Rep Power: 0

Ok, i swapped my flipout headunit for a more reliable JVC unit, old headunit worked perfect, wired perfect, etc.

When I went to wire the JVC unit, wired everything perfect, but no power... I have tried EVERYTHING just about with the wiring, and the best result is the headunit comes on, but as soon as I turn it off, it wont save the settings and go back to the first song on the cd.... I know it has to do something with the constant 12v (yellow) wire or the Ignition 12v(red) wire.... but I have tried a jumper from the fuse panel (radio/acc. fuse and i tried p/w fuse) and still nothing. I have spent many hours into this and many headaches.

There are no fuses blown, no shorts, no loose connections, as I've installed stereo's many a time, but never ran into this problem.

Also, i had a jumper from the p/w fuse hit the base of the factory metal surround thing that holds the h/u and cubby hole, it sparked, and now there is no power to the whole car (guages wont light up, wont start, etc). Please tell me I did not accidently fry my car. There are no blown fuses or anything either...

I have an 03 Civic EX coupe if that helps

I am just sick of it and its driving me crazy.
Thanks for all your help in advance!

 
Rep Power: 263

How are you so sure you don't have any blown fuses? That sounds like exactly your problem.

Do you have a digital multimeter or voltmeter so you can figure out which wire at the deck does have power?

Which power window fuse are you referring to? Underhood or underdash?

 
Rep Power: 247

Did you check the fuses under the hood?
There are two fuse boxes in our cars.

 
Rep Power: 236

I had this same problem.. i got so pissed I just took it to a local stereo shop and it was a damn fuse. So i'll agree with christmaspie. Any chance you want to sell that old F/O unit?

 
Rep Power: 247

Just to make sure you have the correct wiring diagram for your car.
Here you go.

| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|black/red |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|white/red |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|white/blue |- |gray plug above drivers kick|
| POWER UNLOCK|white/green |- |gray plug above drivers kick|
| LOCK MOTOR|yellow/black | |back of the fusebox *3 |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|yellow/green | |back of the fusebox *3 |
| DISARM DEFEAT|yellow | |back of the fusebox *3 |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|red/black | |back of the fusebox |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|blue | |factory alarm plug *1 |
| HEADLIGHTS|blue/red |- |headlight switch |
| DOOR TRIGGER|*2 |- |factory alarm plug *1 |
| DOME SUPERVISION|comes on with unlock| | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|red |- |factory alarm plug *1 |
| TACHOMETER|blue | |test connector *4 |
| SPEED SENSE|white/green | |PCM *5 |
| BRAKE WIRE|white/black |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|orange |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blue (L), blu/yel(H)|- |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|red/blk - red/yel |A |drivers window switch |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|blu/red - blu/wht |A |drivers kick panel |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|brn/wht - brown |A |drivers kick panel |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|blu/org - brn/yel |A |drivers kick panel |
| RADIO 12V|white/red |+ |radio |
| RADIO GROUND|black |- |radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|yellow/red |+ |radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|red/black |+ |radio |
| POWER ANTENNA| | | |
| LF SPEAKER|grn/blk - lt green | |radio |
| RF SPEAKER|grn/yel - gry/red | |radio |
| LR SPEAKER|blu/wht - blu/blk | |radio |
| RR SPEAKER|pink - blu/yel | |radio |



NOTE: This vehicle has an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed when adding remote start. Use DEI part number 555I or 555U.
*1 The factory alarm plug is a green plug above the drivers kick panel.
*2 The drivers door trigger is green, front passenger door trigger is lt. green/red, and the rear door trigger is green/white.
*3 In the top left plug.
*4 It is a 2 pin plug to the passenger side of the battery.
*5 The PCM is behind the glove box. The vss is in a connector A (31 pins), pin 18. The vss is also blue/white at the cruise control module to the left of the steering column.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok, the dead car was a fuse that was blown under the hood... got that taken care of...

BUT... all the other fuses are fine

The wiring is a harness kit, and the other headunit powers up fine... just not the new one.... thats what I don't understand

 
Rep Power: 247

Ok, just for testing run a long wire from the battery to the new headunit.
If it works then there is a wiring problem.
If not then you have a dead unit.

Try that and report back.

 
Rep Power: 263

We still don't know which wire actually has power. So you now admit that fuses you thought were fine were blown. Yet you still deny there could be another blown fuse. I hear "it's not the fuse" every day and 9 times out of 10 it is.

 
Rep Power: 247

Hey christmaspie, some people just never listen do they?

 
Rep Power: 263

Indeed, you can only hope they will take your advice or at the very least report back with results from requested tests.

Luckily at work I can give them the old "why do you think I work here and do what I do?" talk and then they'll usually do the tests. And then we usually find the problem. Weird.

 
Rep Power: 236

 
Rep Power: 291

are you sure you wired it correctly? as others on here have learned, some of the new HU's are going away from the traditional wire color scheme. so yellow might not be constant power like you think. that was another member's problem. so re-check the wiring data that came with your HU.

 
Rep Power: 247

I am going to tackle one of these today.

I have a friend that tried to install a regular after market HU in his wifes car. (2002 Grand Am SE)
He said it was hooked up correctly then he turned it on and all it did was click. So he had the bright idea to try and start the car with the HU clicking. He said he heard a pop and now non of the dash works. No lights or gauges nothing. He still has not unhooked the radio. (Idiot) He also said that he has checked the fuses and they are all good. He wanted to bring it by my shop to have one of the guys fix it for free. I told him that I would come over there and look at it if he got the wife and I dinner. I also reminded him that my shop installs HU's for only $50 that includes the wire harness and a regular kit, special parts are extra. I just hope he did not cook the dash. That would be expensive.

 
Rep Power: 291

there's some similarity here. those "other members" i was referring to swore that they had hooked things up right untill they went back with the instructions and wiring diagrams and checked. then they found their problem. "it's not the wiring" well, it probably is if it's not the fuse.

 
Rep Power: 0

Problem was the head unit.

I'm not a newbie, i'm a mini truck guy and this is my daily driver while i work on my truck during the winter. I've just never had that happen when installing a head unit.

Working this winter on a Hardbody bagged on 20's and fully shaven. Its built not bought.

Peace