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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #31  
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Dual amp wireing kit? I will have 3 amps.. 1 for the subs, 1 for the front component, 1 for the rear component? what to do about that?
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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Hmm.. Well in that case, umm...umm...lol
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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18ft. of KOL4BK in one color 5ft. of it in another.

2 of these PBK1448

3 of these KRY4M

1 FH20

1 BT104N

1 BT104P

2 RT4516BK

50ft. kle12bl.

And speker, and amp terminals if you want

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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #34  
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Woo Mohawk is the best [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #35  
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[hr]Originally posted by: scrible
Woo Mohawk is the best [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG][hr]

Nope..but I am pretty damn good [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #36  
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d-blocks are cheap, you can get a d-block from knu that takes in 4 gauge and has 4 8 guage outs is fused, for like less than $15 (i forgot how much i paid for mine, but i got all my wire through knu back in the day great seller)

thatll leave you with an extra fuse location if you wanna fuse your neons or relays or something haha
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #37  
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[hr]Originally posted by: WhiteRabbit
d-blocks are cheap, you can get a d-block from knu that takes in 4 gauge and has 4 8 guage outs is fused, for like less than $15 (i forgot how much i paid for mine, but i got all my wire through knu back in the day great seller)

thatll leave you with an extra fuse location if you wanna fuse your neons or relays or something haha[hr]
That was one of the part numbers I showed[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. 4 guage into Four 8gauge [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].


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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #38  
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well then

i dont know about teh 4 guage, but i should warn you all the inline 0/1 fuse block is a POS, and all their ANL fuses will fall apart on you. terrible construction. I was really surprised, cause my 4-8 d-block was of exelent construction, my nonfused 0/1 - 4 was of exelent construction, the wire itself was VERY flexible, even being 0/1! with 5000 strands, i know I am getting a fantastic connection, i was so surprised that that inline fuse block was such a POS (and $30 to boot! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG] )

but if your running 4 guage, you should be fine. I hope your inline fuse block is AGU.....
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #39  
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I run 1/0 Guage too..overkill is cool [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]. I use Tsunami wire accessories though. Discount through a shop.. I got my wire from a welding shop. 3880 Strand count. more then flexible enough.. industrial strength insulation. $2.38/ foot CAD.

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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #40  
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50ft - KLE12B - $25.00
18ft - KOL4BK - Red - $16.02
5ft - KOL4BK - Blue - $04.45
2 - PBK1448 - $16.00
3 - KRY4M - $54.00
1 - FH20 - $20.00
1 - BT104N - $12.00
1 - BT104P - $12.00
2 - RT4516BK - $01.98
_________________________________
# - Total - $161.45


Ouch [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] but if its quality its good [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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Yup..wiring..the one thing nobody ever factors into price...
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #42  
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o jeez! even all my 0/1 and everything only cost me like $120..... could you be buying more than you need?
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #43  
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Maybe his E-Bay prices are cheaper hehe [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] let me check lol
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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What Brand of Capacitor's would you recommend for my MTX/Alpine/Knu system setup?
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #45  
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Also do I need 3 to run 3 amps? They are great for show setups so the more the merrior lol [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] but hard hitting in the pocket
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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a Class D amp for the subs..and a 4 channel for the mids (if you wanna run rear fill) will do the trick.. for a cap..well Lightnigh Audio Strike series caps are good. very low ESR
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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I would ditch the caps. they put unneccesary strain on yoru E-system, and are only a bandaid for a dimming light "problem". If you are willing to drop on caps, you may as well save yoru money and get an alternator later.

as far as 3 amps, I highly reccommend just using your deck outs for the rear speakers. you ideally only want a max of like 25 watts going back there anyways, the only real advantage to using an amp is you can bridge the output to teh back (mono = less damage to imaging) and you can more easily integrate an external crossover.

If you are looking to save money, Id say forget the rear amp and invest in a cheapy set of bandpass crossovers to limit the rear frequencies, and just use deck power.

if your going all out tho, for adjustability you cannot beat the amp with external crossover. but youll pay for it, both in money AND time as you sit there forever trying to tune that sucker to play perfectly.
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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You suggested MTX THUNDER6152 AMP for my components its a 2-channel.. so I will have 2 of them 1 for each component front and rear Probably work better aswell with 2 amps being My Alpine has a Rear/Front/Sub Pre-out setup [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] so.. 1 cap for the sub amp.. and the wireing setup you mentioned will take care of everything? even if i add a cap? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] IF so it looks like im all set
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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mowhawk, i thought about a 4 channel amp, But dont you think that a 4 channel amp may be giving the rear too much power while potentially starving the front?
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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Also Knu makes a Cap any feedback on it? it is cheaper then the Lightning Audio
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #51  
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ESR (0.00198 Ohm) Rating on the Knu
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #52  
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i highly reccommend against a cap, again, its unneccesary strain on your electrical system, much better to get a new alternator in the end if you have problems supplying current to yoru amps.
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #53  
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dammit, the two of you, get in the chat room. much easier.
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #54  
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java chat room

change the "#caraudio" to "#2k1civic.com" and your set.

if you run IRC, the server is chat.hosting4u.net, port 7000.
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #55  
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LOL rabbit that brought the "Get a room" Phrase to my head haha anyways what chat room? I agrre it would work better [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] We just post whoreing right now
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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[hr]Originally posted by: WhiteRabbit
i highly reccommend against a cap, again, its unneccesary strain on your electrical system, much better to get a new alternator in the end if you have problems supplying current to yoru amps.[hr]
A Cap is only a strian playing sine waves [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].. WTF you doing reccomending a H/O alternator?... [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]. also..a cap is useful in controlling dimming of the headlights so that popo doesn't pull you over and send you for an inspection.



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Old Jun 16, 2002
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cap will be charging, and sometimes charge during teh next bass hit...just a further strain... hey, i dont have a problem with MY charging system, and neither do many many many ppl with a hell of alot more current drain than me.

but if light dimming BUGS you, then you need to fix it. what, your gonna fix it with a bandaid? or are you gonna get to the root of the problem (weak E-system) and fix THAT?
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #58  
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hehe come to the chat mohawk [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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Old Jun 16, 2002
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Can't chat..I'm at work
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Old Jun 16, 2002
  #60  
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I see that sucks but work is work and we all gotta do it [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] if not how would we have the time to discuss the systems we gonna get [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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