunk inside all over my clutch (where the shift **** is). He looked at me with a "OMG" look on his face and asked, "Did you spill a drink awhile back?" I just looked at him and said, "I have no idea what you're talking about." And walked away as quickly as possible.


LOL~!


IDK, but somehow all that gunk was grounding out my circuits blowing up the fuses.

 
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Excellent trick. First u gotta find a blown fuse then... Radio Shack sells miniature 12v bulbs with axial leads, so u just bent then and insert.