Girl_driven

I have a 95 civic ex coupe. Just did an engine swap yesterday from a d16z6 to what I have now (d15b7). The gas mileage is very bad (less than 19 mpg). Inside the oil cap smells like gas. When I stop and put it in 1st, the gas pedal is harder to push (like it's stuck). Map sensor is not hooked up right now because I tried 3 used ones and all 3 sounded like I was pushing the gas pedal to the floor. It idles without it being hooked up around 600. I need some advice on where to start!! Please help!

ezone

Figure out how to get MAP working right first, the rest of the running complaints may all be caused by that.


See if MAP and TPS connectors got swapped

Gas pedal....check if cable got damaged or is bad.

Girl_driven

I switched the MAP and TPS connectors and it idled good but when I pulled off it was like it wasn't getting gas so I switched it back around and did fine without the MAP sensor hooked up.. Can I try to clean the MAP with some carb/brake cleaner? I changed my spark plugs and wires last night and cylinder #3 plug was dripping oil when I took it out.. Plugs were fouled pretty bad.. Do you think the MAP sensor could be my main cause for most of the problems? I filled the gas tank up yesterday, drove 108 miles and on E already! Thank you so much for your help!

ezone

What got swapped?
Engine block and head?
Engine complete?
Complete engine with wiring harness?
Complete engine with harness and computer?

Got codes?
Erase codes, run engine, see if codes repeat? What are they?

MAP and TPS connectors can be swapped and it will still run, the fact it idles better tells me you need to look closer at that.... you need to make sure it has the correct connector plugged into each sensor--by verifying the wire colors for each.

A speed-density fuel injection needs an accurate MAP sensor input so it can respond to loads, if it doesn't have that input it can mis-fuel until the backup sensor strategy compensates. You need to figure out why the computer doesn't like the MAP sensor. Wiring checks, voltage checks, etc. Follow a service manual.


#3 plug dripping oil, did it come from inside the combustion chamber or (more likely) could be a simple leak from the valve cover gasket (plug tube seals) or rocker stand seals. Was the plug wire end soaked in oil too? Was it that way before the swap?


Did this engine run correctly before you swapped it, or do you not know?

ezone

MAP sensor connector wire colors: white, yellow/red, green/white

TPS sensor connector wire colors: yellow/white, red/blue, green/white

Girl_driven

It was the complete engine and trans swap with computer.
The plug wire didn't have oil on it, just the end of the plug was soaked. The sensors are hooked up right by the colors you provided. Maybe bad computer??

ezone

Did it run and drive correctly before it came out of the donor car?

I'd be testing the wiring between the sensor and computer before tossing a ECM at it, unless you just happen to have an ECM laying around to toss at it.
Will it run on the old ECM?

Gotta verify where it came from. If it was running on all 4 cylinders then it probably didn't come from the combustion chamber

Girl_driven

I was told it ran good on the donor car. I tried the old ECM and it was running worse.. The ECM that came with the new engine has been chipped but I don't know if it has anything to do with what's going on..it was running on all 4 cylinders..I'm feeling helpless at this point, ready to pull my hair out lol

Girl_driven

I do not have any codes and my check engine light isn't on..

ezone

Was this chipped ECM originally operating the engine you received, or was it from something completely different?
Any idea what it's 'chipped' to do? (open it up and look, google whatever you find)
Was it modified (chipped) to support a turbo or something? (that might explain why it won't run a stock engine and has issues reading the MAP sensor)

But first verify wiring integrity from the sensor to the ECM. If there's problems with wiring it sure can't work right. Volt-ohm meter and a wire diagram are your friends.