Engine swap from D16Y8?
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From: Lancaster, Pennsylvania
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Engine swap from D16Y8?
My 99 Honda Civic Ex continuously has a misfire. I ran fuel injector cleaner through under my mechanic's recommendation. Weeks later, my check engine light is still on. Now I've gotten the idea of doing an engine swap in to my head. It'd be my first engine build ever. I'm looking for recommendations on what would be the best engine to swap in to my civic and then do repairs on the d16 afterwards myself. Anything would help. I thought it was the pistons having a carbon buildup, my spark plug spacing, or even a leak. Thank you again in advance!
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Re: Engine swap from D16Y8?
My 99 Honda Civic Ex continuously has a misfire. I ran fuel injector cleaner through under my mechanic's recommendation. Weeks later, my check engine light is still on. Now I've gotten the idea of doing an engine swap in to my head. It'd be my first engine build ever. I'm looking for recommendations on what would be the best engine to swap in to my civic and then do repairs on the d16 afterwards myself. Anything would help. I thought it was the pistons having a carbon buildup, my spark plug spacing, or even a leak. Thank you again in advance!
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From: Las Vegas, NV
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how many cylinders is it misfiring on?
As for "best," what are you looking for? Power? Ease of swap? Cheapest to swap?
As for "best," what are you looking for? Power? Ease of swap? Cheapest to swap?
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If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Not really trying to dissuade you from an engine transplant if your heart is set on it, but thinking that proving what the real problem is and maybe doing a valve job (or whatever) to fix it might be good experience for you.
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Rep Power: 511 Re: Engine swap from D16Y8?
To answer your question, easiest and cheapest swap would be an OEM replacement (D16Y8). All you have to buy is the engine and swap it in.. Assuming everything is in good order on that engine, that is.
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There may be several reasons you come up with numbers that appear poor, yet the engine may still be okay (at least fixable) .....Including bad test equipment and less than ideal test methods.
Not really trying to dissuade you from an engine transplant if your heart is set on it, but thinking that proving what the real problem is and maybe doing a valve job (or whatever) to fix it might be good experience for you.
Not really trying to dissuade you from an engine transplant if your heart is set on it, but thinking that proving what the real problem is and maybe doing a valve job (or whatever) to fix it might be good experience for you.
My mechanic recommended the Pistons be changed. He “thinks” there could be carbon buildup on that piston and was givin me an estimate of $500 for the job and wouldn’t even give me a decent timeframe for the job to be completed
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There may be several reasons you come up with numbers that appear poor, yet the engine may still be okay (at least fixable) .....Including bad test equipment and less than ideal test methods.
Not really trying to dissuade you from an engine transplant if your heart is set on it, but thinking that proving what the real problem is and maybe doing a valve job (or whatever) to fix it might be good experience for you.
Not really trying to dissuade you from an engine transplant if your heart is set on it, but thinking that proving what the real problem is and maybe doing a valve job (or whatever) to fix it might be good experience for you.
My mechanic recommended the Pistons be changed. He “thinks” there could be carbon buildup on that piston and was givin me an estimate of $500 for the job and wouldn’t even give me a decent timeframe for the job to be completed
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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^but low compression on one cylinder may be a valve issue.
More testing (instead of guessing) is needed?
He “thinks” there could be
FrankenCivic
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From: Columbus OH
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and carbon build up on the piston surface is an easy clean...wd40 and scotch pads work great...
check the valve adjustment...adjust as needed (always do the adjustment stone cold and adjust to the loose end of the spectrum..they will tighten up on their own...if you go towards the tighter end then you're going to stick some valves open after a while.)...do another compression test...wet and dry...if still causing issues...check your timing marks...awesome way to get misfires is being off a few teeth on the cam...still getting misfires after that...start looking at your ignition system
start free...then go cheap...then look at expensive and weigh your options
Last edited by dcstomp83; Feb 20, 2018 at 10:43 PM.
FrankenCivic
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From: Columbus OH
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it can also show piston ring failure...that's why you do dry and wet. if your dry test shows 130 and your wet test shows 145 then rings MAY be bad....it can also just be a fuel washed cylinder all and the oil sealed it back up
if your compression test shows bad compression...it is a good idea to follow it up with a leak down test to pinpoint where the "compression" is going
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There may be several reasons you come up with numbers that appear poor, yet the engine may still be okay (at least fixable) .....Including bad test equipment and less than ideal test methods.
Not really trying to dissuade you from an engine transplant if your heart is set on it, but thinking that proving what the real problem is and maybe doing a valve job (or whatever) to fix it might be good experience for you.
Not really trying to dissuade you from an engine transplant if your heart is set on it, but thinking that proving what the real problem is and maybe doing a valve job (or whatever) to fix it might be good experience for you.
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From: Lancaster, Pennsylvania
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Is he quoting JUST the piston change for 500?!?!?! A head gasket change will cost you around 1000 on the cheap end...i don't know about your mechanic but i'm not doing a piston change with the engine still in the car sooooo...looking at quite a price
and carbon build up on the piston surface is an easy clean...wd40 and scotch pads work great...
check the valve adjustment...adjust as needed (always do the adjustment stone cold and adjust to the loose end of the spectrum..they will tighten up on their own...if you go towards the tighter end then you're going to stick some valves open after a while.)...do another compression test...wet and dry...if still causing issues...check your timing marks...awesome way to get misfires is being off a few teeth on the cam...still getting misfires after that...start looking at your ignition system
start free...then go cheap...then look at expensive and weigh your options
and carbon build up on the piston surface is an easy clean...wd40 and scotch pads work great...
check the valve adjustment...adjust as needed (always do the adjustment stone cold and adjust to the loose end of the spectrum..they will tighten up on their own...if you go towards the tighter end then you're going to stick some valves open after a while.)...do another compression test...wet and dry...if still causing issues...check your timing marks...awesome way to get misfires is being off a few teeth on the cam...still getting misfires after that...start looking at your ignition system
start free...then go cheap...then look at expensive and weigh your options
FrankenCivic
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 34
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From: Columbus OH
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anyways...you've got your mind made up on the swap so when you start pulling the engine out...you'll see why I had an issue with the guy quoting you 500....
***this is also a good time to ask yourself if you really need that a/c and power steering....i delete mine just for simplicity...and getting all the lines out of my way....permanently.....plus it doesn't get too awful hot up here and my windows work fine...the power steering...at times i miss it...also a great time to determine if you want a b20V-Tec or just a B20...Vtec is a metric F@$# ton more work compared to just a straight B20 swap...not saying it can't be done...I have one...it was a fun build...even more fun car...
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