Rep Power: 0

Okay...here's a list of my issues that a Chilton's manual won't help tell me what I need to know......I will be descriptive and try to stay on the timeline with each of these issues and separate them and let you know what I have done so far. Sit back and grab your popcorn, this is gonna be a long one!!!

I have a 1999 Civix HX A/T 1.5 VTEC-E with a CVT tranny. This has Keyless Entry and an aftermarket FOB made by ScyTek. I had to cut my siren because I needed to drive the car and I had no FOB at the time. Little did I know for the first drive after I cut the siren, the lights were still flashing but still would drive and locks would work. I refused to drive it not wanting to look like I was leading a parade with the lights flashing so I parked it and tried to reconnect the siren (without disconnecting the battery....I figured if it wasn't armed, there should be no problems with 2 wires....maybe I'm wrong) and when I connected it, the siren would NOT shut off but door locks, lights, FOB, valet & ignition all work. I even figured on letting the siren go off for about 5-10 minutes to reset itself might help......Sadly, no......

I WANT TO RECONNECT THE SIREN but it won't shut the Eff UP!!! How do I go about this???? I'll tell you what I know from reading similar threads and I believe this will transition into my second problem.....But I digress....back to the point.

I've located the keyless entry module by the left driver side kick panel.
P/N: 38380-S04-A020-M1
FCC ID: A269ZUA123
Didn't get the MFG name on the module but the FCC ID should suffice...

Now, I've traced the siren wire back to this unit (red/black - red) and I think I stretched the wire a bit because trying to strip off a new connection because when I reconnect the siren, it's muffled and sounds low. To test this, I test wired a piece of speaker wire to the siren (not the module) and tapped the battery with it. It was loud and annoying as usual.

Also, **INSIDE** the siren, what the hell is in there that is SOOO heavy? Is this the backup battery inside the siren I hear so much about but can never find and not sure if I even have one?
If I'm wrong, is there a battery backup for this module and if so, where is it???
Will discharging this backup battery and reconnecting the siren POSSIBLY close the loop I created by cutting the siren?
Did I really screw the pooch on this by cutting the siren and possibly damaging the module?
Can I reset/disable/re-enable the module with a few key twists and some button work without disconnecting the negative terminal, Key On, and driver door open for 30min?

NOW.......Problem #2 which is shorter and I've already done some work to make due but I want to do it right. When I first bought the car, the ignition would either turn over first shot, click like it's activating a relay and not kicking the solenoid over five or six times and then catch, or just keep clicking and would leave me stranded in a parking lot for at least 20 minutes and then it *might* work. Keep in mind, the alarm was functioning properly at this time too but here's my question. The ignition switch is getting power obviously and as for the clicking, I even got a few fuel pump relays from the junkyard and have swapped them out with the same erratic results. So, I got a momentary switch, some 10 gauge wire and connectors and made a ignition bypass for now. Works great EVERY TIME!!!!....

So now I ask:

Does my 99 HX have the ignition kill feature in the module attached? Or is this a separate optional component attached to the module? If so, where is it?
Does ANYONE have a wiring diagram of the siren to this control module so I can check for myself? My Chilton's manual is useless and incomplete.
Is there a possibility that the module was kinda shot and I didn't help matters much by closing the loop on the siren?
Are there certain relays externally that control the ignition kill AND/OR the alarm siren or are they internal in that control module? Can you open that module and service it??

I know I've written a friggin' novel, but I've been spending months reading and checking similar posts and MULTIPLE sites and forums using deductive reasoning since Chilton's wiring diagrams SUCK and with a few stupid questions added in that make me wonder some of the things I am asking.

I know I'm asking a LOT being my 1st post and a NOOB to here, but I'm out of options......PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!

Thanks,
Greg Philley

 
Rep Power: 518

Remove the entire aftermarket alarm system and if you have to have one, get a new one installed.

Prob 2 just sounds like it may be a flaky starter.

HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

It's the factory issued keyless entry system. All the wires go to it like the siren and valet switch. IF there is an aftermarket alarm in it, I don't see it. And yeah, I do need the alarm but don't have the time to go buy one and start a fresh install

As for the starter, it works first time every time with the bypass switch. I actually made a triangle with butt connector rings by splicing into the starter line and reconnecting the 2 wires in the connectors and adding one wire to the butt connector ring to the momentary switch.....

