Full LED light conversion...now no interior lights (there's no power coming to them).
Full LED light conversion...now no interior lights (there's no power coming to them).
Hey Everybody, first post; So I have a 2004 Nighthawk Black Pearl EM2 Honda Civic Si (Canadian) (Equivalent to EX in USDM?, I know thats how it was for 6th generation but Honda did change it for the 7th or 8th gen. Up in Canada up till the K20Z3 6M FA5/FG2 8th gen Civic Si; all of our performance based variants were called Civic SiR's (EM1/EP3) than for the 8th gen they changed it to the Si designation. Just wanted to make sure you guys were familiar with that as I'm sure most of you are!
Now I have a black EM2 Coupe with a shitty 1.7L SOHC-VTEC D17A2 that has about 252,000 KM's on it and I did a complete LED bulb conversion (besides front turn signals (which I have i just need to take out the headlight housing to install them and I have no LEDs for low or high beam yet but planning to order some (Mishimoto? 9005/9006's?). Anyway I have a complete aftermarket audio system (Rockford Fosgate 2 Way 5 1/4 speakers and tweeters, JVC 3 Way 6X9's in the rear and an Alpine bluetooth deck powering a Soundstage amp with an inline Capacitor and a "Gel" AGM Battery designed for high electrical draw applications and 2 10" Soundstage subs.
So I had the interior lights working a few weeks ago and right around the time I finished the rear taillight conversion and changed the high mount brake light I started having trouble with the trunk light,( little light at the top opening of the trunk now the high mount brake light) it would only work if there was an abnormal amount of pressure pushing on the bulb.
Now none of my interior lights (2X Front Map lights, 1X Front Dome light for when the doors open and 1X Rear dome light for when the doors open and 1X trunk light are all now not working).
The LED conversion is definitely worth it as they are much, much brighter and use way less power but right now it feels like a waste because half of it isn't working and its an expensive thing to do somewhat, I took out the piece for the front map/done lights and they all have ground, even the one that only completes the circuit when the doors open but I checked and there is no 12V constant power or accessory.
Sorry for the long post I just wanted to explain as much as I could.
Also the rear turn signals blink like a bulb is burnt out (very fast and I checked and both front and back are working I think it's just cause the rear ones are LEDs and the fronts haven't been changed yet as ill have to remove the full headlight housing.
The interior bulbs did work great for a couple weeks and all of a sudden this happens, I also have LEDs for the gauge cluster but I haven't taken that apart either yet. Anybody got any ideas where to start? Thanks guys!
Now I have a black EM2 Coupe with a shitty 1.7L SOHC-VTEC D17A2 that has about 252,000 KM's on it and I did a complete LED bulb conversion (besides front turn signals (which I have i just need to take out the headlight housing to install them and I have no LEDs for low or high beam yet but planning to order some (Mishimoto? 9005/9006's?). Anyway I have a complete aftermarket audio system (Rockford Fosgate 2 Way 5 1/4 speakers and tweeters, JVC 3 Way 6X9's in the rear and an Alpine bluetooth deck powering a Soundstage amp with an inline Capacitor and a "Gel" AGM Battery designed for high electrical draw applications and 2 10" Soundstage subs.
So I had the interior lights working a few weeks ago and right around the time I finished the rear taillight conversion and changed the high mount brake light I started having trouble with the trunk light,( little light at the top opening of the trunk now the high mount brake light) it would only work if there was an abnormal amount of pressure pushing on the bulb.
Now none of my interior lights (2X Front Map lights, 1X Front Dome light for when the doors open and 1X Rear dome light for when the doors open and 1X trunk light are all now not working).
The LED conversion is definitely worth it as they are much, much brighter and use way less power but right now it feels like a waste because half of it isn't working and its an expensive thing to do somewhat, I took out the piece for the front map/done lights and they all have ground, even the one that only completes the circuit when the doors open but I checked and there is no 12V constant power or accessory.
Sorry for the long post I just wanted to explain as much as I could.
Also the rear turn signals blink like a bulb is burnt out (very fast and I checked and both front and back are working I think it's just cause the rear ones are LEDs and the fronts haven't been changed yet as ill have to remove the full headlight housing.
The interior bulbs did work great for a couple weeks and all of a sudden this happens, I also have LEDs for the gauge cluster but I haven't taken that apart either yet. Anybody got any ideas where to start? Thanks guys!
Re: Full LED light conversion...now no interior lights (there's no power coming to th
I figure once the front are in they would be fine but you might be right, im not too worried about that as if I get pulled over. Everything is still working, more about the interior lights. Thanks for the replies guys.
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Re: Full LED light conversion...now no interior lights (there's no power coming to th
for the interior lights, i would start removing the led light one by one to see if there is not something causing issues.
After that, i would remove all that are not working and replace with the original ones. Then reinstall the leds one by one and test after install (one by one).
After that, i would remove all that are not working and replace with the original ones. Then reinstall the leds one by one and test after install (one by one).
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