Eyger

I'm assuming that you need to buy a relay, correct? Because....I just got my Autoloc Shaved door "kit"s delivered today...and no relay comes with it.

Weird..... how do I shop for a relay? The one's made by autoloc (or more specifically their sister company "keep it clean") Are like 16 bucks a relay. They have a 40amp one in the accessories section of their webpage associated with the door kit.

I guess the questions it comes down to is, How do I shop for a relay? how much does a good relay cost? And where can I get a good price on one?

electric130

iTrader: (44)

www.partsexpress.com they have some for ~$1.50 each

DeX

Radio Shack
Circuit City
Home Depot maybe

They shouldn't be more than $2.

electric130

iTrader: (44)

doubtful since they're closing their doors.

Eyger

Thanks everyone.

I think I'll just order them, I hope the 40amp is the right rating. It doesn't say anywhere on autolocs website, besides being a recommended accessory.

Anyone got any ideas? maybe I should email autoloc

electric130

iTrader: (44)

i seriously doubt it's more than 3-5 amps. some of the big brake motors i use at work only draw about 4 amps for the brake solenoid. if it drew 30A, then you'd want 10 or 8ga cable. i seriously doubt the wires are that big. you'll be fine with this 30A relay for less than $2.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=330-073

Eyger

Man this is confusing. Autoloc doesn't say anything about what to use, besides:

"To properly your solenoid we recommend running a 10 awg ground wire from the solenoid bracket to the negative side of the battery"

Know what's funny, I asked some similar questions about this oh, about a year ago. And it sucks because I'm just now getting this under way.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4292091

EDIT: I just did "instant chat" with someone at autoloc, and they told me to get this:

http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autol...o?itemid=RELAY

Which is a heavy duty 40amp relay. And he also said to use a 3amp diode. As well as 18gauge wire, "10 for the solenoids"

I went to napa, and they have this relay and harness kit for 16 bucks, does that sound like a good price for the relay and the harness and the connectors? I mean GEEZ, it's like 40 bucks for just the relay by itself from autoloc!

Thanks, I really appreciate it.

electric130

iTrader: (44)

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=070-675 i have 4 of these and 4 30A relays (above) that i have on all my HID's and my 100watt high beams.

10ga is fine for 30A. the relay will be fine too. if you press that "back up button" the diode is protecting the alarm from getting a ground when it normally would provide the ground. so if you have that electronic setup, then yes, use the diode.

also, there's no need to run a 10ga ground cable all the way back to your battery (i said that in the original thread too) if you provide a good chassis ground after going through the door harness (i would not ground to the door metal). this also assumes you have a good ground cable going from the battery to the chassis (upgrade the stock grounds....."Big 3" upgrade).

i watched the video on their site for the shaved door kit and i didn't see anything over roughly 14ga wire. you should be fine with 10ga and a 30A relay.

Eyger

^Sweet man, thanks for your help. Looks like I'm going to have to get some materials together to complete this...

One questions answered, another one arises.

Now I'm wondering which part of the door latch to connect it to.

I think it should be ok to attach the pull wire to the same part as where the metal rod is connect to. (The metal rod that is connect to the door handle on the inside of the cabin.)

electric130

iTrader: (44)

you're on your own there! i got no clue!

Eyger

^Ha ha, yeah. It'll be ok. I'll figure it out. I don't see what difference it makes.

mrplow123456

Not quite sure if this is what you meant or not but the whole point to this kit is to remove your exterior door handles. Therefore where your door latch is located in the door there will be two metal bars coming off of them, one to the exterior handle and the other to the interior handle for you to exit your car. Since you would be removing the exterior you would attach the actuator, I guess is what it comes with, to the metal bar to the exterior handle. I didn't mean to insult your intelligence if you were already going to do that/knew what to do.

If you can get videos of it once you install it that would be great though bc I want to see how much they "pop" open your doors. Good luck on the install and shaving the handles.

mrplow123456

Hey, some extra info about this is they also have kits where they attach between the front part of the door, where it hinges at, and the body to push the door away from the car. These kits are a little more complex but work nicer. Do you have any other info on the kit you have?