 
Rep Power: 518

I guess I read that part as an aftermarket system, sorry.

The parts with Honda part numbers should be an accessory security system the dealer installed.....but it honks the horn when it goes off (and flashes lights and disables the starter).

I didn't see a user manual in a quick search.

I did find install instructions and wiring diagrams for the dealer installed accessory system, there is no mention of any siren so I'm thinking that part is aftermarket and you need to follow the wiring to see where it leads.

Fob works but will not disarm the system??

There should be a small pushbutton disarm switch mounted in the dash panel near your left knee, just above the fuse box door....for the dealer installed Honda system.

If someone has wired up an aftermarket system on top of the dealer accessory system, I don't think I can be much help. Follow the wiring from the siren and see where it goes. It may have control over the lights and starter too.

 
Rep Power: 0

I did follow BOTH the valet switch under the dash AND the Siren (separately mounted on the drivers wheel well facing downward in it's own bracket in the engine compartment and is NOT connected to the horn) has 2 wires and it has a 2 pin plug that goes directly INTO the Keyless Entry Module itself.....and so does the valet switch plug. My Chiltons Manual shows it in diagram 21 **BUT** it's incomplete information and gives you about 80 percent of the info and it's missing leads/wires going TO and FROM it.

Yeah, I did that.....that's how I found the alarm and got the numbers off of it in the original post.... By the part number and seeing multiple pictures of the module WITH the SAME part number was what led me to what I was looking for and is described as a genuine Honda part installed by the dealer

Yes.....it locks and unlocks the doors and flashes the blinkers and tail lights without the siren attached....(never thought about counting the blinks instead of hearing the chirps until now....I'll do that tomorrow) but with the siren attached going off, the tail lights and blinkers blink continuously and I watch and hear the door locks lock and unlock.

My FOB is an OEM Replacement for Hondas......here is a link of the exact FOB I have


This is why I'm confused.....I've done a LOT of first and second level basic troubleshooting already. That's why I made such a lengthy post to show what I've done already.....

Any more suggestions???? I am thankful you took the time to read my novel to begin with and helping me with this.......between the 2 of us (or more people who respond to this thread) I'm sure we'll stumble across something!!!!!!!

Thanks again.....keep ideas coming!!!!!

 
Rep Power: 518

sent you a PM

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you....will research that option.....let you know what comes of it....

Also, I have friend who is a certified Ford Mechanic and he's got one of those EXTENSIVE OBD II scan tools that goes deeper that the regular ones....he used it when I bought the HX with a blown tranny and confirmed it was JUST the tranny. I bought the car for $500 and spent another $425 for a tranny......but I've read other posts that you MAY be able to use one of those scan tools to see exactly what the code/problem is and either clear it or know what to fix......I'm hoping that will work too......have you ever heard of this working on a '99 civic before or is this mainly for 2000+ models???

 
Rep Power: 518

It all depends on what the issues may be, how good the scanner is, how good the tech is, and all that. Lotsa variables.

Even though the data in powertrain controls since 1996 has been somewhat standardized with the advent of OBD2, those early cars simply had less usable data available from the computers--- even when using a dedicated dealer level scanner, which normally will have more data parameters available than aftermarket scanners, along with bi-directional controls.

Example, using a scantool to perform a forced EVAP system self test wasn't even possible on Hondas until around 1997-98ish.
IMO, some other manufacturers were light years ahead of Honda in computer and scantool capabilities, and still are.


Newer cars have more data and controls available, and they are faster, and the latest seem to have an almost overwhelming amount of data.... sometimes it's too much and other times it's still not enough.

 
Rep Power: 518

I found a CRV instruction set that has provisions for a siren, maybe you can browse this and glean some useful info?

https://www.handa-accessories.com/crv/crvsecmain.pdf


Other user manual links, but not for the correct year or model:

www.handa-accessories.com/civic/02civsecurity.pdf

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...qfX3nhPW6lefJw

 
Rep Power: 0

This link doesn't work......but the other ones do......I think I got what I need for now.....I'll let you know what happens........Thank you!!!!!!!

 
Rep Power: 518

maybe try copy and paste this and remove the spaces between the slashies

https:/ /www.handa-accessories.com/civic/02civsecurity.pdf