Rep Power: 0

I installed a small system into my 05 Civic LX SE.. a new head unit, two subs, and a Rockford Fosgate 325.1 325watt amp. My headlights dim if I don't set the gain low or the LP to about 80hz or less. I know about the Big 3 but I don't have the tools to do that. But even without the Big 3, shouldn't this not happen with such a small system? Shouldn't our cars be able to handle this fine? Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 812

this is the only thing that completely stopped the dimming for me. its a voltage converter that outputs steady 15.4v to the bulbs, even if your car input drops below 12v. and it makes the lights noticably brighter

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CATZ-...spagenameZWDVW



my 02 civic with the boosters installed, using clear H4 bulbs

 
Rep Power: 259

nah your lights are dimming for a reason, the system might seem small to you but not for our cars. its going to dim. a stronger battery, stronger alternator, the thing that gearbox posted, those things might change that. just stay away from a capacitor.

 
Rep Power: 812

my lights used to dim all the time and i dont even have a sub, just a small speaker amp. they dimmed anytime i used anything like windows, wipers, ac, whatever. weak alternator ftl. option 2, get hids. their ballast also regulates power to the bulb so no dimming.

 
Rep Power: 259

yea, but if you get crappy HIDs... yak... i hate seeing that.. its so hard to find a decent set that wont make you look like you have a damn bug zapper lamp inside ur headlight

 
Rep Power: 0

why did u say to stay away from a cap? :S

 
Rep Power: 812

it doesnt do anything to solve the actual problem, which is a lack of power. it just covers it up. the cap also uses battery power to keep itself charged, so its just another drain on the system.

 
Rep Power: 291

stock alternator puts out 840w. several hundred of that is reserved for critical car operations. turn your lights on at night, and you'll eat up another couple hundred. so even a small system can exhaust what the stock alt can put out.

 
Rep Power: 812

yeah even when i was running two subs and had two total amps, my battery hated me. it always felt like something was wrong, like it was barely charged enough to work. and the headlights would dim when the bass hit. haha i remember those days.

 
Rep Power: 277

I'm running the same amp as you on a single sub and my setup is fine as long as I don't crank it. I also run another 120 watt amp for the speakers and a computer in the trunk so it sounds like you have another issue here as well. However I also realize I'm on the brink of killing my battery so I'll be upgrading my alternator/battery/wiring in a few months and I suggest you do too. Why have a good system if it works like ****?

 
Rep Power: 0

hey I have a jl audio w7 in my trunk with a alpine amp besides dynamat what do you guys do to stop the noise

 
Rep Power: 291

are you asking a question or making a statement? use some punctuation! either way, don't hijack threads. do a search first and then post a new thread if you don't find an answer.

 
Rep Power: 0

How many cold cranking amps does a regular stock honda civic battery have?

I saw some batterys putting out 720 cold cranking amps like AcDelco and stuff like that. What kind of battery would you lean towards?

 
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get something to hold the voltage up. hi-output alternator or cap or regulator.

 
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no cap genius. reading > you. (stolen). Yea in my car i have two amps pulling around 800watts (no clue how many amps) and when its cranked it always feels like the car is struggling.

 
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Hmmm.... slightly modded RF 4004 (overcapped internally/transistors upgraded) running Boston 6.5Pros up front and an RF HX2 12" 2 ohm DVC bridged on the rear channels, with stock, inherited, 2004 Civic VP inc. stock battery and a quality 1F cap, no issues. Am I lucky or something? I had the same setup in an '88 Pulsar with zero issues in over 8 years (although original amp was a modded 400.4 and I've been doing this stuff since 1986).

My van uses 2-RF OS 225.2 amps+an RF OS 40.2 for rear fill, 2 DVC HX2 4 ohm 12's, BA 6.5x3Pros with extra 6.5 LF in each door on custom LP network (2-6.5's, 1-4"mid. 1-1" tweet per door and glassed in) running @318WRMS per side@1.81ohms) on doors, 1206WRMS on on subs, and 4x6 plates on rear fill with 2-1F caps and a friggin' Duralast Gold battery (had Optimas, they all died and I'm broke these days).

Maybe I'm nuts, but my s**t works on a daily basis. FWIW the van does an easy 141dB+ w/ no issues with gains set low and the Pulsar did 130+(did 128 with an OS POWER series 8" in a bandpass box), the Civic has not been RTA'd yet but I think she's good for 129+w/o tweaking.

Maybe you have a weak alternator or crap ground? Although, I do look at that tiny stock battery and wonder how long she will last.

 
Rep Power: 0

it not hard to add another batt. or two just add a batt. and be done with it.

 
Rep Power: 233

I had a 1500watt alpine audio system in my stock 7th gen civic and my car never had power issues.