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Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it ForumIf you've got a problem you just can't figure out, a noise you can't diagnose, or a Check Engine Light that won't go away, ask about it here!
After replacing my radiator (O'rielys brand) and thermostat (Honda OEM) and driving a few months with no issues... a week ago the car started having issues again.
Temp gauge would rise up to a little below 3/4 of the way, turn heat on and rev engine, it would go back down to around normal....
Bleed cooling system again..... Tuesday sitting in a parking lot waiting on a friend, car went to almost 3/4 on the gauge and I noticed my fans were NOT running... so I hot-wired them in, Temp still didn't go down - The air coming from the fan was luke warm at best! Bottom radiator hose is barely warm to the touch, top one is fairly hot / warm.
Suspecting bad water pump, or the head gasket issue has just enough of a leak to cause air bubbles... I have not SEEN or smelled any coolant leaks, but I top off the reservoir, and after a while it's low again... Car is not leaving any puddles, or making any odd smells.
What defines these engines has being overheated causing warped heads? If the engine wasn't truly "overheated" would it be as simple as just replacing the head gasket and water pump? or would I need to get the head shaved milled? Because I cannot afford that.. I was thinking about buying a head off eBay (They are around $250-350) and replacing the whole head with the gasket, to save time - Seeing as this is my DD and I can't really have it sitting waiting for the head to be shaved
Is there any DIY way I can find out if there is a HG issue? Like a tool or something I can rent and do it myself?
There are some tests scattered around the forum to test for head gasket leakage. Check the first post in this thread
As far as the head, no matter what head you get (even if it's a head off of ebay), you'd want to get it checked for flatness. Local machine shop charged me like $130 to check and deck my cylinder head, and it was off by .004". Having a spare head laying around would, in fact, save you time, but that's just more money to spend.
When I attempted an emergency head gasket change (buying the bare minimum I needed) back in October, my bill ran about $~300 in head gasket related parts, but that did involve me taking a trip to the local Honda dealership and getting the head gasket kit and convincing them to drop the price by a lot because I could have gotten it wayyyyy cheaper online. They charged me ~$300 for the head gasket kit (even though I could've gotten it for $200 overnighted), and I happened to have a spare milled head laying around, had all the tools required to transfer everything over (cam, rocker assembly, valves, etc), and assembly lube to put everything back together. It would've run me a bit more in fluids (probably $60 in oil and coolant) if I actually got to finish the job.
If you decide to undertake the job, check out the headgasket link in my signature. It'll help a lot bit.
To check waterpump flow remove the radiator cap (top up coolant if needed) and from a cold start watch the the coolant flow inside the radiator neck (from a safe distance) when it reaches operating. Once it's up to operating rev the engine via the throttle pulley and see if the coolant runs more swiftly the higher the engine is revved. If the coolant flow doesn't seem to be moving well while revved it could be a sign of a failing/weak water pump.
Did you pressure test the coolant system for leaks? Start there first while the engine is cold if you haven't. Remove the distributor and check the heater hose directly under it..oil can leak (via distributor O-ring) and weaken that heater hose where it connects to the cylinder head.
Another item to check is the radiaotor stop-**** (hehe)..if it's not tightened completely it can leak a tiny bit that shows up as coolant loss in the resevoir. Some coolant hose connections can leak a very small amount and burn off on the engine without showing up as smoke or as drops on the ground.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 02-15-2018 at 09:41 PM.
The Dong-mobile (coupe-de Dong) stop-**** was leaking a tiny bit a couple weeks ago. Tightened it up and no more leak now. My engine vibrates a lot so it may be the reason the stopper loosens a bit occasionally.
You already know it has a head gasket leaking.....fix it!
It can run hot/overheat with less than a quart of liquid missing from the radiator
Well, I wish it were that simple! I lack space, time and tools. Not to mention, it's my only car - So Taking the head off, sending it to take HOWEVER long it takes for a machine shop to shave it down, then all the reinstall.... Yeh, I only have a 3 day weekend. I'm trying to find a person who will help me and has the tools.
Though, another "Honda" guy I've talked to said he thinks it's the waterpump, since revving the engine drops the temp back down.
So I am just gonna save up for a new waterpump, timing belt kit, new head gasket and get a new head... have IT sent off to be shaved, so when it comes time to do the job, I'll already have a head ready.
the tell tell that it's the water pump is the lack of a puddle...maybe not even a bad water pump just the seal...you'll only lose coolant from it really while the car is in motion hence the lack of puddle...still if you suspect a warped head get that taken care of too...
I'm buying an OEM radiator cap as a last ditch effort before I start doing the pump and stuff.
It seems like it's pushing it's coolant out of the reservoir tank - I was running abit behind and was pushing the car kind of hard, and when I came to stop - It was running warm again, I noticed when I parked and opened the hood that the reservoir tank was WAY overfull, and it was soaked and coolant was sitting in a puddle right below it. Someone said I *might* have a bad cap, so I bought one for $13 and if that doesn't fix it, I am gonna just go ahead and do the pump, timing and head gasket
with that being said, What's the best kit out there for the job? I'm talking something that's gonna last a while, is OEM or better and not cheap chinese **** like Rock Auto sells.
