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yes ive searched for this but cant seem to find what im looking for. i have a 12'' sub in my trunk and im going to buy edead v1 and v1se. im wondering, which area will have a more noticeable difference, the whole trunk or doing all 4 doors?

 
Rep Power: 283

As for me I applied dynamat to the entire trunk and used e-dead for the interior (floor and where the rear seat is) and used a combo of dynamat and edead for the doors. I used the edead around the door speakers and then put dynamat over it. I dunno if that helps.

 
Rep Power: 388

^ and what differnce did u notice?

I think the sub is going to sound better if you dead the whole trunk, if you dead the interior, the speakers are going to sound better, less road noise, but your trunk is going to sound nasty and viberate like a mother.

 
Rep Power: 326

hrmmm, so if i add some Dynamt extreme behind my speakers in the front, theyll sound better.. i got some lying around... and i need to put some on my roof..

 
Rep Power: 283

The bass sounds really clean inside of the car there is hardly vibration. I would not even consider installing a system without dynamat or edead in the car. Here are a few places I did find vibration after i installed dynamat and edead.

-3RD brakelight I jammed a bandana between the glass and the top of the light and now the vibration is gone. I am looking for something else so it would look clean.

-Rear license plate, I put a piece of edead on the back of the plate and then screwed it on.

-Driver side rear bumper right now this is rattling like hell I might take the bumper off and put some dynamat there.

-Rear spoiler tried to bolt it down all the way and it still rattles ;[ can't get them all right?

Hope this helps!

 
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yea the trunk vibrates so much but our civics are kinda noisy up front so i dont know what to do. im leaning more towards doing the trunk first because you can really here they. i stopped most of the rattles that i can find(like the rear deck and a few others)

 
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i have two 12s too, there are two places u can adjust ur trunk, the two rubber screws, and the latch bar on the base of the trunk, plus i dynamatted the trunk lid, and the license plate, made a huge difference, plus i dynamatted the rear deck too, im gonna dynamat the rest of the interior too at some point, but it makes a huge difference

 
Rep Power: 328

A few deadening tips:

Remove the carpet from the trunk. Behind the driver's side wheel there is a trunk vent. That is one major source of rattle. You can do it the ghetto way and tape it shut. Or you can do it the right way and remove it, sand the surrounding area down and then lay up 5 layers of glass over it, sand it, then two layers of weave and glass it shut. Once the weave is done, then sand it a final time and put a quick coat of bondo on it and sand it relatively smooth. One light coat of paint or primer should do the trick, you're gonna deaden over it anyway.

From there, another source of rattle is the third break light. My suggestion for that is one of two things. The first would be adhesive window foam from a hardware store. It's cheap for a 1/8" thick 1/2" wide roll. Put one layer around the third brake light and reinstall the rear deck. Another option is to remove the rear deck and mask all of it off except the surround where it contacts the rear window. Two coats of rubberized undercoating should do the trick there. Let it dry completely. Reinstall the rear deck.

Another source of vibration is the trunk lid. You can remove it to make this step easier, but make sure you lay it on at least two layers of quilt or thick blanket to protect it from getting scratched when you lay it down, outside down. Looking at the inside, there is a skeleton inside the actual lid. You should have a lot of gaps in there. I'd get some minimal expansion expanding foam and foam all of the skeleton frame about half full to let it expand and fill the gaps. Minimal expansion should be used as it won't pop the skeleton loose when it starts expanding and curing. Once it cures, razor knife the foam that it protruding from the skeleton making it flat. This will eliminate the resonance you get from the metal to metal contact between the lid and skeleton. From there, at least one layer of deadener should be applied to the entire underside of the lid (make sure to cut out for the bolts and screws.

Another source of resonance is a spoiler if you have one. Remove the spoiler (before deadening the trunk lid) and install at least one rubber washer in between the spoiler and the outside of the trunk lid. I prefer two, as this cushions it more. Make sure to tighten the screws back well, even could put some locktite on the threads.

