ILLWILL'S Turbo?!?!?
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[hr]Originally posted by: Grey
Oh, greyt = great. Damn, it took me a while to get that. [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
I live in shrewsbury, MA. Massachusetts. It's in my profile...[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Grey
Oh, greyt = great. Damn, it took me a while to get that. [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
I live in shrewsbury, MA. Massachusetts. It's in my profile...[hr]
i guess across the continent isnt very accessable
El Pinche Turbo Mexicano
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Rep Power: 0 i don't know if you've thouth (don't know how to spell) about it, and maibe you have but would it be easier to use a side mount intercooler like the audi engines??? i know they have nothing to do with hondas nut maibe that a way to go.........
DIY King
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From: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, US
Rep Power: 419 JKEEZO: Yeah, across the continent isn't very accessible. Oh well... Could definately use the help though. Well, money more than help. Help would be good too though. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
CivicMexicano: Yeah, that might work, but you want air to flow over it. The faster you go the more air you want to flow over it. A front mount intercooler would be ideal. You could mount one on the side, but the charge pipes would be pretty long. Plus you'de have clearance issues and it would get dirty too. Plus the air wouldn't flow over it as well as with a front mount. I was thinking of having one someone inside the engine bay and I way thinking of cooling it with an electric fan or two. That would work and there would be some advantages to that. One being smaller charge pipes, so less restricted airflow. The other being not blocking the stock cooling system, so the engine stays cooler. I don't know if I could set the fans to work harder with the rpm's? I probably could. Plus that intercooler wouldn't get as dirty. Definately less airflow though than a front mount. Maybe more complex and heavier as well, because of the extra equipment. It's an interesting idea though. I'de have to actually calculate how much heat I could dissipate with that kind of a setup vs. a front mounted setup.
Oh yeah, found out one more thing...
Taken from: Overboost.com: Still Slow?
Here are the makers: Synapse Engineering
Looks like the Missing Link 001 might fit, but I'm not sure...
You can get it here: Synapse Missing Link
Only $69.95. Only, haha! Maybe I can make my own? I'll research this more a little later...
CivicMexicano: Yeah, that might work, but you want air to flow over it. The faster you go the more air you want to flow over it. A front mount intercooler would be ideal. You could mount one on the side, but the charge pipes would be pretty long. Plus you'de have clearance issues and it would get dirty too. Plus the air wouldn't flow over it as well as with a front mount. I was thinking of having one someone inside the engine bay and I way thinking of cooling it with an electric fan or two. That would work and there would be some advantages to that. One being smaller charge pipes, so less restricted airflow. The other being not blocking the stock cooling system, so the engine stays cooler. I don't know if I could set the fans to work harder with the rpm's? I probably could. Plus that intercooler wouldn't get as dirty. Definately less airflow though than a front mount. Maybe more complex and heavier as well, because of the extra equipment. It's an interesting idea though. I'de have to actually calculate how much heat I could dissipate with that kind of a setup vs. a front mounted setup.
Oh yeah, found out one more thing...
Taken from: Overboost.com: Still Slow?
Quote
[hr]Item: Forced Induction on Hondas
If you’re lucky enough to be driving a turbo Honda, you are probably familiar with the technical problems put forth by the MAP sensor in the intake tract. Hondas don’t come with turbos from the factory, and as soon as your MAP sensor sees positive manifold pressure, the ECM will set the CHECK ENGINE light, also known as the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Not only that, the engine will have a severe bog and generally run very poorly. A while back we discovered the Missing Link check valve, which is inserted between the stock MAP sensor and throttle body. It has a spring-and-ball mechanism that allows you to run all practical boost levels on a turbo Honda without making other changes to the engine electronics. If you have a forced induction system like the Jackson Racing supercharger, check valves will not be needed on the MAP sensor since the pressurized air is not blown through the throttle body.[hr]
[hr]Item: Forced Induction on Hondas
If you’re lucky enough to be driving a turbo Honda, you are probably familiar with the technical problems put forth by the MAP sensor in the intake tract. Hondas don’t come with turbos from the factory, and as soon as your MAP sensor sees positive manifold pressure, the ECM will set the CHECK ENGINE light, also known as the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Not only that, the engine will have a severe bog and generally run very poorly. A while back we discovered the Missing Link check valve, which is inserted between the stock MAP sensor and throttle body. It has a spring-and-ball mechanism that allows you to run all practical boost levels on a turbo Honda without making other changes to the engine electronics. If you have a forced induction system like the Jackson Racing supercharger, check valves will not be needed on the MAP sensor since the pressurized air is not blown through the throttle body.[hr]
Looks like the Missing Link 001 might fit, but I'm not sure...
