wivicker

I have search these forums looking for an answer before I posted this. I found a lot of threads with similar problems but not quite like mine.

I have an 03 coupe EX I bought new, completely stock with a factory alarm. The key fob stopped working so I put in a new battery. It still didn't work so I took the new battery and put it into the second fob I got when I bought the car. This fob has been used maybe twice since I bought the car. The rest of the time it has been in a drawer. It didn't work. I checked the back up fuse. Still didn't work.

Today I notice that when the car is off and I use the power lock switch on the drivers door that the passenger side locks fine and the drivers side only moves down about 1/8th inch. This doesn't lock the door. If the car is running however and I hit the lock switch, both doors lock as they should. I tried pushing the driver side lock down with my finger and that didn't work at all. It moved maybe another 1/8th inch.

If I turn the car off, pull the key out and close the door, the alarm will arm passively. If I open the door with the alarm armed and don't start the car, the alarm will go off but shut off like it should once I start the car.

If there is anything else that you need to know I'll do my best to tell you. Right now, my car is unlocked where ever I go. Sure the alarm is armed but ugh!

Thanks in advance!

Foffie

iTrader: (3)

the door lock actuators are very shi**y on these cars luckily they are only like 20-30 buck from the dealership and fairly easy to change as far as your alarm problem no clue good luck to ya though

wivicker

Would a faulty actuator interfere with a key fob? Thanks again!

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

I certainly sounds like the actuator to me but...

What happens if you push the lock **** down or work the power locks up & down when the drivers door is closed ??

Try working the power locks up & down several times (drivers door closed) and then try the keyless and see how drivers side acts.

There is a switch located in the drivers side actuator that knows the position of system for drivers side (locked or unlocked)

wivicker

OK -

Doors closed, car off, both doors lock and unlock fine using the power locks button or my manually locking and unlocking them. The fob does not work at all. However, when I lock or unlock the doors I hear a grind noise almost coming from each door. I also though I heard a faint buzzing when using the power lock button.

With the door open and the car off the driver side lock only moves that little bit and remains unlocked.

Thanks!

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

You can't lock the drivers door when it is open (you can trick it by pulling one of the handles, but i don't recommend doing so)

I'm assuming your red LED on the fob is illuminating when pushing the buttons ??

Does the drivers lock work any better or different after working it several times up & down with the lock/unlock button on door and then quickly try to use the fob ?? (my passenger side would work for a short while after working it with the L/U button, then would get slow after setting a while)

The best time to listen to drivers side is on the 1st press of the unlock on fob (only the drivers side is unlocking then)

If the drivers side does not unlock it may effect the other side because the status switch in the actuator still sees it as "locked"

wivicker

Nope, the LED doesn't light up.

The drivers side doesn't seem to work any better and I did try to use the fob quick with nothing working. Neither fob works. Both locks lock/unlock at the same time with the L/U button and when you manually lock the drivers side the passenger side locks too.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

The LEDs should be lighting each button press, top middle near the edge, red.

How about the panic button ??

wivicker

Nope. Neither LED in either fob lights up no matter which button is pressed. The battery that I am using I just bought yesterday so I would hope it's good. There is that chance that it sat on the rack at the store forever.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Carefully bend up the 2 little tabs under battery & gently scrape the contacting edges of the 2 fingers on sides.

The battery should not mount if backwards... but you should NOT be seeing the embossed + side when mounted in the holder.

civicpapi

He did try 2 fobs already, chances are it is not the fob. I wonder if the system needs to be reprogrammed. I would go that route.

wivicker

You mean reprogram the fobs? Both fobs LED's lit up a couple days ago when this all started.

civicpapi

Lighting up has nothing to do with programming. Get some program instructions from the web or dealer and try that. You said both doors work with the inside switch right?

wivicker

They both work with the inside switch when the drivers door is closed. If the drivers door is open when you hit the switch to lock the doors, the passenger door locks but the drivers door lock only moves down about 1/8th an inch and remains unlocked.

Thanks for sticking with me on this!

electric130

iTrader: (44)

everything you've said about the locks is normal operation. the drivers side won't lock with the door open (key fob or door switch) unless you hold the handle. this is to attempt to keep people from locking their keys in the car. all doors should lock if you manually push the drivers lock down, and don't unlock if drivers is manually lifted.

the only thing that doesn't seem to work is the keyless part. if neither fob works, then i'd say the main controller is bad.

civicpapi

He said before he shut the doors and tried to lock the doors from inside, in that case the drivers door should lock you inside.

electric130

iTrader: (44)

yep that's normal. electrically and mechanically the door lock system is working correctly. it's the alarm system that's not.

civicpapi

Do you have a honda factory alarm? or does it just beep when you lock the doors? Just to double check, lock the doors and try to reach in through the window and open the door to set off the alarm. Sometimes people try the key to open the door but with many factory alarms the key will disable it.

Here are programming instructions, I would try this:

http://www.handa-accessories.com/crv/KEYLESSPROG.pdf

wivicker

Yeah, I have a factory alarm. I have done just what you suggested many times and accidentally set off the alarm.

Could a bad main unit account for the range of my fob decreasing over the past few months? I'll try the reprogramming tomorrow.

Thanks guys!

electric130

iTrader: (44)

possibly

civicpapi

Hard to say, maybe just a weak battery in the transmitter. I am not sure where the main unit is. I know for the older 98 to 98 civic it was part of the radio.

electric130

iTrader: (44)

transmitter is the key fob. receiver is in the car. and no, it's not part of the radio in 7th gen's.

wivicker

So I tried reprogramming and either I screwed it up, which is possible, or something else is wrong. The LED on the steering column never lit up.

I am assuming that, that means it's the main unit. Does this mean it's time for me to take my car somewhere and find out for sure what the deal is?

Thanks again!

armandjones82

Research again on the functions of the Door Lock Actuator that fits your Civic's needs and try to see if it is good for your car. Also, try to really check out if things are ok with your car. Maybe some parts of it would really act of because of that one.

Foffie

iTrader: (3)

um....what??? I read that like 8 times and that post does not make any sense to me. Maybe my work day was just too long. Also 5 month old tread resurrection FAIL......