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My 98 coupe has a water leak that I have yet to find, over the weekend i pulled the interrior out and the csrpet to have a look at the floor and see if there is any work needed from the occasional sitting water.
So question is what is going to be the best solution for this? I was going to wire wheel and then POR15 it, the metal is not soft it just has rust on top of it. No holes.
The brace that runs accross the floor drivers side to passenger side under the seat also has rust on the inside of it and there is no way of getting at it. I debated cutting the top off ti clean and por then welding it back in place.
Any suggestions?
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Last edited by tyler8469; Mar 14, 2016 at 09:59 PM.
Wire wheel the rust off/remove the panel completely and weld in new metal.
Find the leak first, or it will just happen again.
Thanks GolNat, I plan to wire brush the floor best i can tonight and re assess. I spent a good five months looking for a decent clean shell nearby. Im in Ontario Canada and rust is a real problem that I dont want to deal with. The body of this car looks pretty good, just has the water leak, a small spot on rr quarter, and small spot under the rr window seal.
I guess the real debate is do I keep this car and wire brush and POR the floor, or do I sell and wait for a cleaner one to come around?
Im not sure how good of a fix the wire brush and POR15 will be. And I dont know how tough a floor pan or patch would be in that spot given the truck release mounts right there and that rigid hum is also there under the seat.
*** If i wire brush it, would you think cutting the top off that brace running accross the floor, and wire brishing under it would be a good idea?? Can weld the top of the brace back on no problem afterwards.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: Coupe Floor Surface Rust Solution!
trying to add pictures
I use an outside image hosting site (imigur, but any will do).... copy the direct URL of the image (xzxzxz.jpg or whatever) then come back here click the icon, paste the URL into the popup box. Click OK. done.
wire brush and POR15
Doesn't POR15 NEED the rust to be there in order to work? I mean I thought it does nothing until it contacts rust...
I use an outside image hosting site (imigur, but any will do).... copy the direct URL of the image (xzxzxz.jpg or whatever) then come back here click the icon, paste the URL into the popup box. Click OK. done.
Doesn't POR15 NEED the rust to be there in order to work? I mean I thought it does nothing until it contacts rust...
Thanks, ill get aome pics up so we can see what im talking about.
And your right POR15 needs rust to bond to. You are supposed to remove any scaly rust first however.
Ill just remove what i can with the qire wheel and POR overtop. Surely there is still going to be some left there. I wont go crazy with it but i want to get rnough off to see if its a bigger job than just wire brush and POR.
Main concern is that dam floor brace that i cant get inside of. The rust in there will be hard to do anything with unless i cut it and weld it back together afterwards. I also dont have any of the POR metal prep stuff, although i have used POR before without it and it worked out fine.
Since you are a canuuckian I don't know how hard it is for you to get things shipped across the border, but this company sells many unique rust repair solutions. They have a great rep in the old car restoration industry.
Judging from your pictures I would like do what you are doing. Wire wheel followed by por 15. I would get a can of eastwood rust convertor for frame channels for the brace. After everything was dry I would coat the entire floor with either a truck bed coating (herculiner, rhinoliner,etc..) or I would coat it all with a spray/roll sound deadener coating. I would use a coating such as this
I have never used it before and you can likely find something similar on your side of the border. I would seal the whole floor pan (including up the firewall and pillars a few inches)with a thick coating to prevent future rust creep.
Yeah i will use the POR on as much bare metal as i can. I didnt bother peeling up the sound deadening where it was still very well stuck on. But i wondered what i could use to put over the floor pan itself in order to get back some of that sound isolation.
They recommend not using rust converter anywhere your putting POR but i will attack the inside of that seat mount rail with it.
To be honest im still debating selling the car. I just do not want to have to deal with having to put a floor in it a cpl yrs down the road. These dam coupes are hard to find with a clean body, and this one looks great outside just that dam water leak caused this floor rust.
I did find one more spot under the bottom of the rr window seal. Looks like its rusting in the actual sealing area of the window. Which should also be fun to try and repair down the road. Lol. Should have been a body man.