Another source of vibration/rattle? The tag. A layer or two of deadener on the reverse side of the tag should do the trick. Another option is a layer of the window foam that I mentioned in the rear deck section. It leaves a residue and can crack and peel though when outside.

One more? The gaps between the piece of metal that protrudes behind the wheel wells (it's on the sides, the gap is about 4 inches wide between it and the exterior panel). A good layer of expanding foam between those two panels to eliminate the gaps between the metal where it meets should do the trick. When I had the civic, I used two cans of foam per side and then glassed it up shut, like a vanity panel. That eliminated the resonance from there.

Also, make sure that you secure all of the wires, and put a layer of deadener between them and where they would vibrate against the panels. The spare tire well, should the spare be in, could be a source of vibration. The wingnut on the spare contacts the rim on the spare and has a little vibration. A good rubber washer installed between the rim and wingnut contact points should fix that. I'd probably put rubber washers on all of the screws/bolts on there (which I did on my civic before I sold it). It's overkill yes, but I was a stickler for vibration. I hated it. So I did a lot more than I probably should have in trying to eliminate it.

 
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How can we avoid Road noise that we experience on Highways doing 70mph+? Im guessing removing the front seats and dynamating the whole floor and the front foot wells ? Would that be a remedy ?

 
Rep Power: 328

Road noise? Hmm, a lot of interior dampening would be required to totally eliminate it. I found, however, that a lot of the noise was coming in in a few places. The driver's footwell and the passenger's footwell, especially the driver's. Pull back the carpet down there (I took my seats out as I deadened the entire inside of the car) and mat around especially the pedals (I recommend 2 layers) making sure to give them clearance to still be completely operable. This is one major source of road noise. Those footwells let in a lot of noise.

Another place that let in a lot of road noise (and was quite a bitch to deaden) was behind the dash. I took the dash completely out of the car (there are DIY's on here that have it somewhere). From there, I deadened every panel I could find that the deadener would stick to. From there, I masked everything off (taking masking tape and making cones to stick in holes where clips, screws, bolts, attachment points) and then covered it with a liquid deadener. This, in essence, sealed the engine noise off from the cabin, and changed the frequencies (from deadening) to ones that were not audible to the human ear, or at least my ear. Yes, it's a time consuming project, and yes you'd need two days and some mechanical acuity, but it does help out a lot.

One other major source of road noise is the doors, especially the fronts (I had a coupe, so I only had 2 doors). There are vents in the doors (I suppose to make the doors easier to shut). I removed the rubber and crap from inside the door (after removing the door skins) and hung the wires out of the way (unplugging as many as I could). Once the rubber was removed that was non-essential to the operation of the door (the vents and what not, not attachment points) I fiberglassed over them to seal the door. From there, I used mat deadener to mat the large panels I could access. Taking the window out made the process easier. I put mat deadener on every accessable spot on the inside of the exterior door panel(there is a skeleton that the door skin attaches to, and then there is the panel that is one side out with the exterior paint on it,and then there's the inside that is in the car, this is the area I am referring to). Once I had god coverage with mat deadener (IE everything I could get to) I then used liquid deadener and poured it into the bottom of the door to get in the cracks that the mat deadener couldn't get to. I used a paint brush to cover everything I couldn't get mat deadener on up in the door (make sure to tape the window track off if you remove the window as well as the motor for it, trust me here, oversight of that on my part gives me the ability to give you the foresight). Removing the door locking mechanism also makes it easier to liquid deaden it. It makes a mess getting to it and getting it on your skin, indeed, but the result is what you're after. From there, I let the liquid deadener completely dry. Once it was dry, I used rubberized undercoating and sprayed a nice coat on the inside of the door (again, on the inside of the door behind the skeleton). I let that dry and gave it one more good coat (I used about a can and a half per door). From there, I then deadened the outside of the skeleton that faces the door skin (make sure to cut out for clips and screws on the deadener, again, my oversight is your foresight). One good layer of deadener on there, rolled on with a CNC milled wall paper type roller I made in high school. From there, I brushed a single fairly heavy coat of liquid deadener on top of the mat. (Make sure to tape off the holes where the skin attaches). From there, I took the door skin and laid it upside down. I taped off the electronics for the windows, and door locks (yes, I actually remembered to do that) and then taped off about an inch of the outside where it meets the door along with about 1/4" inside the skin so as to prevent drippage onto the skin. Also made sure to tape off the attachment clips and what not. I sprayed two moderate coats of rubberized undercoating on the inside of the door panel, drying between coats. Let it dry completely. Now, reassemble the door (put the window back in the track and reattach the wires, etc. Then reinstall the door skin. Rattle and road noise free, you can enjoy the quiet cabin.

