Rep Power: 434

yeah it was my first HU install. i shouldve called you or someone to help lol. oh well.

alpine cda-9847. got it on sale at best buy for a good price so i can't complain.

 
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I like the blue buttons
how do you like that deck? Im thinking about getting the same one.

 
Rep Power: 434

absolutely love it. there's so many more features over stock, and the volume **** actually works! haha. i already blew my stock speakers, so i gotta install my other speakers now. kicker ssmb6 for rear midbass (they kind of suck...) and massive audio pk6 2 way components in front (haven't tested yet).

 
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getting subs soon i am guessing

yeah, you could've called, easy job. but sometimes its better to learn on your own.

 
Rep Power: 786

best choice: solder and heat shrink

faster/easier choice: butt connectors

 
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i just twisted the wires together and wrapped about a few wraps of electrical tape starting from the insulation .. but they also have small wire nuts which basically twist the wires together as if u were to twist it with a plier .. but it also keeps it secure and if u want to change decks or anything u can just twist the wire nut counter clockwise .. easy n simple .. but i just twisted n tapped it.. its working fine

 
Rep Power: 434

ok. time to update.

the headunit is awesome. the speakers...not so awesome. i hooked up the kicker SSMB6 (125w max?) to the rear speaker wiring and it just doesn't have any sound coming out of it. well...there is some sound, but it's so weak. i also hooked up the massive audio pk6 (220w max) to the rear speaker wiring cause it was easier to access and those don't sound that great either...

is it time to get an amp?

 
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Yes, you are underpowering those kicker SSMB6 and the massive audio pk6. They are 125w RMS, 250 MAX.

As a consensus from the powers of the ICE Forum..........

1) Get some nice front speakers, preferably components. Amp them.
2) Leave your rears factory and connected to your deck, or disconnect them.
3) Get a sub.

 
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go to circuit city and pickup prepaid harness. It's just plug and play.

 
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Oh wow, where to begin on this thread. Let me start off with don't ever just twist and tape. That is a horrible way to wire a wire harness and leads to more car fires than any other method i have ever seen, minus chevy astrovans which seem to just randomly catch on fire for no reason. Secondly, soldering on a wire harness if done correctly is the best way as it provides the cleanest path for your head units power to get to everything else. Third, high end shops do not use t-taps, they use wire harnesses just like every other shop, even high end car like porsche and lamborghini have wire harnesses for their stereos. Finally, for sheer ease of use, use butt connectors, there is nothing simpler for the common man than stripping some wire and crimping some plastic. The prefered piece is an insulated butt connector instead of a non-insulated due to that whole sparky sparky catch on fire thing. They are easy to find and if you are wiring a harness from a company such as Scosche to something like an Alpine head unit, 18-22 gauge butt connectors work great. If you have any other questions, just give me a holler. Best of luck with the install. And remember kids, only you can prevent car fires, by not stickin your thumb up your butt while you do an install!

 
Rep Power: 434

it's also $13 more expensive than the harness i got