Amplifier + New Ground Cables
08-31-2013
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Amplifier + New Ground Cables
Car: 2001 Civic EX Manual
Speaker: JL 10" Woofer
Amp: Alpine M500
Amp Kit I will be buying
Questions:
Is there a special procedure I should follow to not electrocute myself? I've read through the stickies...
Speaker: JL 10" Woofer
Amp: Alpine M500
Amp Kit I will be buying
Questions:
- Is it worth getting new terminals? If so what are some good ones, relatively cheap
- In the picture, 1, 2, and 3 are the locations of the current ground wire, I'm going to make these all gauge 4 wire, any issues here?
- In wire 1, is that supposed to connect to the bolt I circled?
- The Orange wire looks like it was from a previous installation...going to replace that as well with another gauge 4 wire
- The number 5 wire, the positive cable that runs to the battery, is it safe to upgrade this to gauge 1 or even 0? Should I leave this one alone? I have no idea what gauge it is currently.
- What tools do I need to crimp a connector on the end of the wires? Soldering necessary?
Is there a special procedure I should follow to not electrocute myself? I've read through the stickies...
08-31-2013
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Re: Amplifier + New Ground Cables
theres no reason to not upgrade all your ground wires with 0 guage this procedure is called The Big Three search that term. and holy **** #1 is a complete hack job look here https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...t-ii-pics.html
Last edited by lowlife9; 08-31-2013 at 09:42 PM.
08-31-2013
#3
Prelude Owner
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Re: Amplifier + New Ground Cables
1.) The terminals you have look fine. May want to get a better positive one so that it will fit the larger gauge cable. Similar to this:
Doesn't need to be gold plated or anything fancy, just makes it easier IMO.
2.) Nope. 4 Gauge is good. Shortest distance possible.
3.) You #1 appears to be near your coil pack wires which are going where they should be.
4.) Good Idea. I would run it along the left side so you cant see it as much.
5.) Just leave it alone. No need to upgrade it since it does not effect the amp any and is already sized appropriately for the car.
6.) With the instal kit it should have a terminal on one end to connect to the battery then the other end will be just be stripped back and screwed to the amp terminal. For the ground wire it will be the same thing except you want to ground it the chassis of the car close to the amp. Less then 1 foot I believe is ideal. I used the bolt that holds the seat belt clip. Make sure to sand away any paint to get a good ground. You can buy crimpers if you would like but no need. Soldering would be for the smaller wires like for the remote turn on wire.
Just unhook the battery before beginning and you will be good. Its only 12V so it wont electrocute you but you could short circuit something or weld a cable to something if you don't disconnect the battery.
Doesn't need to be gold plated or anything fancy, just makes it easier IMO.
2.) Nope. 4 Gauge is good. Shortest distance possible.
3.) You #1 appears to be near your coil pack wires which are going where they should be.
4.) Good Idea. I would run it along the left side so you cant see it as much.
5.) Just leave it alone. No need to upgrade it since it does not effect the amp any and is already sized appropriately for the car.
6.) With the instal kit it should have a terminal on one end to connect to the battery then the other end will be just be stripped back and screwed to the amp terminal. For the ground wire it will be the same thing except you want to ground it the chassis of the car close to the amp. Less then 1 foot I believe is ideal. I used the bolt that holds the seat belt clip. Make sure to sand away any paint to get a good ground. You can buy crimpers if you would like but no need. Soldering would be for the smaller wires like for the remote turn on wire.
Just unhook the battery before beginning and you will be good. Its only 12V so it wont electrocute you but you could short circuit something or weld a cable to something if you don't disconnect the battery.
08-31-2013
#5
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Re: Amplifier + New Ground Cables
^ yea I couldn't tell from the pic but I think your right. It does look liked its wrapped around. That's not doing anything! Very rusted, also not good.
08-31-2013
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and what the hell is that yellow thing going through your battery tie down the battery isn't even tied down your pic is like like looking at a where's waldo book every time i look i see something else wrong. also what happened to member gearbox that guy was so informative i miss that guy no homo.
Last edited by lowlife9; 08-31-2013 at 10:52 PM.
