Rough idle and dying ECU
Rough idle and dying ECU
Hello guys,
So I have a 92 Civic DX D15B7 block, in stock conditions. The car was running fine with exception of a terrible Idle issue which fluctuates as soon as the car is turned on (no RPM instrument on dash so I do not know where the revs are). It then blew the head gasket and got sent for repairs, got it back and the idle is still hunting me, drove it for like 2 weeks and the ECU got fried (crank, no start, solid CEL light with no codes when jumping the 2 pin cable), I know cause I changed the ECU and it started right away, drove for about 1 week and again the ECU Burned, this time i kept the old ECU before getting another, opened it and cap on position C14 burned thru the board and scorched the whole area.
I know the Fast Idle TV line is disconnected cause the part rotted and cannot attach a hose to it and the IAC valve may need cleaning/changing. The TPS is riveted to the TB so i'm planning on changing, (car has been jerking badly when driving in low RPM, like when slowing down for a speed bump)
No stereo or accessories have been installed on the vehicle recently.
My questions are:
Can a bad idle fry the ECU? (my theory is that it does not handle all the adjusting cause of the bad idle and just kills it)
What could cause my ECU dying symptom?
Could replacing the IAC and FITV solve the issue, or would there be another thing to check in regards to idle?
So I have a 92 Civic DX D15B7 block, in stock conditions. The car was running fine with exception of a terrible Idle issue which fluctuates as soon as the car is turned on (no RPM instrument on dash so I do not know where the revs are). It then blew the head gasket and got sent for repairs, got it back and the idle is still hunting me, drove it for like 2 weeks and the ECU got fried (crank, no start, solid CEL light with no codes when jumping the 2 pin cable), I know cause I changed the ECU and it started right away, drove for about 1 week and again the ECU Burned, this time i kept the old ECU before getting another, opened it and cap on position C14 burned thru the board and scorched the whole area.
I know the Fast Idle TV line is disconnected cause the part rotted and cannot attach a hose to it and the IAC valve may need cleaning/changing. The TPS is riveted to the TB so i'm planning on changing, (car has been jerking badly when driving in low RPM, like when slowing down for a speed bump)
No stereo or accessories have been installed on the vehicle recently.
My questions are:
Can a bad idle fry the ECU? (my theory is that it does not handle all the adjusting cause of the bad idle and just kills it)
What could cause my ECU dying symptom?
Could replacing the IAC and FITV solve the issue, or would there be another thing to check in regards to idle?
Re: Rough idle and dying ECU
Check all your fuses and make sure they're the correct amperage. What could be happening is there's a short somewhere and the higher amperage is what's stopping it from blowing like normal, and it's just continuously cooking the ECU. It's sort of what happened when I bought my TSX, and it sounds like it could be the issue.
I'd find what fuse is related to position C14 and see if it's correct.
I'd find what fuse is related to position C14 and see if it's correct.
Re: Rough idle and dying ECU
Check all your fuses and make sure they're the correct amperage. What could be happening is there's a short somewhere and the higher amperage is what's stopping it from blowing like normal, and it's just continuously cooking the ECU. It's sort of what happened when I bought my TSX, and it sounds like it could be the issue.
I'd find what fuse is related to position C14 and see if it's correct.
I'd find what fuse is related to position C14 and see if it's correct.
Under dashIt was a mess, to much to explain it, but I got all spots their proper fuse with exception of some.
I'll get those in the morning and then start it.
I'm ordering all parts to be changed. Wish me luck.
Re: Rough idle and dying ECU
So parts have not been ordered. Turned out my clutch slave cylinder was bad and the guy helped with the idle.
It was running ok, until it started idling super high and when in gear it's like I'm giving it all gas.
Could a bad TPS cause it?
Furthermore I know they messed with the throttle screw. Which TB could be a replacement without having to also get the manifold.ive seen TB with a MAP sensor, but my map it's on the firewall with a vacuum to it
It was running ok, until it started idling super high and when in gear it's like I'm giving it all gas.
Could a bad TPS cause it?
Furthermore I know they messed with the throttle screw. Which TB could be a replacement without having to also get the manifold.ive seen TB with a MAP sensor, but my map it's on the firewall with a vacuum to it
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Honda Civic Forum
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