Sure. Also when you take that cap off make sure the surfaces in the neck of the radiator haven't been eroded by steam where both rubber gaskets on the cap have to seal.
Is there any DIY way I can find out if there is a HG issue?
In my world a blown head gasket on the D17 is pretty easy to prove and CAN take me less than 10 minutes.
Reply #2 in your thread included this link with instruction to read everything in the first post:
The second video in that post is mine.
I proved a head gasket breach and identified which cylinders have the problem, in under 10 minutes. No editing magic or anything.
What's the best kit out there for the job? I'm talking something that's gonna last a while, is OEM or better and not cheap chinese **** like Rock Auto sells.
IMO: OE/OEM is best for head gasket, t-belt, water pump, and timing belt tensioner pulley, and all the belts.
Your workmanship has to be stellar as well.
There's a few people that have reported extremely premature fails with felpro head gasket.
Timing belt tensioner---there are tons of horror stories about aftermarket units failing before the next oil change....and most failures wipe out the valves when they let go.
So here is an update. Got my OEM rad cap, flushed the cooling system and put straight water in it (For now, don't wanna waste money on coolant if it's gonna leak out)
Burped the cooling system... and so far so good. I think this might have been the issue... Because now whenever I turn my car off after driving for a while, I no longer hear what sounds like bubbling water. (assuming pressure backing up into the res)
Still not gonna hold my breath. Ordering new head, head gasket, all the other gaskets and gonna do timing belt, water pump and etc while I am at it.
So, another update. Beginning to think it's my water pump.. While it isn't leaving any puddles or making any noises - When I was flushing it, I had the top radiator hose off - I noticed (Even after running for 30+ minutes) that at idle there was BARELY any water flow, only way it would start flowing is if I revved it up. So will be ordering timing belt and water pump soon.
My 2000 EX does the same thing because it needs a head gasket. If I drive it easy around town I don’t have any problems, but on longer trips, like 100+ mi, and running 80-/+ mph it will puke exhaust gasses into the cooling system and eventually start pushing coolant into the overflow tank. Because the cooling system is pressurized, even when the engine cools off the coolant doesn’t flow back into the radiator.
My temporary solution has been to top off the radiator and leave the overflow tank almost empty. At the end of the day I CAREFULLY remove the radiator cap(and listen to the air burping out as the pressure is released) then pour the contents of the now full overflow tank back into the radiator.
I’ll bet you the price of the head gasket you need a new one.
My parts list list from Majestic Honda, but you can do it cheaper. I’ve got 240k mi on the engine so while it’s apart I’m replacing the front main seal, the oil pump o ring, cam oil seal, distributor o ring, water pump, timing belt and tensioner and added a few odds and ends hoping I don’t need to get anything else(like a exhaust manifold bolt etc etc)
EZone- I know I didn’t need to order the h2o pump gasket after ordering the pump, And that’s the wrong one. My pump is a Yamada, the gasket is for the Keihin pump (Doh!) but it was $4. If anybody needs one, let me know I’ll mail it to you. Sacto.
Last edited by Sactocivic; 03-19-2018 at 02:54 PM.
My 2000 EX does the same thing because it needs a head gasket. If I drive it easy around town I don’t have any problems, but on longer trips, like 100+ mi, and running 80-/+ mph it will puke exhaust gasses into the cooling system and eventually start pushing coolant into the overflow tank. Because the cooling system is pressurized, even when the engine cools off the coolant doesn’t flow back into the radiator.
My temporary solution has been to top off the radiator and leave the overflow tank almost empty. At the end of the day I CAREFULLY remove the radiator cap(and listen to the air burping out as the pressure is released) then pour the contents of the now full overflow tank back into the radiator.
I’ll bet you the price of the head gasket you need a new one.
Same here; just finished my son's car up last week. Driving around town and low RPMs "no problem" but highway speeds the coolant pushed into the reservoir. Used all Honda parts and car is running great now.
My 2000 EX does the same thing because it needs a head gasket. If I drive it easy around town I don’t have any problems, but on longer trips, like 100+ mi, and running 80-/+ mph it will puke exhaust gasses into the cooling system and eventually start pushing coolant into the overflow tank. Because the cooling system is pressurized, even when the engine cools off the coolant doesn’t flow back into the radiator.
My temporary solution has been to top off the radiator and leave the overflow tank almost empty. At the end of the day I CAREFULLY remove the radiator cap(and listen to the air burping out as the pressure is released) then pour the contents of the now full overflow tank back into the radiator.
I’ll bet you the price of the head gasket you need a new one.
I've just been leaving mine pretty much empty and rarely have problem - It does suck the coolant back into the rad...I can hear it bubbling (Sometimes) when I shut the engine off.
I do 100+ mile trips at 80+ and it seems to do fine... Just gonna end this now and do the head gasket, etc..
02-15-2018
