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Need a suggestion on a good SQL amp to push an Alpine Type-R 6 1.2" Component set... at a good price too [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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any help please?

 
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how much power can they take?

as far as a good amp, Richard Clark proved that amp circutry is rediculously simple to the point where they all sound the same. power is power. wha tyou want to look for is an amp that comes with all teh bells and whistles you need, the high quality PREAMP curcuitry that will really define what kind of sound you get. almost any amp can do this well.

earthquake and JBL are at the top of my list of cheap amps that put out boatloads of quality power, and have all the basics you need.

amps like arc and kicker will run you a bit more, but have far higher quality construction and higher tolerance parts. still the same power, and ill bet that you wont be able to hear much of a difference if any, but if you cna justify the doubling of the cost, then its a worthwhile venture (forgot JL is in there too)

so without knowing what power you need, I will reccommend either an EQ 2.3 (85 watts x2 @ 4 ohms) or a JBL 80.4 i believe (90 x2 @ 4 ohms bridged?)

 
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i disagree slightly with u whiterabbit, a ppi say 250 w is goona be more true wattage then a pyramid 250 w amp and so on

 
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you didnt read what i said, try again.

 
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The amps output stage is basically the same for all amps. It's the input stage that can affect sound by receving magnetic interferance from the amps power supply. Also this affects signal to noise ratios, and Frequency response <--very important.

ANy decent amp will do the trick.if your on a budget. US acoustics, Kenwood, Earthquake, and MTX are good choices as they generally put out more than they are rated for.

Cheers
Mohawk

PS,.Rabbit. Amps can and will sound different, But only based on signal corruption. Most amps have a freq response of +/-3db's from 20-0khz. Now that leaves a 6db gap somplace..that can definately affect sound. Well at least perceived sound. The sound is still pure..just different audible levels and not very flat. But most speakers are far more guilty of this than any amps are...that and THD.are the only 2 differences that would realistically affect sound..(except added noise..but that's the signal..not the amp)

 
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again, i think you misread what I said too, tho your statements before this did not indicate that. you yourself said the output stage on all amps are basically the same, so one amp will not sound different than another based on that, which is what i said...

but hey, not ONE person here has to take my word for this one. because Rickard Clark made a bet that this is true, and he will cut you a check for $10,000 if you can tell teh diffrence between the two amplifier circuits on different amps. zapco, rockwood, it doesnt make a difference. you think you can beat the laws of physics? time and time again, RC sends ppl home whom he has proven wrong, over and over again.

based on the amp, complete and total, i agree..... but everything I have said above is 100% accurate, and RC will back that up with $10,000 [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]

 
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If only I had the funds available to go see him to take his test..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..'ll supply the amps.. My home made amp and my arc Audio 2100CXL..he can choose everything else..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..Or even a Pyramid amp instead of mine. Given sound differences are all related to sgnal and signal processing. Give an amp a perfect signal with no interferance and put in an envronment where there will not be any interferances. All amps are the same untill they distort...

I'd need more info on his test..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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you know where to find him.... youve spoken about ppl proving him wrong before, but there are ppl who know a hell of alot more about caraudio than either of us will ever know who have failed that test, so i think you might be in for a surprise....

i think he even said you were allowed to clip one of teh signals, but dont quote me on that one.....

 
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suggest me a cheaper amp.. such as JBL/MTX these are on my budget.. You said the MTX for my subs ... im putting a component system in each front door... just need a specific amp suggested... also.. any suggestions on what to put in the back (6 1/2"speaker size) to balance out my system... thanks hope to see some replies that answer my question [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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Hmm..

an couple MTX 6000 series amps,,

90Wrmsx2 (about 110Wrmsx2) $189 shipped

500Wrms 2ohms mono (850-900wrms)$309 shipped.

Rated (actual).

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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which will work better for my component system? its 50wrms and 200w max Alpine Type-R 6 1/2"

 
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Well the one for $189 is for your components..

the one for $309 shipped is for the subs [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]...

