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I was worried about tightening it until it creaks, then keep tightening a lot more.

14 ft lbs is about how tight a spark plug should be.
Then you mark the bolt and pulley with a sharpie or nail polish and tighten the bolt a quarter turn.


Edit more again: Ever seen the end of a crank broken off from overtightening the bolt? I have.

EDIT: Brownish stuff that floats is probably oil that got in when the head was yanked off.

Edit more: You will need to drain and fill more than once with 50/50 as there will be a lot of water left in the system after draining the radiator. Got a good antifreeze gauge?

 
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I have not seen broken crank bolt and don't want to start with mine. I better redo it by the book for a piece of mind. From jack-stands to road test I assume would be quite a different load on that bolt.

Thanks.. more good info to store for current and future use. I'll pick one of these up: http://www.autozone.com/heating-and-...er/525881_0_0/

The test run will end up being Monday. Going out of town for a few days and I woke up late and not in the mood for getting greasy today.

 
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i have not, however that thought is always in my head when im tightening it up, thats why im always afraid to go too tight, i have never had one come loose, so i guess what im doing should be fine

 
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Not the bolt, that would be somewhat easy to fix.
I said the crank. As in crankshaft.
The end of the crankshaft can break off (worst case scenario).
You'd have the stub of the crank along with the pulleys,the overtightened bolt still intact, and maybe a pile of bent valves if it happened at speed.
You might even see the crank pulley pass you along the side of the road as you are coasting to a stop LOL

I've seen it happen at this shop on a couple older Accords, and both happened a good 2+ years after the timing belt was done (by someone else, not me).
I've seen it on several Mazdas too, back when I was at one of their dealers.
They either get a crankshaft, an engine, or hauled to the scrapyard.


Honestly though, I use my impact gun on crank bolts all the time, but I'm very familiar with my gun, I'm careful with it and I can't condone the use of my methods for anyone else.
I picked up the exact same type from Walmart, it was garbage. It could not read brand new antifreeze correctly.

For a cheapie tester, I have found this to be sufficiently accurate:



For even more accuracy, a refractometer is best--- but not cheap.

HTH

 
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I'm scared straight now (80's TV reference) FSM shall be followed.

What years were you at Mazda? I currently own an '07 Mazda 3 sport (2.3L) 168K miles and previously owned an 07 Mazda 3i (2.0L) 93K before totaled in accident and both are/were really reliable, fun cars. The engine mounts and struts are suspect though. On the 3i the a/c blower motor and resistor went out.. a cheap fix on a Honda but, the 3's (as you may know) almost the entire center console/dash needs to be taken apart.

I'll look around for a better coolant tester. The new timing belt kit and crank seal arrives today according to an email I received from Amazonia (land of everything and arch nemesis of Walmart). I feel that going through the learning curve (painful and laughable for you and Mikey1) in the retension process of the old belt, I have a better understanding for the new install. Maybe I'll even let the "auto" tensioner do it's job on this one..lol. I watched a video of guy who used a paint can opener to remove the crank seal..yes/no? any tips? Also, best way to keep crankshaft from moving during new belt install?

 
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uuummm.....just dont touch it

it should stay in position,

if it does move a SMALL amount just turn it back into position in the OPPOSITE direction that it moved, just dont go doing a half or full revolution or something like that

 
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Thanks mikey

 
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Watched it.


88-97. I'm glad to be away from them because I really detest Ford as a manufacturer.

Ford engine
Mazda engine

Those are both far too new for me to have intimate knowledge.

I certainly hope parts are of decent quality. "Made in China" is not what I like to hear.
If anything fails and the timing belt lets go, you trash the valves.
Please refer to your own statement about following the FSM.

Seen it. Looks doable but I haven't tried it.

Deal with it correctly if it does turn.