Remember though, this is a honda, and they are designed with budgets and functionality in mind, so that didn't pay as close attention to sound deadening as audio folks would like. While they're still fairly quiet for econoboxes, they're still fairly loud. You most likely will never eliminate every single bit of noise or rattle, but you can do as much as possible to eliminate it. And the steps I've given in these two posts should eliminate around 95-98% of the rattle and road noise you'd hear without the deadener. Yes, you're adding a lot of weight, but it's still a Honda,and it wasn't designed to go fast. You have to put a lot of money into them to make go-fast cars. Mine was all show and no go, so I could have cared less about weight. It's like adding a passenger to the car by sound deadening it properly(in terms of weight). Not a crap load of weight, but it's a pretty good bit, as far as adding parts is concerned.

 
Rep Power: 812

or just buy quieter tires

 
Rep Power: 328

It'd be cheaper to deaden the entire car twice than buy a set of new quieter tires. Plus you'd also eliminate rattle and engine noise. Pick your poison I suppose.

 
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Not disrespecting you in any way bro coz I always agree with your posts but i cant agree with this one ... I have tried 4 different set of tires in the past 3 years and theres always something else that causes this cabin noise.

I just got my new 15 inch rims and falken 205/50/15 installed today (Yes today and I will be taking pics and posting em tomorrow )

My first set of tires was the original EX rims with OEM tires, then I got my 17's with Kumho Ecsta's and then I got General UHP's which btw were the #1 rated tires for quiteness on TIRERACK.COM (complete ) and today i switched back to 15inch's with Falkens ... As far as i can see, tires do make noise on the road no matter what kind they are but its the way the WHEEL WELL's are insulated that resists the tirenoise from reaching inside the cabin. U can use the same brand tire on a civic and an accord and u will see that the accords cabin does not allow tire noise in it but the civics does. I guess mainly coz of the price difference, and secondly quality related to cheap price !

Now the part of noise other than TIRES, I noticed today that while driving 45mph on a straight n smooth road today there was wind noise coming in clearly from the passenger well. (SOME of u with aftermarket SUBs and AMPS should definitely check this part out). I got my sub and amp installed from best buy and they ran the power wire from the trunk to the battery in the front throught this small opening on the passenger foot-well. Theres a rubber peice which is supposed to lock itself when inserted properly but those jack asses didnt insert it properly coz they were supposed to splice it a bit so the power wire could go through! But they didnt. Now that is point 1. After that, even after inserting that rubber piece on theres roadnoise still coming in from the foot-wells just as the SAW guy above said ^^^ Next tip for all u guys with those aftermarket M3 or G3 style LED SIDEMIRRORS !... get rid of them coz they are no good in looks or for noise reduction. Its funny but I dont understand where that sound comes in even though they are installed outside the cabin but the ****ing cross wind still makes noise INSIDE the car even with the windows shut .. I will do a research on this but ur best bet is to replace ur DX or LX black side mirrors with either EX mirrors or match ur black ones with the body color !

An INTERESTING part which I would like to ask all of those guys who have installed lowering springs please (COUPES SPECIFICALLY) . While driving after a rain, when the roads are still wet... Do u guys experience sound coming from the back of ur cars ? more specifically from the 2 arm rests for the back passengers ? It makes like a 3D sound of Wet driving and gives this 3D effect while u drive with your windows rolled up! Please tell me what it could be coz i noticed that tonite also. That noise was never coming when I had the stock springs, but started after I got lowering springs installed! I need help on this one ! Thanks guys take care ...

