LXLaw

Quick Information:
- 2001 Honda Civic LX Sedan
- Automatic
- 165K miles
- Regular maintenance (oil, etc.) generally done prior to "recommended" schedule
- Only driving MAX of 30 miles a day currently (Grad school life)

Original Symptoms?
- 1 month ago: On the way to the store - drove to a stoplight (within 2 miles of the house) and the car shut off, but it started on the first try at the stoplight. Didn't think that much of it at the time.
- No check engine light was on
- The following morning - car did not start on the first try.
- It tried to turn over, but it was taking longer than usual so I pulled the key back out and put it in again.
- Second try, it started up
- Upon start: The sound of the car (engine, exhaust, etc.) "trailed-off," to my knowledge I've never noticed that before.
- Car didn't feel as "powerful" when I began driving, once the RPM gauge got around the 3, it seemed to strain.

*Bought an OBDII Scanner and decided to try that out (followed the directions, so we are good on that)
- Code? P1298 (FAULT)
- Electrical Load Detector Voltage High

- Called Honda, the tech said to just replace the ELD with a new Honda part. I did. Assumed that would "fix the problem." Nope.

Now + Original Symptoms?
- Car still has the starting issue (more often than not)
- Sometimes immediately after I start it, instead of putting it directly into drive I'll wait a second and half the time the engine just shuts off and I'll have to start the car again.
- It's cut off at 2 stoplights in the last 4 days
- Still no Check Engine Light
- Car NOW (the entire last week) seems to "cut out" while driving. For example: Driving at whatever speed, if I took at the RPM - instead of the usual increase and decrease (in the smooth way a typically RPM does) it'll decrease in a jump pattern. Not every decrease does that, however it'll go from 2.3ish to 1.4 in the blink of an eye. (Random numbers, obviously)

Fact: I honestly have no idea what to check, so any help would be great. I'll answer any questions to help. Thanks for the input.

Star1967

Try having a new key made. Also you might have a carbon and sludge build up on the valves and pistons. I recommend Lucas fuel cleaner. It comes in a transparent jug or bottle. Add it a bottle every tank full( I recommend a good high detergent gas 89-92 octane).

LXLaw

The key could cause all of that? Interesting. However, I'll call them Monday when they open.

Lucas Fuel Cleaner, I'll buy that after lunch today. Add it every tank for how long?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

The key won't do that. A faulty transponder chip in the key will not start the car, at all . It'll just crank for days

LXLaw

Then scratch that on the Key-call.

I left school an hour ago and almost did not make it to auto store (as in, the car shut off in the garage, on the road 4 times, stoplight once). That is the most it's ever done it within that short of a period. All within 15 minutes - 6 complete shutoffs.

However, it started right back up immediately after and the engine started fading out.

Star1967

For 2 months and then every other tankful since it will keep your engine clean. 1 bottle will treat 25 gallons. A clean engine will pay you back in fuel savings and repair costs. It costs under $9 here in Missouri($7.99 Flying J Truck Stop and $6 at Car Quest.

mac25

I wouldn't worry about any type of fuel system cleaner at this point, If an injector was clogged or if the fuel was bad you would have miss fire codes pretty consistently.

and since the issue is intermittent and there are no misfire codes I wouldn't think this was not fuel related.

It sounds like something is turning off the entire system, both fuel and ignition at once, similar to turning the key off.

I would start by checking all of your grounds, fuses and relays. inspect the ignition system and wiring. check the connections and wires on the ecu.