Rep Power: 321

Well this just in drew22mader now has his Alpine IVA-D310 installed!!

 
Rep Power: 310

no the wires to the speakers they didnt use were just taped up together, the wires like 12+ and ground and all that were connected with a cap that twists them together, it was acutally a good tight connection but nothing is better than soldering.


btw, that new one looks great! congrats.

 
Rep Power: 256

Sounds like a wire nut. Those should not be used in a vehicle... Crimp caps, and butt connectors are most commonly used because the stereo can be installed very quickly.

 
Rep Power: 0

yeah, i have always used either butt connectors or tap splices and have never had any issues... soldering is a little overboard IMO

 
Rep Power: 310

not at all, its the best way and the right way.
im not saying you shouldnt do what you want or that those wont work, id just rather do the best one.

 
Rep Power: 256

Soldering is the "right" way, and the MECP way, but most shops just do not to it, becuase it takes TIME. Theres nothing wrong with using butt connectors inside the vehicle where there is not much moisture at all, but anything done on any part of the vehicle where it gets moisture or elements should be soldered and heat shrunk

 
Rep Power: 310

true^
also if there is play in the wire like if you were connecting wires someplace where they will move around alot like in a door jamb or anything that will shake/move the wire.

 
Rep Power: 0

i just wrap all my tap splices in duct tape afterward, it keeps out the moisture just fine

alright not really... i agree with your statement, though... in those instances solder and heat shrink are your best bet...


i agree here, also... not saying i would never use solder, just saying that i have not had to yet... when i wire head units, i cut all the wires to equal length and place zip ties before and after the connectors to secure them in bundles that will not be pulled loose... and i have never had to splice something through a door jamb, etc., i either make the connections at the head unit or they are direct cable connections (amp to speaker, etc)...

 
Rep Power: 0

oh yeah, here's the system in my truck, since i finally got around to taking some pictures... 2 S12L7s and a KX1200.1...

 
Rep Power: 312

I just got my kappa perfect yesterday, man this thing is a beast, i can't wait to build my new box, but i have to finish unpacking and i'll post pics of my home system too, 600w onkyo reciever, 2 15s with baffeld 3 ways, pioneer three ways, and pioneer 6.5 components built into the wall bridged for the center channel. Then i have my computer hooked into my hdtv , then pics of the jam room hehehe, i love my house

 
Rep Power: 0

Just finished installing this over the past 2-3 weeks:

Pioneer DEH-P6700MP head unit (should have gotten DEH-7700MP)
Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6.5" components in the front
Infinity Kappa 692.7i 6x9" 2-ways in the rear
Infinity Reference 1040w sub - sealed "truck" box in the trunk
Infinity Reference 5761a (6-channel) amp powering it all (running the sub in bridged mode)

Lessons learned:

With good compenents in the front, there's no reason to even run rear speakers (IMHO).

The 6-channel amp is huge. I wish I would have bought a seperate amp for the fronts and an amp for the sub and placed each under the seats.

In car-audio, as the saying goes "OVERKILL IS GOOD": don't cheap out on the power or speaker wire! I'm running 4 AWG power and 12 AWG speaker and I couldn't be happier (except with maybe 2 AWG power and 10 AWG speaker...)

 
Rep Power: 312

dude, you def get rep for your sig and you setup so far, make it 2 10s i'll rep ya again.

 
Rep Power: 0

haha, dtox is the Infinity version of me and Kicker

 
Rep Power: 0

Here is my system but its not as fancy as the others. I just like it simple and clean.

 
Rep Power: 335

alpine cda-9851
JL tweeters (100 dollar pair)
JL audio 12 w1's 2 of em
JL audio 250/1 amp hey it works for me lol





ill take a pic of the cd player and tweeters 2morrow

 
Rep Power: 277

I'll post pictures after the install, I'm running it all myself and the amp's not done yet.

 
Rep Power: 0

Pioneer DEH-P860MP
Resonant Engineering 12in. SX
Diamond Audio D5 1200.1
3ft^3 ported box tuned to 32hz
Stinger Wiring

 
Rep Power: 277

Edit

 
Rep Power: 274

Car: 2004 Acura EL

Deck: Nakamchi CD400

Front Speakers: Kenwood eXcelon KFC-Xr51p

Rear Speakers: Kenwood eXcelon KFC-X170

Amp: Memphis ClassAB 4-Channel Amp MCA3004

Sound Deadening Everywhere. Yet to Add the Golden touch - Sub.

 
Rep Power: 344

same ol pics...

 
Rep Power: 289

not bad. still need to do mine up but thats next year. moving twice this summer. so i dont hae the space in my car to do a setup.. sadly lol

 
Rep Power: 0

Pioneer Head Unit
Pioneer 12s
Sony Xplod 1200 Watt SE Amp

 
Rep Power: 0

Does the fact that your Pioneer HU is recessed like that cause any problems?

(I've got almost the same HU and when the volume button is extended out it won't fold out all the way because it's recessed like in your pic.)

 
Rep Power: 0

i dont have any probs

 
Rep Power: 0

Here's my friends system we built/installed about a year ago.

 
Rep Power: 0

Pioneer DEH-P80MP
Arc Audio KAR 1000.2T
2005 Alpine Type R 12
2.8 NET @ 32Hz

 
Rep Power: 0

very clean install, love the Civic badge... mine has a custom chrome script that says "Cushman" lol... and the MTX subs sound great... i've installed pairs of Thunder6000 12"s and Thunder8000 15"s in several different systems, and they slam... good job all the way around

 
Rep Power: 312

the pics for what i've been doing instead of building my new sub box are here:
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=246095

 
Rep Power: 0

dude, since when does having a home take precedence over having a system?... geez...

j/k bro, nice place

 
Rep Power: 321

Very nice man, now you need to get back to work on the civic!!! No slacking! lol