sekhonjatt

So its been quite a while and this weird grinding/crunching noise have been coming from the rear driver side. It happens in the morning or when i havent driven the car for 3-4 hours. So whenever i start driving the car, there is a continuous grinding/crunching noise coming from rear driver side which then fades away once i have driven a mile or if i am going too fast. Another thing i have noticed is that whenever i am making a left turn, the noise disappears but comes back on after completing the turn.

The only thing i could figure out could be the hub bearing. But yesterday i sprayed some WD-40 around the drum brakes and around the CV joints and the noise has reduced to some extent. So is it really the hub bearing or is it something else ?

I will really appreciate any help

Thank You

go-part

If there is a good amount of vibration coming from the rear then your guess may be correct.

sekhonjatt

There isn't any vibration in the car, just the weird grinding/crunching noise. Also when making turns the noise goes away but comes back on when i finish the turn. So is it possible that it is the hub bearing ?

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Time to remove the drum and check out what's going on in there

nsxvtec

What vehicle??

CRV????Civic??? 4 wheel drive??

You talk about spraying wd 40 around the cv joint. at the r rear wheel??

Could be a number of things including the wheel bearing.

Brake components inside the drum could also be the problem.

sekhonjatt

I apologize for not listing the vehicle. Its 1999 honda civic HX (coupe). I was planning on removing the drum this past weekend but didnt knew what to look for. As in how would i tell if its my bearing or something else, maybe rear drum brakes?

I really don't want to spend money on a mechanic unless its impossible to do it on your own. But from what i have read in other posts is that 70% is the hub bearing assembly. But my question is how to tell if the bearing is bad?

PS. I sprayed WD-40 over ball joints and the rear drum brakes (all around).

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Hmm rear bearings could a little trickier to diagnose. Jack the car up and put it on a jackstand. Put the suspension under a little bit of load with your jack (raise it a few inches) not using the tire, but the actual lower arm. Put your hands at the 12 and 6 O'clock positions of the tire and see if there is any movement up and down with the tire. If there is it usually accompanies a "Click" of metal to metal. Then, lower the suspension back down release the E brake and spin the tire. Check for the grinding noise / play. Remove the drum just to make sure everything is in place like it's supposed to be.

Next time you spray the suspension bushings etc. use lithium grease in the form of a spray. Much more efficient than wd40 and lasts a lot longer

nsxvtec

Hold off on the wd 40/ lub on the brake drum. You really don't want to do that, as that stuff could find it's way inside and onto the shoe friction surfaces.
I agree with previous post. If the rear brake components are all fine, it will most likely be the wheel bearing. They can make a real racket and drive you nuts. Also rust and crud etc. can build up on the drum at the lip where it just fits over the backing plate, rub and make a hell of a racket, especially if a piece of rust or a small piece of the drum lip breaks off and gets trapped between the rotating drum and the backing plate.

You can buy the rear bearing/hub assembly and it is pretty easy to do with with decent tools.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

There is a great DIY on this site too on the rear drums. Most important thing is to do one side at a time so you have a complete side to look at make sure you get all the springs right.

sekhonjatt

I really appreciate everybody's help. I just bought the wheel bearing and will be removing the rear drums this weekend. I will post again once I have changed the bearing.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

If you don't mind me asking how much was the bearing?

ohanahorse

Hi,
I, actually working with this issue now. Go to Youtube and look at brakes and rear hub videos (that will explain a lot)...it's easy (if you have the tools and basic kniow how). I ordered the hub assembly from ebay for 23 including shipping.
If it is a bearing (most likely) it should make more noise turning L or right depending if it is a bearing. Mine has a bad passenger rear bearing. Turning right it makes more noise (putting weight on bearing) and turning left the noise mostly goes away (bearing has little load on it).
You may need to replace brakes if the bearing lost it's grease also. Youtube is your friend as there is lots of information on how to
good luck

sekhonjatt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WHEEL-HUB-AN...:X:EAC:US:3160

This is what i have ordered. It comes with a lifetime warranty .. Also I havent got the chance to put on it yet as i have lost my damn lug lock keys . I am planning on going to either lowe's or harbor freight and hope they have some sort of hex key that will fit into my lug locks.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

A wheel hub and bearing for 30 dollars? hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm... Let me know if it's decent quality because I'll be very very suprised...

sekhonjatt

I think in my scenerio, my rear driver side bearing is worn out so whenever i make a right turn the noise goes away. Again, I havent got the time to jack up my car and look inside the drum. So i really cant say much. Hopefully i am not too packed this weekend. But will definitely look into those youtube videos

sekhonjatt

Thats what i was thinking too. I looked into the honda dealer website (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/) and they are charging almost 112$ without shipping. So i am kinda skeptical as of now. But lets see what happens.

ohanahorse

The good news is I have received the hub (with bearings). Bad news is it's the wrong one. The seller, once we determined the add was confusing, credited me immediately for the full purchase price (including shipping). Also gave me the correct part number to order (they did not have the correct one). Also told me not to bother shipping back as it was not cost effective for them. I'm guessing this one is for ABS. If anyone is interested...part number is 512034, and should be 512035 for my application.
The hub and bearings appear to be as good as factory, but only time will tell. Since it was a rear bearing, I'm willing to give the aftermarket a shot for the price. Wrecking yard wanted 30 and I had to pull-go figure