Rep Power: 211

Just did a block test (rented at O' Reilly's. testing fluid $8) followed directions. Tested longer than two minutes (closer to four) and it stayed blue. I have a two minute video of burping while at operating temp I'll post after I do a compression test and post results together.
No coolant loss from radiator after each test run.

Waiting for the engine to cool down before doing compression test. Some sites say to do cold, some say to do at operating temp. (more accurate), some say do while barely warm. I'd rather not do it while at operating temp and head expanded..might strip spark plug thread(s). Any suggestions?

I fixed the loose ECT dash gauge sending connector . I used a 3" piece of 3/8" coolant hose, split it and sleeved it over connector and towards main harness, put a small hose clamp at each end and wrapped in between clamps with electrical tape. Seems do be working fine so far.. snug over ECT tip.
Also, ran for about 20 minutes today (on jacks) and revved several times and no oil seen at engine/transmission seem... maybe not a rear main seal leak as I previously thought.. maybe just blow-by pressure from the previous stuck-closed PCV valve.

 
Rep Power: 211

Dry compression test results: done when engine below operating temp / slightly first line above "C" on temp gauge.

C1 = 190
C2 = 190
C3 = 190
C4 = 190

Very even compression. Did not do wet compression test.
Coolant bleed video later tonight or tomorrow morning... fixed my mom's lawn mower and now going to work.

 
Rep Power: 518

I dip em in engine oil.



How much material was removed from the head? 0.004"? Not enough to worry about.

I use a razor blade and brake cleaner or carb cleaner.
3M Scotchbrite is a serious NO NO.

 
Rep Power: 518

HOT The engine operates at operating temperature. Do the compression testing at operating temperature. HOT

It's FINE.

 
Rep Power: 211

Good to know.

I started out with blades and acetone but the blades would have a tendency to want to dig into the block..even at vertical and lightly scraping. I didn't know about the pitfalls of scotch-bright until after I used them. Scotch bright removed the few light surface scratches caused by blades. As I mentioned previously I:

1) vacuumed out the cylinders walls and piston tops twice
2) wiped cylinder walls and piston tops with oil and cleaned with lint free rag
3) three oil and filter changes (so far)
4) two coolant (water) changes

Will do oil again at 500 mile mark and followed by every 3K mark.

 
Rep Power: 211

I just did a second block test and this time lowered water in radiator more to be sure I was only testing vapors. I also tested the overflow tank and still stays blue. Looks like good to go to do timing kit. Going to run old accessory belts for a month before purchasing new OEM's online..just to make sure gasket holds.
The old belts are in good shape so shouldn't be an issue. Also plan to replace a couple more radiator hoses tomorrow before timing belt while coolant is drained out.

 
Rep Power: 211

When's this **** going to end.. now throwing a P1399 and P0301 code: http://engine-codes.com/p1399_honda.html

Model doesn't have an EGR valve ..possibly needs another valve lash but I double checked tolerances to Intake .008 and Exhaust .010.. torque spec'd nuts. Other reads online state it could be a valve not seating correctly..had a
valve lapp and new valve seals done at machine shop before head installation.

 
Rep Power: 211

yesh

 
Rep Power: 210

pull the valve cover and check the clearances again, make sure the engine has cooled down for at least 12 hours before checking,

if you still get the code it could be a problem with a valve/valves themselves

the P0301 is indicating a problem with cylinder 1




.

 
Rep Power: 518

Did you get the water pump figured out?