You can get it here: Synapse Missing Link
Only $69.95. Only, haha! Maybe I can make my own? I'll research this more a little later...
The Greatest
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From: NNJ & MA
Rep Power: 0 I know this is random, but i was just reading the posts in this topic, Grey- I go to school over in worcester. I have a friend that lives over in shrewsbury (drives a bright *** yellow '88 wrangler) and my sister lives over in upton. I never see too many nice imports in worcester. Always a lot of riced out ghetto rides that dont look too roadworthy. Although, every once in a while, I'll see a parade of some hot rides goin through downtown
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[hr]Originally posted by: Grey
Only $69.95. Only, haha! Maybe I can make my own? I'll research this more a little later...[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Grey
Only $69.95. Only, haha! Maybe I can make my own? I'll research this more a little later...[hr]
turbo
if you look about halfway down he has a picture of his own "check valves" setup
Quote
[hr]- [$10] MAP Sensor by pass valve
Reason: You will need this to bypass air from the MAP sensor. If the MAP sensor sees boost, it will throw a check engine light code! You can invest in a missing map link for $50. But with this trick that I provide, you will only invest $10 for a homemade sensor by pass.
Where to get: Local fish store. Three brass/plastic "T"s. Three Check valves (Ask anyone in the store, they will show you where this is located at). On average, the Brass "T"'s are $1 each. And the check valves are around $2 each. [hr]
[hr]- [$10] MAP Sensor by pass valve
Reason: You will need this to bypass air from the MAP sensor. If the MAP sensor sees boost, it will throw a check engine light code! You can invest in a missing map link for $50. But with this trick that I provide, you will only invest $10 for a homemade sensor by pass.
Where to get: Local fish store. Three brass/plastic "T"s. Three Check valves (Ask anyone in the store, they will show you where this is located at). On average, the Brass "T"'s are $1 each. And the check valves are around $2 each. [hr]
hope this helps
DIY King
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From: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, US
Rep Power: 419 Thanks for the link. Cool idea, but I don't know if I'll have the same setup as his. No FMU in the engine bay (that's for sure). I'll just spend the $70 and go for a cleaner look.
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[hr]Originally posted by: Grey
Thanks for the link. Cool idea, but I don't know if I'll have the same setup as his. No FMU in the engine bay (that's for sure). I'll just spend the $70 and go for a cleaner look.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Grey
Thanks for the link. Cool idea, but I don't know if I'll have the same setup as his. No FMU in the engine bay (that's for sure). I'll just spend the $70 and go for a cleaner look.[hr]
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From: BC, British Columbia, Canada
Rep Power: 0 Grey,
Back to the turbo manifold...do you plan on making one yourself still?
Arent they made of cast-iron?
You cant use aluminum tubing, there is way too much heat. If you knew someone with a turbo, and worked on their car after it has been driven, you would know theres no way an aluminum manifold will last.
Good luck still. One more question. Our injectors are 78cc's? WTF? You'll need like 180-210 cc injectors man.
Have you found a fpr for the returnless fuel system? or how to make one? cause i want one.
Back to the turbo manifold...do you plan on making one yourself still?
Arent they made of cast-iron?
You cant use aluminum tubing, there is way too much heat. If you knew someone with a turbo, and worked on their car after it has been driven, you would know theres no way an aluminum manifold will last.
Good luck still. One more question. Our injectors are 78cc's? WTF? You'll need like 180-210 cc injectors man.
Have you found a fpr for the returnless fuel system? or how to make one? cause i want one.
DIY King
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From: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, US
Rep Power: 419 Yeah, I will probably make the manifold. The ones for the D16 are too expensive. Like I said, I'm better off buying a welder. I will NOT make it out of aluminum. Too low a melting point, that's for sure. I will look for stainless steel tubing and I will be welding that. If not stainless then high carbon steel and when I'm finished welding I'll coat it with ceramic paint.
Boosted got off the phone with a company that's producing a turbo kit for our cars and they told him that the stock injectors were 78cc's each. HKS said that the stock fuel system is capable of handling 3-4psi for an increase of 30-40 horses. That is what I will be shooting for. I do not want to mess with the fuel system. Yet.
HKS has something called an F-Con unit that they're working on for the 7th gen civic. As far as I know this will solve the fuel system problem for sutom turbo's. Maybe I misunderstood them?
Boosted got off the phone with a company that's producing a turbo kit for our cars and they told him that the stock injectors were 78cc's each. HKS said that the stock fuel system is capable of handling 3-4psi for an increase of 30-40 horses. That is what I will be shooting for. I do not want to mess with the fuel system. Yet.
HKS has something called an F-Con unit that they're working on for the 7th gen civic. As far as I know this will solve the fuel system problem for sutom turbo's. Maybe I misunderstood them?
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