Rep Power: 0

Hey Everyone, New to the world of Honda ownership. Just bought a 96 Civic 4 door with "132000" miles on it. Long story short, this is a "Get Out Of Debt Special" that needs to last me at least 3 years.

This is my first Honda to own after owning: 95' Sentra SE (GA16DE, MT, drover over 150k miles, 2004-2008), 93' NX2000 (SR20DE, MT, Drover over 100k miles, 2008-2013), 13' Forte 5 (EX, 2L, AT, selling to get out of debt).

I am mechanical skilled and am an engineer by trade, both Nissan's received new Engines by my hand.

So this 96 Civic had to of started life out at a EX (truck says EX, and it has a power sun roof), but at some point had a D16Y7 put in it (I think, the engine that is in there is not VTEC and has a down flow Intake Manifold). It also has a cheap @ss Ram Air intake installed.

I plan on doing a Timing Belt replacement just to be sure it'll last me these next 3 years. I've already fixed a few issues, and have a short list of thing to fix.
Long post for 4 simple questions:

1. The intake that is in there looks like it has a place for a Intake Air Temp sensor, but I cant find one in the engine bay at all. It runs fine as is, but if it should have a IAT sensor, then I would like to find it and get it installed correctly. So where on the Wiring harness/engine bay should I look for the IAT plug/sensor?

2. Speedo will only work about half the time. I plan on cleaning the plugs for the sensor at the engine and the cluster this weekend. If that dose not fix it what else should I look for? Would a Junk Yard Cluster be worth looking at? (My old Sentra had the same issue so that's why I think it probably has over 132k on it)

3. The hood latch wont latch the hood all the way down. Should i just loosen the bolts and move the bracket up? Also that hood rubs on that cheap RAI. Anyway to adjust how high the hood sits?

4. Any other issues that is common on these cars that I need to keep an eye on?

Thanks in advance for the help,
Zach

 
Rep Power: 210

If it is a Vtec engine it would have a Vtec solenoid like this one: http://s44.photobucket.com/user/hkse...re003.jpg.html
located as shown in this image: http://s155.photobucket.com/user/var...596-1.jpg.html (circled in red). Either way your car is better off with the cat-back exhaust which was standard on EX and SI models.

Best to also replace the following during TB replacement:
1) TB tensioner
2) Water-pump
3) Front crankshaft seal
4) Valve lash adjustment

Should have one on stock wiring harness. Maybe wiring harness was switched out? Google: https://www.google.com/search?q=1996..._AUIBSgA&dpr=1


One for Ezone or other more experienced member to comment on

Google: https://www.google.com/search?q=1996...tch+adjustment

Commonn issues:
1) Window regulators are known to fail
2) Window switch contacts
3) Check and/or replace PCV valve as soon as possible. Located above oil filter and best to do when oil filter is off. These often get neglected. OEM or Purolator (sold at most part stores)
4) Inspect all coolant & heater hoses and especially the heater hose under the distributor: distributor O-ring is a common part for oil leaks... oil can leak on that heater hose and cause splits and cracks. Bad hoses leads to coolant loss which leads to overheating which leads to blown head gaskets.

 
Rep Power: 518

First: Got fault codes related to it?

First: Got fault codes related to it?

When anything in the doors quits, check the harness in the door jamb. They love to break wires where they flex every time the door opens and closes.

 
Rep Power: 0

Had AutoZone pull the OBO2 codes.

P0700
P0113
P0135
P1758
P1705
P0753
P1768

So I guess the computer was from a AT car. But the vin number shows it is indeed a 96EX with MT produced in Canada. The only codes I think I should look at are: IATS circuit High Limit and HO2S-11 Heater Circuit Maldunction.

I did find the AITS and put it back into the intake. Should I reset the Computer, drive it around a week and have the codes repulsed?

I plan on checking the Light Switch today. I assume if it fails I just need to go get a new one?

Thanks,
Zach

 
Rep Power: 518

Yeah, not so much. Sounds like you bought someone elses' problems instead of a decent car.
But maybe it can be decent, IDK.
You'll still have all but the P0113.

I don't see a P0500 series code, so the speedo problem should not be in the sensor.
Got a scanner that can read live data? Got a scangauge or equivalent? You can watch VSS data right out of the computer, see if it remains consistent even while the speedometer drops out.


What's up with the lights? I didn't see that in the first shopping list.

 
Rep Power: 0

Well hopefully it'll survive 3 years of driving with out costing too much. Pay off $9800 or buy a $1500 clunker. For the difference I could rebuild the civic 3 times over. Just hope I don't have too.

I understand all of the AT codes will still be there, but how about the other two?

The issue with the instrument panel lights is: head lights off, instrument panel lights are on, headlights or parking lights on, instrument panel lights off.

Thanks,
Zach

 
Rep Power: 518

Well if you solve the problems causing those two codes, those codes will be eliminated from the list.
But the CEL will remain on all the time because of the rest of the codes that can't be fixed. You'll never know if another CEL problem crops up unless it causes an obvious running problem.

...............aftermarket radio? Aftermarket anything connected to the lights (alarm, remote start)?
Sounds like something that would happen after DIY wiring.
Look for anything that wasn't installed by the factory.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ran the VIN the other day. Turns out it is a 98 Civic EX from Canada. Nothing reported about it.

So after digging around for a bit I found a fix for my Instrument Panel Lights. Turns out someone else asked the same questions and found out it was there dimmer switch. I bypassed the switch and the Instrument Panel Lights worked as they should!

I plan on going by the junk yard next week to look for a working Speedo unit. Is there anyway to check it out at the yard? Or am I domed to Picking on, Bringing it home, Installing it, then finding out it dose not work, just to return it and repeat?

Thanks,
Zach

 
Rep Power: 518

Built in Canada is not the same as built for sale in Canada.
That's cool! I don't get to see cars that old and I don't remember ever having to figure that out.
Swapping in the parking lot is probably going to be the quickest way to find out. Take yours apart ahead of time and have it ready to unplug. Swap and drive down the road to check it out.