 
Rep Power: 211

Busy day today:
1) Removed the oil filter to see if there's water in it and none present.
2) With the oil filter out of the way I removed block drain bolt and drained coolant..also drained out radiator by removing lower hose and petcock.
3) Removed the valve cover and checked head bolts for for possible stripped threads.. none present all holding torque.
4) Rechecked valve lash and all were good intake = .008, exhaust = .010
5) Replaced timing belt, water pump, tensioner and spring.
6) Replaced front crankshaft gasket..paint can opener worked great..got it off in less than five minutes.
7) Installed lower timing cover and dipstick oil tube
8) Installed alternator belt

Stopped there and plan to finish installing A/C and steering pump belts tomorrow.
Second spark plug grommet is torn and will replace all four and valve cover gasket (have on hand). Should have it running tomorrow.
In hindsight I should have replaced oil pan gasket when I had the exhaust off.. looks like it's leaking from the oil pan gasket just below crankshaft.
I also plan to do another compression test before installing spark plugs.

I will approach the misfire codes when I get it back together.

 
Rep Power: 211

Yes. Silly me didn't remove the alternator bracket bolt to tilt bracket out of the way. Once, I did that the water pump practically fell off.
The old one is stamped Honda and just by eye test it looks to be more solid than the new Aisin. Being that the new Aisin water pump and Koyo tensioner are made in Japan..they should last a while.

 
Rep Power: 211

Got it all back together and no CEL's (for now anyway). Seems to be running good and I was doing a final leak check before taking it on the road. Spotted a coolant leak where the upper radiator hose housing meets the cylinder head. I used Hondabond as a gasket..is there a formed gasket for that housing? Aborted the road test and waiting until tomorrow to fix it.

 
Rep Power: 518

If it's the one I'm thinking of, no. You didn't find a gasket when you took it apart, right?

Use the Hondabond.
Get the coolant drained below the level of the hole so the sealer can stay dry.
Make sure the neck sealing surface isn't warped or bowed.
Clean both surfaces, smear the sealer on one part, put it together.
Let it sit until the sealer is cured before trying to refill the cooling system.
Read directions on the sealer to see how long it takes to cure.

 
Rep Power: 211

Thanks Ezone,

Yes ..there was Hondabond on it when I removed it and no gasket present. It was one of the first pieces I put back on and I let it set for a couple days or more before I tried it under coolant/pressure. It's possible it's warped but, it didn't leak on the prior starts ups until now. I will follow your directions and try resealing it. Is there a name for that part?

 
Rep Power: 518

The first time I saw one, I couldn't believe HONDA engineers didn't put at least an O ring on that neck. Oh well.

 
Rep Power: 211

I am using Yamabond 4 which from what I read is the same thing as Hondabond. It's cure time is 5 to 26 minutes. I have a tube of RTV black if that's any better?

 
Rep Power: 518

Permatex Ultra Gray is probably about the same too.

"Cure" or "skin over"? Skin over is getting the outer layer dry enough it doesn't stick to your finger when you touch it, but it's still wet and squishy inside.

Curing is hardening up all the way through.
Full cure achieved in approx 24 hours?

Your flange sealant has to hold pressure so I'd want it mating up nice and flat (metal to metal contact all the way around, no warp, no big gaps that have to be filled with sealer) let it sit and cure completely so it doesn't blow out.


I'd use the gray myself.

 
Rep Power: 211

Will this work ? : http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glu...eet/67682_0_0/

 
Rep Power: 518

Maybe, but the factory used RTV and got it to work. What went wrong?

 
Rep Power: 211

I don't know.. I may have put the sealant on too thick. The bolts seems to be holding tension fine. I think the machine shop I brought the head to may have milled that part of the head as well.,,where #6 http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...T+%28S%2CSI%29 (no bleeder screw)
mates to head. When I turned on the interior heater fan to four it stopped leaking (lessened pressure).

The only other changes I made today was putting clamps on the both ends of the overflow hose on both the radiator side and overflow tank side. I also wrapped Teflon tape around the overflow tank threads to make the cap more secure.. I poked holes in the Teflon tape to match the holes already located in the threads. During the prior test runs there has been coolant (water) loss from the overflow tank. Purchased a new Stant brand cap a month ago so it shouldn't be the issue.