 
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Coo coo... that 6000 amp will push 3 Alpine Type-R subs? also mention me some wireing for the whole system [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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My Current setup... Tell me if i should change anything or add anything yes I like alpine [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

- Audio:
-- Head Unit - Alpine CDA-7894 (1) - $349.00

-- Front Component - Alpine Type-R 6 1/2" (1) - $179.00
-- Front Component Amp - MTX THUNDER6152 (1) - $189.00

-- Rear Component - Alpine Type-R 6 1/2" (1) - $179.00
-- Rear Component Amp - MTX THUNDER6152 (1) - $189.00

-- Subwoofer - Alpine Type-R 12" (3) - $149.00
-- Subwoofer Amp - MTX THUNDER6500D (1) - $309.00

 
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1.33 ohm load. The MTX can take it. if your subs are SVC 4ohm.



Linky to text how-to

 
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Any suggestions on wire for the system? what type of wireing should i use througout the whole system from battery to subs.. and 6 1/2s even terminal connectors for th ebattery just let me know [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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well it's a proven fact that wire is wire [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..just use at least 12 guage OFC copper wire for the subs and 16 guage for the speakers.. (or go on Ebay and see if you can find that 200ft roll of 10 guage speaker wire a guy is selling) That's what I use for everything in my car.

 
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OFC is not a requirement [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]

 
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No...but it should be!!!

 
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nope, they both have a 101 IACS conductivity rating (OFC and ETP)

as long as you dont get deoxidized copper (i doubt they make wire out of it) the processing takes away some of the conductivity, its only 85% IACS.

if OFC was rated higher than electrolitic tough pitch, then id say yeah, you want that, but in the end, the voltage drop wil be the same no matter which you go for. so you may as well not concern yourself with that part. if it is? bonus! if it isnt, you lost NO conductivity at all, whatesoever.

 
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OFC. To greatly lessen the possbility of corrosion, which would ggreatle effect the conductivity of the wire at it's connections?..

Better?

 
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your gonna have to help me out on that one.

OFC - trace alloy elements

ETP - O + trace elements in the form of inclusions.

where is the corrosion resistance advantage oin OFC? i mena, if you had enough inclusions to segregate to teh grain boundaries, i could see some intergrannular corosion going on, but you could say the same thing about segregation of alloy elements!

what is the corrosion mechanism for ETP as opposed to OFC?

(now you are in trouble, you piqued the curiosity of a materials engineer )

 
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OFC, Oxygen free copper. Oxygen is the primary cause of corrosion in copper... Oxygen free copper, would be less likely to react with moisture and other elements which act as a catalyst for corrosion...Or something along those lines.. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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but corrosion is simply an exchange of electrons, which occurs wherever you have a separation of charge. whether you have a lattice with no oxygen, or a lattice with oxygenated inclusions, either way you have an oxygen free lattice! hmmm! i think this is a teaser for my materials professors......

 
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well Copper which does not inhehently contain oxygen should be less likely to oxidize which is more a chemical reaction than an electrical reaction...So back to it..I shouldn't have said corrosion, but instead , Oxydization which would be a catalyst for furhter corrosion?. <--- not bad for someone who only has a h/s diploma

 
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from that logic, i would infer that in fact an alloy with LESS oxygen would be MORE likely to take oxygen in (oxidize) but in the real world, that isnt how things play out. I will ask my professor, and get back to you. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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What guage amp kit? ... btw if you have the time.. go to http://www.knukonceptz.com and pick me out wireing kits for everything [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]... amp kit, wire for subs, speakers, I plan on re-wireing the whole car.. aswell as lineing it with RAAMat would really appreciate that, I ordered my MTX amps, Alpine components and subs today, they will be here tuesday next day shipping, I have my H/U... Now all I need is enough RAAMat to line my whole 92-95 Civic EX 2DR (Doors, Roof, Trunk, Floor, Hood, Firewall, Sides, Trim) the whole car, so any suggestions on what to use on each also, Do I need a speaker kit if i have a door kit? I will post my systems pics when Im done should be done this week or next week [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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Will put system designed by Mohawk HEHE [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] [IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG] Thanks Mohawk, Rabbit for the help on putting together my system...

 
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4 guage dual amp wiring kit. 40ft 12 guage wire [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] hey why not. for Raammat email raam@raamaudio.com and tell him DOnald phillips sent you his way. Youd' need 3 rolls to cover everything..

Anything else [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]