08-31-2013
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theres no reason to not upgrade all your ground wires with 0 guage this procedure is called The Big Three search that term. and holy **** #1 is a complete hack job look here https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...t-ii-pics.html
1.) The terminals you have look fine. May want to get a better positive one so that it will fit the larger gauge cable. Similar to this:
Doesn't need to be gold plated or anything fancy, just makes it easier IMO. What would a good crimper be for Gauge 0/4 wiring?
2.) Nope. 4 Gauge is good. Shortest distance possible.
3.) You #1 appears to be near your coil pack wires which are going where they should be.
4.) Good Idea. I would run it along the left side so you cant see it as much.
5.) Just leave it alone. No need to upgrade it since it does not effect the amp any and is already sized appropriately for the car.
6.) With the instal kit it should have a terminal on one end to connect to the battery then the other end will be just be stripped back and screwed to the amp terminal. For the ground wire it will be the same thing except you want to ground it the chassis of the car close to the amp. Less then 1 foot I believe is ideal. I used the bolt that holds the seat belt clip. Make sure to sand away any paint to get a good ground. You can buy crimpers if you would like but no need. Soldering would be for the smaller wires like for the remote turn on wire.
Just unhook the battery before beginning and you will be good. Its only 12V so it wont electrocute you but you could short circuit something or weld a cable to something if you don't disconnect the battery.
Doesn't need to be gold plated or anything fancy, just makes it easier IMO. What would a good crimper be for Gauge 0/4 wiring?
2.) Nope. 4 Gauge is good. Shortest distance possible.
3.) You #1 appears to be near your coil pack wires which are going where they should be.
4.) Good Idea. I would run it along the left side so you cant see it as much.
5.) Just leave it alone. No need to upgrade it since it does not effect the amp any and is already sized appropriately for the car.
6.) With the instal kit it should have a terminal on one end to connect to the battery then the other end will be just be stripped back and screwed to the amp terminal. For the ground wire it will be the same thing except you want to ground it the chassis of the car close to the amp. Less then 1 foot I believe is ideal. I used the bolt that holds the seat belt clip. Make sure to sand away any paint to get a good ground. You can buy crimpers if you would like but no need. Soldering would be for the smaller wires like for the remote turn on wire.
Just unhook the battery before beginning and you will be good. Its only 12V so it wont electrocute you but you could short circuit something or weld a cable to something if you don't disconnect the battery.
I'm just confused on how I would connect #5 cable to this? Would I have to replace the wire anyway then? I'm assuming it's a one piece deal on that terminal and wiring.
08-31-2013
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honestly anything is better then stock gauge wire im not sure what they were thinking when they used that. if you look at the diy i gave you thats the proper location designated for that perticular ground wire not its current location.plus like golnat said the shortest distance between grounds is what you want not wraped around the battery like your current setup. and yeah platinum finnish sounds good to me even i don't have platinum finnish on my terminals im guessing bill gates has those.
Last edited by lowlife9; 08-31-2013 at 11:06 PM.
08-31-2013
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If I got the Raptor Terminal thing I linked to my last post, would I need a new cable for the positive battery cable? I think the red plastic part is attached to the stock terminal block
08-31-2013
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nah you just need to remove its current location and crimp on the new one but be careful not to shock yourself or fry your wiring.just be cautious.
09-01-2013
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09-01-2013
#13
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Re: Amplifier + New Ground Cables
To attach the #5 cable to the raptor terminal you posted you would just need to cut off the OE terminal from the white wire that goes to the battery. OE terminal should be similiar to this:
You can just cut the insulation back stick it in the correct size hole and tighten the Allen bolt down to hold the wire.
You can just cut the insulation back stick it in the correct size hole and tighten the Allen bolt down to hold the wire.
09-02-2013
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To attach the #5 cable to the raptor terminal you posted you would just need to cut off the OE terminal from the white wire that goes to the battery. OE terminal should be similiar to this:
You can just cut the insulation back stick it in the correct size hole and tighten the Allen bolt down to hold the wire.
You can just cut the insulation back stick it in the correct size hole and tighten the Allen bolt down to hold the wire.
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