 
Rep Power: 211

I think I found the problem..when I took the bolts off there was a fat bead of YamaBond at the tip of one of the bolts and some on threads. Both mating surfaces were cross-hatched so I pretty sure the machinist resurface them. I'm going to Autozone to look at that blue PVC gasket material, purchase a new upper radiator hose (weak at cylinder head side) and by a small blind hole thread cleaning brush. Do you know the torque spec for these bolts?

 
Rep Power: 211

I purchased the Fel-Pro (part# 3075) Rubber-Cellulose sheet and made a gasket for it.
Before I installed I spoke to Fel-Pro technician (HQ in Michigan) and asked him if I should use HondaBond or RTV in conjunction with their product and said "no" as it may compromise the seal. He also said once the rubber-cellulose sheet is heated it's top layer has a heat activated sealer that helps bind and seal. The sheet is quite thick + fairly flexible and seems like it would be very forgiving for most coolant related mating surfaces.

Installed new top radiator hose, filled and bled 50/50 coolant, checked for leaks and none present before test drive. Drove for about 45 minutes stopping periodically to check for leaks and engine idle. Also shut the engine off and restarted it a few times and all seems well. Got back home and put a large, flat metal drip pan under it for 10 minutes while idling.. no oil or coolant leaks present.

One (possible) bad sign: Coolant in over-flow tank still lowering. Not sure at this point what it means as it's possible the coolant system is still burping.. is concerning though..I expect the coolant in the radiator to be a bit low and need one last top up after it cools down (or next day) post coolant drain and fill/ head-gasket repair.
Any thoughts?

 
Rep Power: 518

Same as most other 6mm bolts on the engine?

The level WILL change as the engine heats and cools. This is why there is a lot of extra room in the reservoir above the full line.

The level will change and drop if the system is still expelling trapped air, getting it worked out.

Watch it, keep it from going empty.
Once it has had some good run time and a few heating and cooling cycles, it should become much more stable, and return to the same level after every cooldown.

At that point you could top it off to the FULL line when the engine is cold...... After that, when the engine is cold and you check it, it should still be at that level. (If you check it with a hot engine, it will be far above that level.)

 
Rep Power: 211

I torqued those bolts to a snug fit but, not over-tight...the gasket is not leaking at all.


Okay.. very good to know and I'll keep a close eye on it and keep it filled. I'm carrying around some 50/50 mix in the trunk too.

The engine is idling really well but almost feels like a slight miss under load. This may be related to ECU relearn and I haven't used a timing light on the ignition timing yet.. my friend has one I can use Wednesday.
Turns out it is leaking oil..after I turned it off and let it sit for an hour there was about an ounce or two on the metal drip pan. Drip coming from front of engine directly under camshaft pulley area. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the oil pan gasket as I mentioned in a previous post. Hope it's not coming from the new front camshaft seal I installed. Thanks Ezone,

 
Rep Power: 518

Some cam seals have to be driven deeper than flush to get both seal lips in far enough to do their job.

I've seen more than one only installed flush, and leaking profusely. I remember being able to see the outer lip totally not making contact with the cam. Another 1/8 inch was all it needed to seal it up LOL

 
Rep Power: 211

I don't have the right size/depth socket to push that seal in. I used the outer diameter of a closed end wrench (wrench width same size as seal width) and lightly tapped the seal in while working in a circular motion. Can't recall if it was flush or further in. I saw the oil pan seal leak when I had the crankshaft pulley off.. leaked a bit when I manually turned engine over. I guess I'll be under the car soon again.

 
Rep Power: 518

Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Hardware store: PVC pipe or fittings! take your old seal in and see what sizes you can find to use.
If it comes down to that.

 
Rep Power: 211

Okay.. I was so tempted to leave that old crank seal in because I saw it wasn't leaking.
But, since I paid for a new one and I had the timing gear off I figured I'd change it.
I'll replace the oil pan gasket first and if that' doesn't fix it then the crank seal.

 
Rep Power: 518

Crank seal should be OK driven in flush....but
I swear you were talking about the cam seal?