Aidanbrion34

Hello friends!
So, just a couple days ago I traded off my Miata for a B20B 1992 Hatch. And I've got a few questions about it!
first off: What did it come out of? Do they come out of CRV's?!
2nd : Motor makes a light ticking noise, dude says it needs a valve cover alignment? If anyone has another idea lmk.
3rd, when you push in the clutch it'll idle all over the place and occasionally shut off. Thinking O2 sensor? Any ideas lmk.

this is my second motor swapped Honda, and I'm glad to be back! I appreciate the help my dudes!

Wankenstein

If it's truly a B20B the B denotes it's a made in Japan "JDM" engine. Most likely from a CRV equivalent named Orthia. B20Z denotes made in America (USDM). There's a stamp on the front of the block near the transmission that you can inspect if you want to know for sure which one you have.

B20's come in both a low and high compression block. The low compression engine does not have a knock sensor and the high compression does. The high compression block is more coveted and more expensive because it's capable of more horse-power and torque. Here's the B20 specs:

B20B

1996-1998 specs
NON-VTEC
Found in: USDM and JDM Honda CR-V, JDM Orthia, Stepwgn, S-MX
Displacement: 1,973 cc (120.4 cu in)
Power: 126 hp (94 kW)) @ 5400 rpm
Torque: 133 ft·lbf (180 N·m) @ 4300 rpm
Rod length: 137 mm (5.4 in)
Compression: 8.8:1 or 9.2:1
Bore: 84 mm (3.3 in)
Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
Redline: 6300 rpm

B20B/B20Z

1999 - 2001 specs
NON-VTEC
Found in: USDM CRV as a B20Z, CR-V and Honda Orthia as a B20B
Displacement: 1,973 cc (120.4 cu in)
Power: 147 hp (110 kW) @ 6200 rpm
Torque: 133 lb·ft (180 N·m) @ 4800 rpm
Rod length: 137 mm (5.4 in)
Compression: 9.6:1
Bore: 84 mm (3.3 in)
Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
Redline: 6700 rpm

Most older Honda engines do make a light ticking noise so it's very possible it's normal. Start by checking engine oil level..add or drain oil to get to proper level. If that doesn't help then change oil and filter using recommended (service manual) oil weight. If that doesn't help perform a valves adjustment.

Is it a hunting idle, low idle or surging idle? Possibly an o2 issue..do you have a live data scanner to read 02 voltage, fuel trims, etc..?
The ECU is located on the passenger-side sidewall underneath the glove-box. Find the label on the ECU (may have to lower/remove) and post pics of it here. The ECU is most likely an P75, P28, P08 or other OBD1.
Swapped B20's often idle lean because the ECU is designed for a 1.8 liter engine and is now sending the same amount of fuel into a 2.0 liter displacement. I recently went through this same issue with my B20B swap and ended up replacing the ECU with a chipped basemap one and it runs very well since. I tried a new Denso (OEM) o2 sensor before replacing the ECU but it didn't solve the issue.

Aidanbrion34

Yeah! I get a pic of the ECU tomorrow. It'll idle really high (1.7k-2k) when it's cold startup, and after it barely warms up it'll idle super low, or get close to cut off, or may even cut off. It's most likely OBD1, I'm unsure though. I don't know the year of the B20B but I'm sure it's a B20B as I've seen it on the block. Once it's warm it definitely doesn't like idling. My last Honda had the same problem and it was fixed after a different ECU.

Wankenstein

Remove and clean the IACV and throttle body. Does your engine have a FITV..it shouldn't but, it might. If it does clean that too (youtube vids). After cleaning the TB and IACV clean the throttle blade return spring (located between TB pulley and TB outer housing/bore)..then spray a light coat of WD-40 on that spring. Also use a synthetic grease (ex: Napa Syl-Glide) and lightly coat the perimiter edge of the throttle blade and TB bore where the throttle plate is in closed position.

(per Ezone) Over-time/usage the throttle plate shaft can potentially sag causing throttle plate sticking and idle issues.
Mine was doing this and I considered replacing the TB. I figured I had nothing to lose so I lubed as mentioned above..after lubing it will work properly for a few months and then gradually start to stick again. Lube is cheap and I keep both Syl-Glide and WD-40 in my car in case I need to pull over and lube it again if it sticks. Takes less than five minutes.

Also, check the service manual for Idle Air Screw adjustment as that may help as well. Inspect throttle cable and adjust as necissary. A

Another thing to try is at operating temp idle spray throttle body cleaner spray into the TB/intake and listen for rpm's..if it rpm's raise and engine idle smooths it's a sign it's running lean.

Aidanbrion34

I've come to the conclusion it must be my ECU. How do I get a chipped basemap tune?

Wankenstein

Do you live in a state that requires cars to have emmissions test every year?

I ask this because I live in Florida and emmission testing is not required so I purchased an chipped basemap ECU that has the o2 sensor deleted (by request): does not rely on o2 sensor for fuel trims. I purchased it from Phearable: http://www.phearable.net/engine-comp...-vtec-ecu.html which is located in Trinity, FL.
The owner (John Vega) told me that most of his customer's purchase ECU's with the o2 deleted. Since purchasing an ECU from him my engine has a steady idle of 750 (-/+ 50) rpms. At all speeds under load it performs really well. John told me if I want it to perform as optimally (power/efficiency) as possible it will require a dyno tune. Howvever, I'm completely happy with this basemap and don't plan on getting it tuned.

Other reputable ECU sellers are:
HA Motorsports (California): https://www.hamotorsports.com/chippe...p-package.html
Xenocron (New Jersey): http://www.xenocron.com/chipped-obd1...l4hnf1hjb8vqq4

Is your's a Vtec or non-Vtec head?
Also, all those companies offer too solder in a scocket then install a basemap chip on your current OBD1 ECU for arounf $80. You can choose to solder it yourself $40. I purchased the complete ECU because I figured my P75's ECU issue might carry over if a socket and chip was added.

Aidanbrion34

Gotcha! Its a B20B non vtec. So I just purchase this ECU and plug it into my current ECU port? I've never really messed with ECU's before, so this is very new and scary haha! Do I just purchase the base options from the first link you sent me? (Phearable)
If theres any certain options I need to hit besides listing what my motor/car is, id appreciate it!

Wankenstein

Yes, unplug connectors from old ECU and plug in new. I removed the negative cable terminal from the battery first and turned on headlights to drain residual charge before installing the new ECU but not sure it was necessary.

Email Mr. Vega at Phearable and he will answer any questions you may have. He responds quickly and provides very good support.

I left all the options blank however, I did email him and asked him about the option of purchasing an ECU that includes an o2 sensor delete/disable via programming (not a listed option) because I live in a state that doesn't require emissions testing. He doesn't charge a fee to disable the o2 sensor.