And SAW guy >>> Ur post about those instructions for sound deading is awesome but I wish u had some pics also to make it a compete DIY... I got confused a bit where u referred to DOOR SKIN, which i think u meant by the Interior door panel ?

 
Rep Power: 328

I no longer own the Civic, so I can not take pics. I wished I had taken them at the time, but alas, I didn't. The door skin is indeed the plastic panel you refer to as the interior door panel. Around here(and at the shop I used to work at), we call it a door skin, but it is, indeed the same piece. Oh, and I've been on here a while, but haven't posted a whole lot since I sold my Civic. I'm back in the market though, so I've been getting back on more in the last few months. I still breezed in and out, but now that I'm considering the new Civic Si, I'm on more frequently. I'm still also considering purchasing a Scion as well, and buying an 01 Civic to fool around with. I haven't decided what to do. I've driven the demo cars so many times it's making my head spin. I can't wrap my mind around what I want to drive next, so I'm still holding out buying. Bad thing is, I could pay cash for either one, I just can't friggin decide. I like the Tc and the Si, but they aren't real practical for me at the moment. I'm leaning towards getting both an Xb and an 01 or so Civic. Then the Civic could be a project car and the Xb be my daily driver.

 
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DUde ... If i were u go I would definitely go for the 08 Accord Coupe. that 268hp monster can be ur project and daily driver at the same time !!!

 
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popcorn playa thanks for the detailed reponses. they really helped

 
Rep Power: 328

Still not practical, plus I think they're ugly. I really need something I can tow a boat with, and fit people in comfortably, and more than 2 people. The Xb handles the people question, but I don't know their towing capacity, which probably isn't much. I will probably just keep my truck I have now to tow the boat.

 
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i have another question now. i dont know how much to buy. i was thinking about 70 sq feet. i would need 48 sq feet for all 4 doors then i could use the other 22 sq feet for the trunk. is that enough to do the whole trunk with atleast one layer?

 
Rep Power: 326

hrmm.. get some Michelins PS2s or PS all-seasons.. better ride.. and quieter... falken, General, or etc... buy the top of the line.. and youll notice a difference!

 
Rep Power: 326

and btw... an Xb can barley haul people. let alone a boat...

 
Rep Power: 328

I don't know if you've seen the new one, but it has the Tc engine in it, which has 40 more horses stock, and then the TRD kit works perfectly on it, putting it up over 200. Aftermarket boost has put even better numbers to the wheels on the dyno. And for the price of the new Accord I could put pretty much every mod I'd want on the motor and put out some great numbers. And the boat isn't a large boat.

 
Rep Power: 328

I used 100+ square feet in the trunk, and Over 250 in the entire car, but again, like I said I tend to go overboard sometimes when deadening. I used fatmat and got it for right at $100 per 100 square feet.

 
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Woah ...u mean to say that u used about 350 sq ft. of fatmat bro ??? how much weight did ur car gain

 
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I just finished the trunk and used 70 sq feet. i dont have any left over

 
Rep Power: 328

Not enough to make it very noticable with having the 1.7L EX motor in it. Like I said, weight wasn't an issue because I realized before I ever purchased the car that it was slow. I was all show so I didn't really have that much consideration to weight as long as the function I was trying to accomplish was accomplished. My GF's sister bought the car and both her and everyone that's ridden in it have all said it is the quietest car they've ever ridden in, and the system was also the clearest they'd ever heard. I got a sense of pride from that... Then I remembered all the **** I had to go through installing it. Word to the wise... unless you're a midget or really bored, pay someone to do a full deadening install. You get burnt out after the first 100 or so sq. feet.

 
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id have to agree, doing the the bottom of the rear deck in the trunk was such a pain. i had the seats folded down and i was laying in the trunk trying to do that rear deck.