 
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you can use whatever you want, as long as you don't damage the sealing surfaces on the engine and the crank

i have seen guys screw a self tapping screw into the old seal, then grab the screw head with pliers to pull the seal out

 
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http://usnews.rankingsandreviews.com...a-to-Separate/
Both of my Mazda's were built in Japan (according to stamp on door and engine bay) never had one engine issue or oil leak unlike a Sieve-ic..lol. I know they had a long partnership with Ford and the 3 has been best in it's class for the past decade. To be fair though other than my mom's 2004 Civic I haven't been in another made in the 2000's. Engine tolerances (from what I've read) are much tighter in modern cars compared to the 90's so, newer civics probably don't leak oil the way they used to. Please don't get this wrong as I like both Civics and 3's. I believe Mazda is to the 2000's what Honda was to the late 80' and throughout the 90's.

I'm sure you know the following already. I am going by internet sources:
Aisin water pump: made in Japan and current OEM supplier for Honda 6 cylinders, Toyota, Nissan
(Yamada was supplier during years 96-00)
Koyo Tensioner : high quality OE made in Japan
Timing belt: Mitsuboshi (made in Singapore) Japanese parent company, Several threads I came across listed them as OEM supplier for Subaru and Honda. I lived in Singapore for four years and it's one of the most modern city/countries in the world. Much closer to Japanese manufacturing standards than Chinese, although 85% of it's population are of Chinese decent.
I asked the seller to confirm the manufacturer's and those listed above are what he told me is in the kit.

 
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I guess I like to get in my own way often. I thought I'd save some money and time buying cheap accessory belts at a local parts store. Turns out quality of parts is *** and I can Honda OEM for $48 at Amazon..only $15
more than **** brand local. I doubt if I will ever buy at local parts stores again. Rebranded garage that's overpriced.

 
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Aisin make decent parts, and Mitsuboshi make decent belts.....but that Koyo tensioner throws up a big red flag for me....saving a bit of money now on a tensioner like that could end up costing you alot of money if it ever lets go

 
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It looks like OEM is Koyo Seiko..http://www.hondapartscheap.com/oe-honda/14520p2a305 Not sure if Koyo and Koyo Seiko are one in the same or different manufacturer's or may have split from each other (doesn't Seiko make watches?). The Koyo tensioner I purchased is made in Japan.
Oddly enough the Mitsuboshi I got is stamped "made in USA".

I was too lazy to do timing belt kit install today so I just did a drain and refill of distilled water in coolant system and retensioned alternator belt,, no more squeal. Burped coolant (water) and ran long enough for fan to kick on twice. Now when I rev it up right at 3500 rpm the temp gauge needle on the dash bottoms out for a second or two and the climbs back up.. temp gauge stays at about 1/3 (normal mark) otherwise.

The harness piece/connector that slides over the ECT sensor (under distributor) is cracked but, it loosely stays in place. Maybe air bubbles in coolant system? Reading through a few threads with same issue could also be head-gasket. .. not panicking yet though.

One sign of possible news is before I started the head gasket teardown I though for sure it had a rear main seal leak. During HG breakdown I changed the PCV which was stuck close (wouldn't rattle when shaken) I didn't replace it since we purchased it until a week ago and now I haven't seen any oil in that area each time I ran it so far. Not sure it means anything until I get it on the road though.

 
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Car cooled down and rechecked water in radiator..full to top. Disconnected negative terminal and reset ECU. ran engine to operating temp, then revved engine from inside car, temp gauge still bottoming out. Had son sit in driver's seat and rev engine to various RPM's while I held ECU connection..son said it did not bottom out or move off of 1/3 mark.. looks like loose connection.

I plan to do timing belt Wednesday and if radiator is still full to top I will take that as a positive sign. Will drain again before doing timing belt. Might have to find a connector in junkyard and splice it in.. really hope that's all it is.
I did something.. now looking back that was stupid.. I boiled water to distill it and let it settle to about 120 farenheit (checked with thermometer) until I poured it in the radiator. It operates at higher temp than that but takes time to warm up to that..don't know why the hell I didn't consider that first.

 
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That's a lot easier than other stuff LOL

Uhhhh....that's not distilling, that's just heating the water.

Condensing the steam and collecting it is distillation.

 
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Those connectors seem to crack easily when they get older.. are they ceramic wrapped with metal?

Okay, thanks for the science 101 Ezone .. I can't even figure that out and I expect my head gasket replacement and timing belt to go well..lol

I'll buy some jugs of distilled Wal-water to flush it one more time before I add 50/50 mix after timing belt kit. When I drained it from radiator petcock earlier today it looked pretty clean surprisingly.. although it' only half as rest is in engine and hoses. I didn't open the block drain above the oil filter.
Would tiny bubbles during burping mean head gasket leak?

 
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Metal terminal inside a plastic shell usually.

Mechanic math 101: (LOL)

Don't get 50/50 pre mix. Get straight antifreeze and fill it up.

The plain water sitting in the engine that you can't get drained out through the radiator drain will make your straight antifreeze end up somewhat close to 50/50 without multiple tries and wasting a bunch of premixed antifreeze.

Fill it, run it for an hour to get it all mixed up with the plain water, then let it cool down and test the freeze protection level to see what the mix ratio actually came out at.

 
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late edit on my previous post:
Would tiny bubbles during burping mean head gasket leak?

 
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Getting all the bubbles out is part of burping.

 
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Thanks. I remember on my previous 6th gen civic when I did a drain and refill there were tiny bubbles that never seemed to fully stop.. it didn't have a head gasket issue.

 
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Oh hey, while letting it burp the cooling system, turn the heater to max hot but leave the fan turned off.

This helps circulate liquid through the heater core and still get the thermostat to open in a reasonable time.

 
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Thanks..I have been doing that so far. Would I be able to smell emissions in the radiator if the HG was blown? I plan on renting a block tester and checking it soon. Should I recheck the head bolts torque too at this point?

 
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not likely



that probably will not work on these engines

 
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That's how I found the initial leak.. blue dye turned yellow.

 
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I really hate to ask this but......... How did you tighten the head bolts?




If the service manual instructions were followed correctly and accurately, head bolt recheck and retorque is not necessary.
However...If you didn't follow the instructions you may want to.

 
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As per the factory service manual:

1st step: (bolts 1-10) 14ft/lbs
2nd step: (bolts 1-10) 36ft/lbs
3rd step (bolts 1-10) 49ft/lbs
4th step (bolts 1-2) 49ft/lbs

bolt torque sequence:

9 3 1 5 7

8 6 2 4 10

Number 3 in torque sequence was the one that needed the helicoil... piggybacked two helicoils per company technician's advice...bolt/washer sitting flat on deck..checked with feeler gauge around circumference as best I could.
Used a light coat of oil for all bolt threads and light grease (film) under and on top of washers to help prevent creaking during torque specs.

 
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i believe the instructions specifically say NOT to use oil or any lubricants on the bolt threads (not 100% positive though)......ezone?

 
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FSM 6-26 states: Prior to reassembling , clean all parts in solvent. dry them and apply lubricant to all contacts parts.

FSM 6-84 Cylinder Head installation under Notes state:
Apply clean engine oil to the bolt threads and under bolt head.

Using grease was a tip I found online. Really not sure if is an issue or not in this case. My assumption is most of the grease would squeeze out under compression.

A bigger issue might be : FSM 6-84 Cylinder Head installation under Notes state: If a bolt makes any noise while torquing it, looses the bolt and re-tighten from step 1.

Bolt 9 in torque sequence was the only bolt that made noise. I did loosen and re-tighten to prevent stripping/breaking but, I didn't go all the way down to first step as I should have.

I've seen a few videos and some threads that people tightened final spec to 51 ft. lbs but, I stuck to 49 ft. lbs.

Another possible issue is (after doing research) after head was re-surfaced it lost height which could be an issue causing the (new) stock length head bolts to be too long. Solution would be to add an additional washer. I don't think this is an issue with mine but, you guys would know better than me.

 
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how did you clean the gasket surfaces?

 
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Described here: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...cylinders.html in thread reply #3 and further in other replies.

Used 3M and acetone for block cleaning. Gasket wiped with lint free cloth and acetone. Cylinder head (after resurfacing) wiped with lint free cloth and acetone.